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Is any pairing knife really going to hit the biscuit? I have victorinox rose wood (with an ergonomics that I found bonkers wanting to hold it upsidedown for six months) and serrated opinel. When buying a knife for someone smaller - I was given advice of, if you don't have the wrist power smaller knifes are easier to work.. Id always go for a larger knife..
@aggi what do you think about the hooked pairing knife?

stunning door, it'll get there

you no tool there mate!

(edit - single glazed!) aluminium windows.

could be an up hill struggle, trickle vents work well for air flow in very well insulated buildings (I've also known them as an excellent breeding ground for 50+ harlequin ladybirds or spiders). Fixed interior second glazing maybe an effective option to weigh up with all the cruxes

Yeah, odd one that, my weather app was saying the dew point was 15°c the other day I think that's high - warm air meeting anything 15°c will condense. I don't think it should happen on double glazing , my single glazed 100+year sash are covered init

what I pressed to end up here I don't know,

Oh good, Peugeot did get a shout!

Haha, yes, I was using them as a barometer of 'so how much are these?', which seemed to escalate to just how much would someone pay

Taking it back down to a Thursday on a Friday thing

The slipper shoe is a great thing, perfect for the house and good enough to get to the shops for the odd whatnot

I don't for a second doubt the snap-on aren't excellent [or the best] but from a brief look their pliers were £60-£100* , I can't think of anyone who has pliers as daily most used tool.. & you're right 2+ generations of use dose make me think that's alright
.* I think that's $80-$120 usd and don't know how that compares

And don't pay that much for it...
I need a parrot on my shoulder the repeats "don't do that, don't do that" with the occasional 'you don't need that'

Bizarrely they resell a barco scraper - great scraper but fundamental design problem of the head being a soft compound and the screw holding the carbide blade on being hard, easily threaded - grease it

Don't look at the UK snap-on prices

I agree. I'd blow the whole budget on the ceiling and getting a shower to work within the set up

but what about the batteries

^^ I want to withdraw the negativity from this, it just comes from seeing artex ceilings with massive drops and splits in

smallest purchase quantity of xtex for a test patch will sort out how much is needed/ if it works

I think you'll be hard pushed to find anyone who has done this. Is the substrate it's on really worth conserving, time and effort & refinishing Vs pulling the boards and covering down in one and starting again.
There are other options plastering over (but there's only so much weight a ceiling can take) or boarding over and plastering - it's a proper dilemma and can depend on its condition 2005 is a crazy time to artex finish. Those guys spend years training to do it

This is exactly where I got to. Some many many pages back someone had similar-ish issues. You'd think new rubber o rings and silicone grease would be a way forward - but possibly in a different system to yours the generic service kits (with parts I didn't have a clue about) have differing dimensions of ceramic parts (that also wear out)

Doesn't have to be floor specific. what did you want to use?

It's taken a century or so of beating,, all improvement just the surface

It's not your fuck up, you're doing great, sandstone should not be painted.. if the sandstone with PVA on fails it may want to take the whole lot of filler off - so better without it

pva’d

If you reach for that the try 'stabilising solution' instead (PVA isn't permeable) .

Most trim paints are suitable wood and metal, already primed & with no corrosion (most) standard (trim) paints will apply fine over that with a little rub down at 180ish*. Personally I wouldn't be confident to take it from oil (as it looks) to wb paint - don't know why tbh / high wear area
-*to de-gloss / get the hand grease off