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How much are we talking @snottyotter?
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I'm going to shamelessly steal snottyotter's picture because it shows a dérailleur identical to mine in pretty much the right position to explain the problem. Also, I lack a decent camera currently. Or suitable lighting.
My beloved 1st generation Record dérailleur has developed (or at least, I've just found) a hairline crack. It's on the body, where the hex bolt holding the jockey cage goes. Pretty much the highest point visible on this picture. It goes about 1/2 of the way across, parallel to the bolt (i.e. perpendicular to the plane of the bolt head), starting at the back.
Should I be worried? Is this harmless? -
@snottyotter is that 1st gen record dérailleur for sells? There's a worrying hairline crack in mine (that I found when cleaning off the muck and grime, goodness knows how long it's been there), and I'm curious about how much a replacement would set me back, if it ever came to that.
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Finished!
Now all I have to do is go out and ride it a lot!
As for summer-long, this got finished far more quickly than I had anticipated. Not to worry, I can start on my tandem now!
Oh, and the brake problem was resolved quite easily in the end- I swapped the rear brake for the one on my tourer, which was far longer than it needed. Success. Both bikes brake better now! -
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It took me about 6 days, I think. I used rubbish modern Nitromors to strip the old paint which took 2 of those days. Then I primed it the next day, and put on the first coat the day after that. I realised I'd bought two similar but different colour cans of paint (they were all mixed up on the shelf) so returned one the next day, finished painting the day after that, then put on the decals and lacquered it the day after that.
I did all of this outdoors with the frame on a wire coat hanger hung on a bracket that was on a branch of a tree in my garden. -
Yup, those are the same brakes as on my other Carlton, which is set up as a fixed gear currently... so I suppose I could just take the rear brake from that if I was going to be miserly. That said, I'll probably buy that Dia-Compe.
I figured some of the bigger name frame-painters could have removed it, but I ended up painting this myself. I live in the middle of nowhere when I'm not studying so the cost to actually get the frame to any of them and back again was astronomical (i.e. the total cost would have been more than just buying another frame that didn't need a repaint!).
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The Dia-Compe brake seems like a good compromise. I guess it's that or pick up a cheap used centre-pull like a Weinmann 999 or something.
I don't think there's any other solution- your brake fits so much better!
Sadly, I didn't have them chromed, those are a different set of (NOS) forks without the ugly, useless lamp bracket. -
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The frame is built for 27" wheels, and I'm using 27" wheels. There's just a huge reach on the brakes as the bridge is so high up the frame. I have another Carlton that's near enough identical, and that has a 75mm reach brake on the back, with the blocks set about half-way.
Unfortunately, your brakes are the same reach (57) as the ones I currently have, so they're still too short! The help is much appreciated though! However, I think I may be out of luck with a rear brake from the golden arrow group, I can't find evidence of any above 64mm in reach, and the 57mm brake I have now is at least 10mm too short.
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Okay, so a lot of progress has happened... hopefully I will get round to adding some more pictures that do the frame justice and show the current state of the bike.
Brakes arrived today. The only issue is that the rear brake is miles too short, it doesn't get anywhere near the rim, so it is completely useless to me.
Anidel, how long are the brakes you have? I'm worried that I'm not going to be able to find a golden arrow rear brake that will fit!
To me that new Kryptonite looks like it might be an attempt to solve the problem of the mini being too short to fit around more than just the frame when locking to some of the (absurdly oversized) tubular Sheffield racks out there- this way, the lock goes, perhaps, around seat tube and rack, and the second shackle goes through the rear wheel. That way, you've got everything locked up, but there aren't the gaps you get with a "normal" size lock.