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No, nor me - sorry. I thought the sword logo was familiar, but it wasn't what I thought it was.

https://www.fouriers-bike.com/en/BRAKE-SYSTEM/40432796.html ?

Would an 56cm aluminium Cannondale Synapse Disc from 2014 be of any interest? I have frame, forks, headset, seat post (25.4mm), BB, and cranks available. Takes 30mm tyres and guards, just. Post mount brakes.

Located just north of Bristol.

If it's just for mucking about with STL files I'd try a free account with Onshape before spending thousands on a new computer.

Fusion 360 is good and is well supported online. There are a few free alternatives worth considering - Onshape runs in a browser so will work on any old hardware, and Solid Edge Community Edition is good if you're looking for a package that will run without an internet connection.

Ergotec make some models that might suit. I particularly like the name Spacebugel https://www.ergotec.de/en/products/lenker/sub/city-trekking-lenker/produkt/spacebugel-25-4.html

Nitto make a few: North Road, Dove, Albatross. Soma make a couple of different shapes that might work too. Try Rivendell or Hubjub.

I have one that I discovered in a box the other day. Will check the battery...

I thought it looked familiar - google image search says it belongs to Mike Curiak. IIRC he's had more than one Lenz and has written about them a lot over on lacemine29 and MTBR.

It's a Lenz Milk Money

Interested, PMed

I've been looking for the geometry for the Montebello. Has it been released yet?

Yes, being the same colour will do that

Ooh, my lad would love the 501st. Yes please!

Good to know, thanks.

I'm going to trial three methods for priming and shading the armour this weekend with him: white prime, black prime with white zenithal and black prime with grey/white dry brush - all followed by black contrast paint.

I think the zenithal will be best, as I can do the spraying for him then he can focus on the details

He likes the weapons and details silver, so they're easy enough to do after the speedpaint.

Edit: actually might be better to do all the base coats for the red armour and silver weapons before the contrast paint, then there's less risk of the paint reactivating.

My eldest has painted himself into a corner though. He's painting Flesh Tearer space marines, with lots of black armour and fiddly detail. I need to help him come up with an easier way to paint the armour so he can progress quicker, otherwise he loses interest.

Thanks!

Totally agree about the contrast/speedpaints - and they work really well on the Tyranids too because there's loads of texture to develop light and shade, and they're not so detailed that you need lots of different colours.

Thank you, all of you. He's been very patient doing them and has taken loads of inspiration from various YouTubers. He's very pleased with them, but there are still over 40 more to do, including the big ones.

Proud dad moment - my 8 year old has just finished his first batch of Tyranids from the Leviathan box. Mostly Army Painter speedpaints with a bit of Citadel technical and layer paint on the bases.

Search for 'O Ring Cord' but check chemical compatibility of whatever material you pick depending on the fluids you're sealing against. Probably nitrile/NBR/HNBR for engine oil but silicone and Viton/FKM may be ok too. If you need to make a continuous loop you can superglue the cut ends together.

The thickness of the material should be more than the depth of the groove by 20-30% but it depends on o ring material hardness and the stiffness/fixing arrangement of the cover.

Is it really though? No front mudflap, ratty bar tape, ergostem, tanwalls, Klampers, wheel decals, BDHU, enough luggage to ride for a weekend but only one bottle...

It's nice enough but could be so much better.

No problem. Hope you get it fixed.

@rogerzilla may be able to help. You'll probably have more luck contacting him over on yacf.