Search results for:

PM'd you.

In a way. I used to race a 964 Cup car in the Porsche Cup some time ago. It became my forum name on car forums, which became my forum name on bike forums when I switched my interest to cycling. Sold the car some time ago, but the name stuck. That and some trophies is all that remains of my two-decade long car obsession, now more than a decade out of date.

I'm self-employed, but we have an office and I commute to it, and can't claim for those 19km a day. I claim about £500 a year for riding to meetings elsewhere, either from home or from the office.

You can't claim for your commute anyway - whatever your mode of transport. So any increase would only work for work travel elsewhere.

ETA: I was bored, so I got out the level and string and so on...and...yup. 28mm of rake, 75mm of trail. A Columbus Minimal with 45mm of rake will give me 57mm of trail, which is still 1mm more than my S3, so that should be fine, no?

WTF is the standard Pista geometry so odd? A Pre Cursa, with an Alpina track fork, has a trail of 55mm for instance, and normal trail is somewhere between 57 and 60mm on road bikes.

Sometimes the internet is no effing use at all. I think there was a significant geometry change to the Pista in 2012. Everyone talks about the frame (based, I reckon, on the 2007-2011 geo) having a steep 75 degree head angle, but the current charts show 73 degrees; similarly every post talks about a 28mm offset fork (which gives 62mm of trail with a 23mm tyre, as fitted back in the day). But 28mm on 73 degrees with a *25*mm tyre (as fitted now) would give 75mm of trail, which would be mad. So I think the new fork to go with the new geo must have 40mm of offset, but can't find anything to confirm this anywhere. I ask because I fancy changing the fork to something carboniferous (for no reason) but don't want to bugger the handling.

Anybody have any idea? Or do I have to get out bits of string and start measuring?

Thanks all. Will try the suggested shops and then if not I'll come to @Tijmen for help - thanks for the kind offer.

Before I spend hours trying to build a 3D model (something in which I have no experience or skill), does anyone know if there is a source for ALAN top-tube cable guides? If not, has anyone tried to get some printed? If not, does anyone know someone/somewhere that could replicate them from an example piece (which will need work on the model because it's worn)? Pic of offending item:

Dibs on the mount if you're selling it separately. Can collect tomorrow.

Only very tangentially related. I've got a set of Stans ZTR340s in 20/24 hanging about, and was thinking about building a super-light fixed wheelset using either Novatec or Ridea hubs. Assuming I use a half-decent spoke like a Sapim D-Light, and go 2-cross at the rear, does this sound viable or stupid? 80kg rider, no skids ('cos I don't know how yet, and tubeless tyres are expensive anyway), street use only.

I should add that I've done about 4,000km on these rims built up for a road bike, so I know they'll hold up under me, it's whether there's something about hub torque from fixed braking that I don't understand. I wouldn't build a 24h disc-braked wheel, but that's instinct not science and my legs can't stop like discs in any case.

[The tangential point is that ZTR340s are hopelessly prone to deformation after tyre fitment, to the point that I would end up retruing and retensioning them with the tyre fitted. Pacenti SL23s, for example, are 100g heavier and don't have this problem.]

OK, so I've gone for 48x18 for the time being, ss, and will see how I get on before flipping my flop. Next astonishingly dumb question - punctures: I added some chain tugs to make it easier to get the chain tension just so. Now I'm struggling to work out how/if you can remove the rear wheel without undoing the tugs. You can't move it forwards to release the chain, because tugs. You can't unship the chain from the chainring, because chain tension, and you can't pull the wheel out, because chain. I could carry chain pliers and split the chain, but that's stupid. I could carry a 10mm spanner as well as a 15mm and undo the chain tugs, but that seems to miss the point of having them. Just how dim am I being here?

Thanks all. So consensus seems to be to go shorter than I'd considered. Something in the high sixties, maybe a 48x19 to avoid having to change the chainring. Might buy a few different cheap freewheels and see what works, then splurge on proper kit. Back of a fag packet says I need an extra link to go up to an 18, but I should be able to try a 19 after that just by pulling the wheel forward. So 2 x freewheels, 1 x chain to start with, see what happens. I think I'll stay firmly ss until I've found a gear that works for me.

Not a neophyte cyclist - lots of bikes, lots of kms - and I've done some track riding with my club (say 4 hrs). But I've just succumbed to the shiny lure of a Bianchi Pista. Mostly planning to use it for commuting (Muswell Hill to Shoreditch and back) and general getting about town. It comes with 48x16 flip-flop (79"). I can turn that over well enough, but it seems like a big gear to head home with at the end of a long day. So, questions:

What do others use for general riding in not-flat places? 48x18 (70") sounds more sensible to me, but what do I know? That would spin out at 44kph - irrelevant on ss, but presumably fairly knee-taxing on fixed. Is there a religious rule about chainring and cog combinations that I should know, or is it just maths?

Assuming I wanted the same ratio on both sides, is there a huge difference in quality/longevity between Shimano freewheels at £30 and White Industries ones at £90? I'm not going to be doing mega-miles (have far too many bikes to choose from, in all honesty) but will ride in all weathers.

Same question WRT fixed - is it worth spending more than the £6 Wiggle want for a cog, and does the chain brand matter? I did a search and people on here seemed happy with quicklinks in 2008 - is this still true? Not planning to use this actual bike on a track any time soon, and I won't be riding brakeless.

Apols for length and cluelessness.

I'd be interested in the frameset if you split it. PM me if you'd like to discuss pricing.

Where are you based?

Dibs the lot. Will PM.

Done. Tried to give full answers. Have a list of parts I'd like remanufactured if there's a genuine proposal to do so. I suspect some will be quite challenging to do, even without the IP issues. Others (like the effing spring washer needed for the early C-Record RD hanger bolt) will be easy, but who would bother?

PM'd

PM'd re Garmin

So I've picked up a rather lovely Zullo, but it has a lot of chips and scratches. Seeking the wisdom of crowds, where do I take it to be restored to its former glory? North/East/Central London preferred.

Interested in the Record shifters; PM on the way.

I'll take the RD if you'll take £65 for it. Pm'd you.

PM sent re Speedplays and cages.

I'm also interested, and work local to Old Street. Could I have a look at it during the week, please? Will send a PM with contact details.