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no no no , you've just stuck that in the best bit of a 2763 page thread

Didn't do bad there!

What do you mean, the holes have been filled

Was it valued for insurance purposes?

Yes , in the world of perfection machine sanding walls smooth is standard, as it's a small area definitely give it a rub down first getting rid of the roughness and giving a key. If the wall(s) really can't go ~four-six hours without having condensation on it a summer heatwave would be a better time to do it

I doubted myself, and the internet says I'm wrong, use a primer - could be a pricey bit of wall

Primer won't do much Vs a durable emulsion.
that wall is very cold doubling the drying time without a fan heater directed at it, if that isn't an option, don't slap a load on late in the evening (it'll possibly run).
The wall to the left is a colour so it will look odd, if you know that paint and colour could just be easiest to use that, (but I wouldn't if it's a wilko type)

This is annoying to say, but how easy is it to push the skirt back to the wall (it will spring back to being out), but given it's throughout the house were they just tacked on

Have you tried CT1 on it?

If you're exposing any bare substrate (plaster) I'd prime it first (can use mist, bin but probably best bullseye) if it's bridging the existing work I'd give it a good course key and remove dust*. I've been using brewers premium calk, it does not like large gapes will shrink and 24+ hours semi cure, but it's very good.
*then prime for the hell of it

I've got a bit thing against speedhooks, it's simply the loop of the opposite boot's lase getting hooked in them, annoying at walking pase total fuckup if running - combine with unstable ground or being at height and I'll start to sound like your grandmother to a five year old

Now I feel bad, thats the extreme end, I'm sure it can just be improved ..

In the paradox a smoothly operating very heavy door will do the same damage

With what you've said in the first post the priority would be to get the closures of the doors working as smooth as possible, estimating what'll fix this is a bit of a nightmare from a poorly fitted seal to complete frame misalignment, without that sorted the possible 3-5mm movement I'm operating the doors will never be sealed from the frame... But with it sorted the falling out may stop. A helpful judgement is how are the 'gaps'/cracking on the internal?

40 pound on a 2nd hand mig

NB. I've returned two pairs of shoetrees like these (one - for being more than shite - and the other, from a very reputable company, for not fitting). Snugg good fit from the off is what the money pays for, I've shoved extra cardboard in for the stiffness of heals, there's always the classic newspaper stuffing with a stick to go for

Yeah, so much mugging

few, that was close ,, I'm still getting over the last knife thread fracas

Lovely tape chat, so easily influenced I went and got this little one with a 5mpowerlock, (the tylon ones look worth a go at half the price). despite its christmas cracker appeal it'll go far,,, yep 2meters

Calling artex technical support will get you much further than I can

Steaming (as in wallpaper striper) may work (soften and scrape from underneath) but if you're leaving the underlying substrate in pisspoor state then maybe pull the whole lot down in one for re-bording. Any prolonged overhead work soon becomes frustrating and arduous. Sorry I've no real lived experience. It's pattern condition and area size could have bearing I've a distance memory of chemical application that is covered to soften then scraped away

Someone mentioned burnt sand mastic a while back, I rolled past this short video this morning, it seems ambitious but that's what it is.. https://twitter.com/DarrenMcLean_uk/status/1173503968674222080?s=20&t=Ctj4fmBy1TL8_SsFvgys8Q

That's the gap and I'll live with it

Yes! From about a month ago, it's a nice round/rolling action - and good to be 3mm - I do want to fill the gap at the top of the handle.

You have won everything, and the hamper