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I guess the new alxe is a 10mm threaded one and there is a load of clearance between it and the bearing. Which is bad, but not terminal. I guess you also put lock nuts on the inside as a "lip" substitute. Which should be fine if they're in the right place. If you haven't, then you've probably got a lot of lateral load on the bearings so they will wear out faster. It is really casual, but I don't see why it wouldn't work ok for a bit. The only (really unlikely) way I can see you killing yourself is if you can get the bearing to disintegrate or walk out of the hub while you're traveling at speed.

Taiwan invented bubble tea.

They do various sizes as they figure that the hole in the frame may become enlarged through wear. If you're just replacing yours for fun, get the smallest one. If your hinge was wobbling, maybe a larger one is required. You can definitely get them from a brompton dealer.

1. Learn Spanish if you don't know it already.
   
2. Otherwise, at least learn the words for today and tomorrow because if you want to buy a train or bus ticket, probably you want it for today or tomorrow.
   
3. Casa Particulares are great.
   
4. Waterproof backpack. When it chucks it down, it really chucks it down.
   

It was a pleasure.

Probably you forgot to use the nut to keep the tool on.

1. Put tool against freewheel
   
2. screw on nut so tool isn't going anywhere.
   
3. apply incredible force with 12 inch adjustable and maybe foot.
   
4. profit.
   

A clicking freewheel is a super safety feature, being a great non-verbal way to communicate to pedestrians.

If you have a grinder, there is nothing more fun than cutting a old freewheel and freeing all the tiny ball bearings from their circular metal prison.

This one isn't bad if you have a 1/8 chain.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DNP-BIKE-BICYCLE-FREEWHEEL-16T-TOOTH-SINGLE-SPEED-FIXIE-NEW-FREE-P-P/262927362917?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Cheap freewheels aren't sealed so crap gets into them and they die sooner or later.

Using your foot has the advantage that you can hold the wheel with two hands and apply a lot more force. It doesn't look very elegant, so maybe best not done in public.

If you can't find a vice, and you have a nice portable angle grinder with a few batteries, you could take everything to one of those old unused rusting metal ships moored alongside the smelly river, cut the correct width slot in the hull and use it to hold the freewheel tool whilst you turn the wheel.

I presume you're using one of the track nuts to hold the removal tool to the wheel which is still encumbered with inflated tyre, then using a 12 inch adjustable (or equivalent) and pushing it down with your foot (on which you have a shoe)? Whilst holding the wheel with your hands, maybe with a wall stopping it moving forward?

If that doesn't work then you need a serious bench vice connected to a serious bench.

Exactly.
The position of the crank is fixed by the position of the NDS cup (or more specifically the position of the GXP converter bushing). The Drive side cup and spacers could be replaced with cheese and it still would not affect the position of the crank. That is until you try to pedal, then the lack of support provided by the cheese compared to a proper bearing would beome evident.

You don't actually need to use the 1mm spacers. Without them, the drive side crank is just hanging out of the drive side cup a bit.

The hope GXP adapter installation instructions are here...
http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/B.BracketTruvativ.pdf

The BB installation for road is here
http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/RoadBBinstructions.pdf

There are more hope instuctions here
http://www.hopetech.com/product/threaded/#tech

I assume you bought the Road Series hope bb.

If you've understood how holowtech cranks work it can be a bit of a leap to understanding GXP as the design is completely different.

For that crank on a 68mm BB shell, you should be using 2x 1mm spacers, I think. The 2.5mm spacers are if you want to use a MTB crank on a 68mm shell BB.

If the crank is (still) hitting the frame, you might be able to fix it by putting both (1mm) spacers on the drive side. By moving the non drive side in 1mm, you would get 1mm more. If that isn't enough, then you're screwed (or into soem serious engineering), but if the crank was ok before, it should be ok.

You probably haven't deformed the splines on the crank as they are steel of the highest quality.

There should be no side load on the bearings in GXP bb - the drive side bearing should not be pressing against the crank at all. By using 2.5mm spacers, you've got the axle attempting to squeese the bearings together, and that is wrong. The axle should be clamping to the NDS bearing AND THAT IS ALL!

Installing the GXP adapter bushings can be a bit of a hassle. Personally, I install the bushings before putting the NDS bottom bracket in the bike. If you use the crank to compress everything together, is fairly easy.

The hope bb attempts to keep dirt away from the bearing with the plastic thingies which have their own channel to run round in (which is quite a nice design, IMO). When they are new, the plastic rubs on the channel a bit. After a while, the plastic wears and everything spins more freely

Dibs Dibs dibs...

GXP axle clamps to the bearing in the NDS, leaving the drive side totally free and the bearings with no side load. Holotech preloads the bearings a little bit. Some holotech bottom brackets (like hope) come with adapters for the NDS, to take the bearing diameter down to 22m so a GXP axle can be used.

What happens when you pedal backwards?

In HCM, get on the back of a moped during rush hour. It is the only thing I remember doing there.

If you go to Hoi An and you have a favourite piece of clothing you would like to have another of, they can make copies for you. The town itself is quite touristy in the finest Luang Prabang tradition.

Crummy bearings tend not to last as long as quality ones.

It is worth taking a quick look to determine the cause of the movement. If it is the (presumably) cartridge bearing, changing them would be more expedient than rebuilding the wheel.

What is wierd is that I'd think it is quite hard to build a wheel and not notice the hub bearing is loose. It is going to be as obvious in a trueing stand as when you put it on a bike. So the hub vendor might question their paying for a rebuild on that basis.

If you're the short of person that likes two have one or fewer brakes on their bike, then a one bolt effective stem clamp solution should fit in well with your personal risk profile. Otherwise not.

It depends on the mass on the back. The bending moment on the frame tube will be quite big and may either dent the tube, or buckle it. Woudn't do that to a bike I liked.

Tools in hand luggage is a lottery. In japan, tools were ok, as long as they were below a certain dimension. In korea they were not ok. Heathrow, they were ok, but required talking to the security people for a non-zero length of time. I assume the concern is that furnished with tools, a passenger might attempt to dissasemble their aircraft en-route. Tools now get sellotaped to the bike.

https://www.gov.uk/hand-luggage-restrictions/work-tools

There are fast ferries and slow ferries. The fast ones are faster, but you're enclosed, the view is rubbish and they are more expensive. The slow ones are slower, cheaper and have more character, and the view is super.

George Clooney has a house on the shore somewhere.

Um, grinder? But how did you get it in?

Unlikely to be chainline problem. Maybe requires lubrication. More likely to be that the sprockets and chain are not sufficiently intimate with each other. If they were all new, I'd say it would settle down as they start wear in the useful phase of their existence. If they are worn, then maybe they will settle down, or maybe not. Especially if the rear cog is very worn.