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looks good, but I have always been put off Aluminium forks... I came across these other random alu forks, but something seems off - anyone else ordered anything from Airbikes?
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Is the overnighter with the kid(s) or is it just that the bike is repurposed? I wanted to do an overnighter with my 6yo this summer/autumn, but it looks like it might have to wait until next year :(
On my own upcoming project - looking for some forks to go along with this Dekerf frame, if anyone has input on what forks would suit? (Wanted thread here)
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Hi - looking for a rigid fork to go with this DeKerf steel Frame.
Minimum constraints are:- 1 1/8" steerer
- 165mm length steerer
- 100mm width (ie non-boost - though spacers could fix this?)
- 45mm tyre clearance
- under £100
- A-C measurement greater than 380mm
I've resigned myself to not being able to get everything on my wish list, but the desirables are:
- Thru-axle ends
- Disc Compatible (preferably not flat mount)
- Bottle cage mounts
- A-C measurement greater than 430mm
- angular/segmented crown (like original dekerfs)
Cheaper forks that should fit this are the on-one cromo disc fork which is £67.49 new and maybe around £40 used
If you have anything going spare that you think might suit, let me know!
- 1 1/8" steerer
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Rapha XXS blazer reduced 88% plus 20% off with code from £280 to £26:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314105744817?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pVQUe3NlRsa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=6VGTFV-zR7y&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY -
I've pushed them back as far as I can but there's still not enough clearance for the pads... I am obviously doing something wrong but haven't found any videos or anything with close enough detail to see how I should be putting them in (and is it specific to the hope mono mini or is this a general issue?)
Update: this video answered my questions/uncertainty about what was going on:
https://youtu.be/mJahubHxYZ8
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Wasn't keen to pay 150-200 for safety bars on the back of our Kona Ute (like Tern's "monkey bars"), so I opted for a hack from 2 cheap BMX risers and 2 curtain rails.
I cut kerfs in the steel bars at the point I wanted them to bend and then inserted the 25mm curtain rails (ID was only slightly larger than the BMX bar OD). Then attached the bars to the Ute's rack with some Spinaci extenders in the back (not the bars you grip, but the part that attaches them to the drops). In the front it's attached with the U-bolt set from a trail-gator we're no longer using.
Planning to add some other safety/comfort bits and another secure attachment point in the front, but it has done a successful trial run around the corner. Next up will be a cushion and seat back for the last person in the back (currently using the yepp Maxi with 2-yo as the rear backstop but not that happy with how it attaches to the deck).
Total spend: £18.11 + parts bin
Total time: 1-2 hours
Total hackiness: 8/10 -
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I have a DT Swiss R24 Spline wheelset that is very worn, and slightly out of true - I managed to ride about 50km recently with it as is. I would probably just run it into the ground, but I can't manage to fully true the rear wheel (may have rounded over a spoke nipple?) and it was rubbing my frame so I have decided it can't come with in the current house move...
There's pretty significant wear on the break track, as brakes were not properly set up at some point (I got these second-hand), but I am pretty sure they still have life left in them. I won't ask anything for these - I've been a generous recipient of some goodies from other forumengers recently - can throw in the tyres and tubes as well if that helps.
Collection from NW10 by Sunday. DM if interested -
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Definitely not best practice, but with just a 25L electric coffee/tea urn, you can do a 20L batch, which is probably as much as you'll want to bottle (or put in a corny keg). If you are vigilant on watching the temp, you can do mash and boil in the urn pretty easily I find. To make your volume, though you have to top up with sparge water (you could just put your grain bag in that 5L pot you have and cover it with water) and often a couple times through the boil (which means it isn't all being boiled the full amount. This also gives you a bit of control around the gravity as your sparge water will be much lower gravity than the main mash you did in the urn, so you can mix to meet your target gravity.
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Pressure fermentation can also be an option when temp control isn't, but it will limit ester production if you are going for that in a style. I'm far from an expert on it, but I think the pressure fermentation is pretty forgiving (ie don't have to have CO2 and a spunding valve - could just allow the pressure to release at regular intervals so it doesn't become a bomb)
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Looks cool, but sadly beyond budget - would have @M_V build some for me if money was no object!