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Giving my Moser a freshen up but have confused myself with the new cables.

First exhibit A: I stripped the cables off of the bike before moving house and lost the original fittings like a chump. Now none of the jagwire fittings fit in this hole properly. Do I need something specific to go in there?

Secondly, exhibit B,C,D: Does it really matter where they go? I'm used to plain old ferrules and these are all slightly different.

All help would be great.

New fork on its way. Thanks @nutsjesmoar for pointing it out.

I'm going to assume that's a yes, it's a bad idea.

I think I'm just going to leave it as is, I won't notice what colour it is when I'm riding it.

Damn. That's really cool.

That's a great looking fork.

However, in keeping with me being cheap, I've got a set of carbon look forks on their way. Will let me get the bike rolling, and right now that's the priority.

Thanks for the heads up. I actually missed out on a set of NOS Profile forks that Jan was selling over the weekend. Those times you linked to would be perfect, except the headtube on the Davanti is 16.5cm, which is apparently quite long.

And I live in Amsterdam so Utrecht is pretty manageable. Thanks for the offer though.

That was the plan initially, but haven't had any luck finding something that I really like.

On that note, if anyone has a 1" straight blade carbon fork they're looking to sell, let me know.

Is this a bad idea? Or am I better off just giving the fork a light sand and painting it?

Ideally shallow black rims/ black hubs/ silver spokes. But realistically I'll probably end out picking up a set of second hand Miche Pistards or something similar.

This thread is probably a bit premature, but I received the frame today and since I can't start building it I'm going to post photos of it on the internet.

The plan is to build up something that is fun round town, and can also be taken on the occasional big ride. The main problem has been tracking down an appropriate fork, which has been made difficult due to the 1" headtube which is also quite long. I've recently tracked down an old set of carbon Giant OCR forks which are appropriately big, but they will be more of a stop-gap than anything else.

Otherwise the build won't break any new ground, due to me being cheap. Flite/ Sugino Messenger/ quill/ risers should be fun and affordable. Itching to strat riding it essentially.

Will do my best to keep this vaguely updated/ interesting.

So I've bought a rad old track frame. Problem is it has a 16.5cm headtube and I'm having a bad time finding a 1" fork that will fit.

Does anyone have anything out there that could work? Also, the frame is a chunky 90s(?) alloy one, so looking to stay relatively period correct.

Cheers

Pm'd regarding fork also

Is this a bad idea? I've just bought a track frame sans fork and am having a terrible time finding a 1" track fork that will fit. However, I have found a few road forks that would fit the bill, and would be affordable.

Is there going to be much difference other than the fact that the road fork would be drilled? Or do track and road forks have different rake/trail?

Also, the bike is just going to be smashed around town so how aero/stiff it is isn't super important.

Cheers,

PM sent.

I'm looking at building myself a nice town bike, but also want something that I can ride in the meantime.

So what I'm ideally looking for is steel, fixed, with a 57ish tt and the ability to run a 28c tyre front and rear. Budget is 200-300 e. I also realise that I might be pretty optimistic with those requirements, so am also just keen to see what is available.

If someone has a partial build that fits the brief I could be interested in that as well.

I'm based in Amsterdam, but happy to pay postage if people are happy to pack and send.

Cheers,

Looks cool. Pm sent.

The cranks on my pub bike have called it a day and I'm after a replacement.

Length/ tooth count/ condition aren't really important, I just need something that still has some life left in the teeth and isn't stripped.

I'm in Amsterdam, so happy to pick up if local or pay shipping.

Cheers

Photos here: http://www.trademe.co.nz/sports/cycling/road-bikes/large-57cm-over/auction-846668192.htm

I actually live in Amsterdam, was only in Edinburgh for a few days. Butyeah, 100psi 23c tyres were hardly forgiving on those cobbles.

The bike photo is much more representative of what I have to deal with.

Poor quality glamour photo of the Moser.

And yes, they are dx's.

Decided that I need some new tyres after having my (admittedly worn) old bontrager throw me on to the tarmac on a slightly damp corner.

I'm looking at the continental 4 seasons in a 25c. Reviews I've seen are positive, but as I'm pretty new to this I also don't know the alternatives.

Thoughts? Or has this been answered already and I'd be best of looking through this thread?

Recently stolen rat/polo bike. Shown in polo gear, had a 13t fixed cog on the other side.

Proper fun.

Totally missed these replies... I ended out finding someone who didn't mind me making a mess of his workshop and made my own quill seatpost. A 1000km or so later it's still working, which was a nice surprise.

I've recently been doing some light touring around Europe on my Moser and an Apidura saddlebag. It's been working consistently so far, but since getting to London it seems to have lost the plot.

With the saddle bag loaded I found that the saddle was being pulled back over the course of a days riding. This was annoying but bearable, and I could simply reset it at the end of each day. However, the saddle is now moving backwards concerningly easily, even when not loaded. Having a closer look it looks like the top clamp is no longer fitting flush around the rails and is preventing me from tightening it properly.

Now this all wouldn't be a problem if I had a normal seatpost. But I'm not. And the quill seatpost that I have is not going to be replaced easily.

Long story short, does anyone have any tips for stopping the saddle from slipping? I would rather not resort to replacing the entire post with a conventional post, along with the frame modifications that would be required to make it work.

Cheers