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It was never for sale (well not since Hilary Stone sold it to me anyway) and it never will be; it is a thing of joy, except when I'm time-trialling on it, when it becomes an instrument of torture.

I was on the track (Derby) last night and noticed at least a couple of people had 5mm showing either side. It was a club session but maybe a bit showing is generally acceptable.

I cut and filed mine back rather than risk being told I couldn't ride; they're Miche hubs but on a very second hand and mistreated track bike.

If it's your first TT then do it on your road bike, no point spending money on something you might hate.

I can't, but with the right machine, welding rods and skill set, someone could.

TIG is the only welding process I know of used for bike frames currently. Brass brazing doesn't actually weld, it sticks the tubes together without melting the base metal

There was an arc welding system used briefly after the war (I think) that didn't use any filler material, the tubes were pushed together at high pressure and then a high current was passed through them that fused them together at the joints. It never really caught on, I'm guessing the tooling was not versatile enough for the bike industry.

TIG I would guess, I don't know. Problem with MIG is you're melting mild steel wire into a chromoly tube (well one of the problems), with TIG you can choose a more compatible filler material.

There's a reason none of the manufacturers turned to MIG despite it's simplicity, it's not suitable for thin walled steel tubes especially when the're posh tempered chromoly.

In which case the ones in my link won't work, the ones you need are about 2.5mm, best scavved from a worn out cassette; match the speeds and manufacturer of donor cassette though as there's likely to be variation in depth.

1. Yes
   
2. These, http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-cs-hg-1mm-sprocket-spacer/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360390269&kpid=5360390269&utm_source=google&utm_term&utm_campaign=UK_PLA_Components&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mckv%7csy76aWlwL_dc%7cmcrid%7c67090789502%7cmkw%7c%7cmmt%7c%7cmrd%7c5360390269uk%7cmslid%7c%7c&mkwid=sy76aWlwL_dc&pcrid=67090789502&prd=5360390269uk&pgrid=17507338502&ptaid=pla-128000857982 ?
   

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It is indeed, the possibilities appear to be almost unlimited.

It specifically states in the manual that it's not a toy, however it does ruin this assertion by referring to it as a toy in the next section.

My new lathe, recently donated by my mother-in-law's chap; 50p for scale and current market value.

test again

Really, really good; I love the badge.

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There's a plenary indulgence for riding that one round the track!

Thanks.

Has anyone got a recommend on an affordable, versatile TIG machine (postman affordable rather than pro-footballer affordable).

About 1/2 inch. There is the langster pro which has proper track geometry but they're pricey

Looks great, chapeau; how flat is the final coat, does the clear coat smooth out the crackle texture?

I've collected the bike.
Here are the regs for Derby velodrome:

The specifications required for Derby Arena’s track are:

• only purpose made track bikes may be ridden on the velodrome track
  
• the bike must be in good condition and undamaged
  
• the bike must be the correct size for the rider
  
• a fixed wheel drivetrain
  
• 165mm (170mm for pursuit) cranks with 280mm (11”) or greater bottom bracket height (measured from floor to centre of bottom bracket)
  
• the frame must not have braze-ons or extraneous fittings
  
• the frame must have track ends
  
• tyres/tubulars must be in good condition
  
• tyres/tubulars must be 21-25mm wide
  
• tyres/tubulars must not have coloured tread
  
• tyres/tubulars must be cleaned before entering the track
  
• no dual compounds are permitted
  
• tyres/tubulars must be correctly inflated to the manufacturer’s specifications
  
• tubulars must be correctly glued and not taped
  
• new tyres/tubulars must be cleaned with white vinegar or isopropyl alcohol prior to use on the track
  
• the wheels must be of the same size front and rear
  
• the wheels must be spoked (not disc) for all taster and accreditation sessions
  
• the handlebars must be drop bars and have bar tape/grips and bar-ends (aerobars are permitted only in specific sessions)
  
• brake levers or callipers must not be fitted
  
• spare sprockets must not be fitted to double sided hubs
  
• quick release wheel axles are not permitted
  
• wheel axles should not extend beyond the track nuts
  
• mandatory gearing for all riders on taster sessions - 84” (47x15 or 50x16)
  
• the chain tension should be tight enough to avoid derailing but not so tight it ‘binds’ the drivetrain
  
• chain, sprocket and chainring should not be excessively worn
  
• devices such as bike computers or digital displays must not be visible to the rider whilst riding.
  
  

The Langster fails on a few points but most critically it has insufficient BB height, so it looks like I'll have to continue renting one of their clanky monsters for the foreseeable future.

That is excellent news, cheers.