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Ignoring space/size for a minute, is it more cost effective to (a) buy a new desktop or laptop and (b) buy a complete desktop or spec your own OR spec and build your own? I haven't bought a new PC for... 15 years starting from scratch.

Use case is family computer, but I have no doubt I'll want to game (Cities Skylines etc). Not asking anyone to spec a machine, but just in case it effects the above!

Where are you based? Assume it's collection only?

Looking for slick(ish) tyres in the 35 to 38c range. Ideally regular tubed tyres, but could obviously make tubeless work.

Would need posting!

Second dibs if the above somehow falls through!

Agree with all of that. I was/am just a bit surprised that the roaster sent out coffee that is quite so coarse! But yes, take o board your points, which leads me to think that pre-ground espresso grind is for pressurised baskets...

Does anyone know, typically, whether pre-ground espresso is designed for pressurised baskets? I bought 250g of pre-ground coffee from a v reputable roaster recently, someone I've used lots before. I'm relatively new to espresso and have been worried that my grind at home was too fine and that buying pre-ground (to espresso grind) would give me a much clearer visual reference.

I've tried a range of doses, 16-20g, with consistent tamping pressure, but I'm getting 40g out in 10 seconds. The bottom half of the puck is very dry and the top half is... sandy (pic below).

Could it simply be that the grind is too coarse?

Ah! If you have the second lying around, please do let me know :-)

Is the Hutchinson a singular tyre or pair? Kinda assuming the former...

Ignore me - I'll play it sensible with epicbleedsolutions...

Did the same, with similarly positive(?) results!

I also hopped on this offer and had similar results. Felt like an exceptionally clean cup though? Noticeably so. Seems like it might make a very nice iced coffee?

Tentatively looking at moving on my Principia Rex, which I bought from here about three years ago.

Original sale thread was: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/356524/#comment15643396

All the measurements and info are there, but let me know if you need/want anything else measured. The above photos aren't mine - bike is currently down to F&F.

There's not a lot more to say - the paint is a little more scuffed than pictured, having been my go to bike for the last two years. There's also a little dent or two on the top tube where the bottom of the drops have swing around into the tube, but I've not worried about integrity at all, they are really that small. Again, can photo if wanted!

Only selling because it's a touch too big for me. I'm 178cm and even though it's 'only' a 54.5 TT, I could never get super planted on it. However, it's stiff, fast and is a really nice Rex!

If anyone is interested and wants stripped down photos, please do let me know!

I'm looking for around £180 OR a hydro mini-group (shifters and calipers). Happy to be corrected on price though!

Any chance of postage for the shifters?

Dibs, will PM

Have PM'd

I've tried every conceivable form of bikepacking bag other than the traditional Carradice, which sounds silly I know. Does anyone have a Cadet/Super C Audax and/or any of the other smaller saddle bags going? Ideally need around 11 litres of storage - I forget what this translates to in terms of their models.

Also after 1 or 2x 11 speed hydro shifters, OR some Juintechs.

Prepared to be told I'm over thinking this, but if I wanted to insulate and plasterboard a detached garage, I wouldn't need any for of planning consent, right? It would just be to make the place look 'nicer' and be warmer when working on bikes and tinkering. I don't think it would be a 'habitable space' - it won't be used as a home office etc. It already has electrics and a separate RCD, if that makes any difference?

My issue is that my machine doesn't follow any of the wiring diagrams for my model. Live where neutral should be, terminals labelled differently to the diagram, wires coloured differently to both the diagram and UK standards. It's been a lot of fun...

It's the https://heald.ca/adding-a-diy-pid-to-the-gaggia-classic-pro/ version. Not sure if that helps/hinders?

@rpm agreed. That's been my logic (whether or not I've achieved that technically...)

I have an annoying PID question...

DIY'ing a PID to my Gaggia Baby Millennium and need to piggyback live and neutral wires to power the PID.

I've found the live and neutral mains (with a multimeter no less!) running from the main power outlet which both run to the power switch on the front of the machine. Presumably I can simply piggyback off these connections?

Various guides say to piggyback the live mains at the power switch and the neutral mains at the outlet itself, but this would mean trying to piggyback into a terminal box, which doesn't feel good...

It would be much simpler to tap both live and neutral at the power switch (mainly because there's a lot more room), but is there an obvious circuitry based reason why I shouldn't?

Note - fully aware that people won't want to give electrical advice, this is from a paper based, circuit only perspective!

Is postage a possibility? For the bars in particular...

Sounds good to me on both counts. I'll drop you a PM with my address etc (and @Ptown, do you mind sending me your address when you have a moment?)

Oh! Yes please! I'll PM you, thanks!

I would! Subject to price of course :-)

(and one of you or @FunkFiend being willing to post)

If we could work out a sensible price for the shifters, I'd be interested in buying those from you (or @giofox, if they're happy to facilitate a split).

PM if you're interested.