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Yours and @Scilly.Suffolk 's Sonic Lo Pro projects got me thinking about setting my Roberts up for its intended use and giving TTing a go.

Probably going to go for Nitto RB021 as a base bar, and @osiem.co 's Romet cockpit looked pretty nice with the Nitto Aero bars so I was considering buying yours. However for the reasons above I decided to go for a cheap set of Bio Arms too for now. If I don't get on with them and your Nittos don't sell I might hit you up...

Either way this project is ace, can't wait for more updates. Hope you find that CHCD ring soon

Just realised it is you selling the other set on eBay.

While I like the simplicity/look of the Nittos, the 3Ts can be adjusted both back and forth as well as sideways whereas the Nittos are rigid in that dimension, so the 3Ts offer more ways to get your position right for racing.

PMed re Nitto bullhorns

I think the frame is the issue rather than the levers, would be interesting to see the x-ray of the frame nonetheless!

Could you attach a magnet to your guide wires and use another magnet to guide them through the bend?

Basically a make-shift version of the Park Tool IR1

http://www.parktool.com/product/internal-cable-routing-kit-ir-1

yes, would have made a mask too if I had used another colour

yeah its still glossy because its relatively fresh. Silver would look good I think! I would advise going smaller than 2-4mm (Marker size, that's what I used) if you're going for something other than black as it's quite easy to mess up which you luckily don't really notice with black

@dglshrn Easton EA30 Aero, bit heavy but much aeros ;)

@Uoeno thanks man I like the wide bars on yours!

@nathwilson22 No it didn't, I was going to order decals from Dolan but £25 seemed a bit steep if you add on cost of clearcoat etc. So I just used an Edding 750 paint marker (around £4). The paint will dull a bit with time so it will be nearly the same kind of black as the rest of the frame, the drive side is still relatively fresh in that picture. So far paint has been holding up well but I only use this bike at the velodrome.

Since everyone is posting their Track Champions here is mine

Just tried, all working now. Thank you @yourmumsupset! Exited for this!

Looks great! Just tried getting a ticket but it says promo code not yet valid? PMed you with details

Did I see this in Battersea Park just now? I like the combination of the green bar tape with black frame and tan wall tyres, very nice!

Nice! Very jealous ;) did you get a chcd ring too?

Beautiful! Can't wait for updates on cranks

Thanks for the bars and nice meeting you!

Sheldon Brown, pretty good website for most mechanical questions

http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html

You have a threadless headset so you don't need to read the parts about threaded ones. The picture of all the different parts on top of each other near the bottom of the page is quite instructive

They are rebranded Andel cranks, which retail around £60.

http://www.cyclebasket.com/m9b157s336p2446/ANDEL_RSC7-7172_Track_Chainset_/RS_GB/6282

So you would be paying £40 Hipster Tax.
Perfect example of what @PhilDAS mentioned earlier

Better go with what @hugo7 suggested. £60 with bottom bracket included:

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CSOOTC/on-one-external-bearing-track-crankset

Dibs Newton bars, pmed already

Beautiful! GLWTS

PMed you re phil bb

Deda stems offer good value for money. If you don't already have a BB maybe some look into getting secondhand omniums for cranks. 48x16 might be a bit much on your knees if you're just starting out. If the frame has internal HS bearing cups you could attempt to install the headset yourself but might be better to go to your lbs and ask if you can watch?

Seatpost now sold pending collection

Pick up in SW. I can also deliver within Central. Dibs then PM please.

-Thomson Inline Seatpost, 27.2x410. £SOLD
Very good condition, tiny insertion mark at the very bottom and some very light clamping marks about half way up the post, both pictured.

-Paul Duplex Brake Lever, 22.2mm clamp. Sold
Made for Polo Players. Bought on here for £20, didn't fit my bars and has since been kept in the parts bin. This is the old version without inline barrel adjusters. Pivot can be changed so that you can run it as either left hand or right hand lever as well as for short and long pull brakes. Currently set up for left hand side. A bit beaten up but lever and barrel adjusters work fine.

-Cane Creek Crosstop Lever, 31.8 clamp, right hand, new/unused. £9>8

-Easton EA30 Aero, 31.8 clamp, 42cm c-c, anatomic shape. SOLD Bought off here a month ago and used once at the track, but a bit too wide for me. Some cable marks on the underside as seen on the picture

-Deda Crononero Low Rider, 31.8 clamp, 42 cm outside to outside (Deda sizing) so approximately 40cm c-c. Small scuff on the right end. Sold

-Deda RHM01, 31.8 clamp, 40cm outside to outside so 38cm c-c. Sold Again used twice at the track but not the right shape/too narrow for me. Some cable marks as shown in picture.

-Deda Pista Bars, 42cm outside to outside, 40cm c-c. Sold Bought off ebay but never actually used these myself

-Restrap Diagonal Straps. Sold. Bought these new for my GF's bike but she never used them, so velcro is perfect, just a bit dirty.

There you go. Sorry for crappy pic, I only have a phone camera. Currently saving up to get a proper wheel set for it

I remember reading that this was a common problem with Miche Cranks - Miche BB _Dolan PC, so its not just your Parallax. I have the same setup on my Dolan Track Champion but strangely enough the Miche 107mm BB gave me a 45mm chainline. Now I`m using a Sugino 105mm BB for a 43mm chaninline and spaced my cog out by 1mm.

As other people have said in the Mash thread I would either add another one or two BB spacers or get a wider BB so you are not hitting the chainstays when the crank flexes under power. Perfect chaninline isn't that important but maybe you can space the cog 1mm further out at the same time, that way you still have a perfect chainline