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Just bumping my question a bit. What size rim tape do I need for the Mach1 rims? I am planning to purchase Velox tape, comes in 13,16,19, and 22.

Bump, reduced prices. Open to offers as well.

maybe... i also struggled with the stem, I scratched up the handlebars something fierce getting them out (near the clamp area), but they looked perfect before I took them out.

That sort of stuff leads me to believe I'm doing something wrong... just like this seat post bolt. There must be a proper way to tighten it that I'm missing.

Both chains come with spring clip master links

Stainless steel in wet contact with aluminium can cause faster galvanic corrosion of the aluminium than would be the case with Nickel free steels, and Zinc (galvanised) is even kinder to aluminium than plain steel.
http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=89

It's only really a problem if your drive train stays wet for a long time, e.g. outdoor storage. Road salt added to the mix will make matters worse in all cases.

Guess that settles it, I'm getting the chain you recommended. You seem knowledgable, the chain is cheap, and it's rust proof. Can't really ask for more.

Cheers! You saved me around 9 quid from my original plan (the izumi)

Just confirming, this one right? http://www.wiggle.co.uk/wippermann-bmxtrack-1z1-anti-rust-single-speed-chain/

I found randos a bit shit, not a great ride, heavy and slow.

They are pretty durable though, my recommendation is to spend a little more money and buy the scwalbe durano(plus).

I'm also not sure if my frame can take anything above a 23c tyre... how are gatorskins? Any difference between ultra and normal? (on wiggle, ultra is cheaper).

I'll have a look at the schwalbe durano's too, are they generally good because of their durability? or because of their ride?

Bushed chains are less flexible from side to side, so they are worse for dérailleurs but better for singlespeed. Bushed chains should last longer, because the pin load is spread over a greater area.

Not much to choose between galvanised and stainless, since both will die from wear before the corrosion gets them. Stainless is a bit more expensive, and potentially worse for any aluminium components in wet contact with the chain, i.e. your chainring, but again it's a marginal matter. In my experience, nothing runs quieter than galvanised chain, not sure why but I hypothesise the soft Zinc absorbs vibration which stiffer Nickel coating doesn't; whatever the reason, galvanised chains are excellent for creeping up on people :-)

If you want me to tell you what ⅛" chain to run on a daily driver, it's Wippermann 1Z1. Half my bikes have that or the 3/32" equivalent 7Z1.

Hmm, was about to purchase the inox chain, but that wipperman 1z1 is much cheaper...

Do both these chains include that special link, where you can remove the link with a flat head screwdriver? That's an important factor for me as well... since I hate using chain tools more than once per chain (I always mess it up).

Why can SS damage aluminium parts when it's wet?... I imagine it's because it's harder, but why only when it's wet?

Yep, it has PATENT CAMPAGNOLO (in caps) written (circularly) around both sides.

When I got the bike, it was very secure. held the seat post in place, despite me running over a few pot holes on my way home.

This was a week ago, and I've only just loosened the bolt now, but I have no idea how it was tightened in the first place... :S

Thanks for that, had no idea stainless steel chains existed.

So i'm leaning more towards that one now, but what advantage would bushing chains give me? I tried to have a quick read on sheldon brown, but tbh, it went way over my head (i can't tell if bushing = good of bushingless = good).

Also, which is better (for rust proofing a chain), galvanising it? or just using stainless steel? Any disadvantages to using stainless?

Guess I'll definitely steer clear of the izumi though, thanks for the heads up on that.

Take a look at the seat lug and the female half of the bolt.

The hole in the seat lug where the bolt goes has a slot cut into it on one side. The female half of the bolt has a small bit of metal that engages the slot on the lug and stops it turning as you tighten up the other side.

That's how it's supposed to work. If your frame doesn't have the slot, and the female end doesn't have the bit of metal, then you need a new bolt with Allen key access on both halves.

Hope I've made it clear.

The seat lug definitely has a hole, but the bolt does not. The campagnolo seat bolts just seem to be flush on both sides, one takes an allen key, the other doesn't.

Anybody else have a campagnolo branded seat bolt? Is this the case with yours as well? If so, do you use a special tool to extract the bolt?

I was recently in the USA, and I was told to only use Vittoria Randonneur by a few people. Their reasoning was: "Mash and macaframa only use these tyres".

Any reason why I shouldn't trust what they were saying? I did my research, and it does appear that MASH use randonneur tyres, but that doesn't mean they're best for London roads (nor are they necessarily durable).

Any other recommendations for around 20 quid a tyre? i'll mainly be riding around London. With a brake. I've only been in London 3 weeks, but I imagine I'll need something suitable for wet weather...

In the past, I've used KMC chains (can't remember which one), without any issues, but I only used them for a few months.

I've been hearing good things about Izumi though.

Which chain should I get, for general commuting around London? My only requirement is that it is 1/8" and silver. Any suggestions?

Would the Izumi be better or worse than KMC for this use?

I was looking into that, but what's actually wrong with my one? They must've made it that way to work somehow... maybe with a special tool?

Anyway, happy to get a new one, but if anybody knows how this one is supposed to work, I'd like to know. It feels like solving a riddle at the moment.

Just edited, not willing to ship. Pickup only in London area.

You posted links to two different types!!!.
Is £3.50 really too much to pay.

They're the same thing, just differently designed. Both do the same thing.

3.50 isn't too much to pay, but for something so common and trivial, I figure it's worth seeing if anybody has one to spare.

I'm after a brake lever barrel adjuster.

If anybody has one spare, lying around, please let me know.

Examples:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-Brake-Lever-Adjuster-Adjusting-Barrel-Screw-M10-10mm-MTB-Bicycle-Bike-/370876055975?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item5659ef81a7

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jagwire-Brake-Lever-Cable-Adjusting-Barrel-Adjuster-M7-MTB-Bicycle-Bike-/360432306305?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item53eb708881

Cheers.

For sale are a few random items:

Update: Campagnolo seat binder bolt. Found out this doesn't suit my frame, so I'm wanting to sell it on. Still in perfectly working condition. Suits an italian style steel frame (no notch, as found on british frames). Basically the seat lug needs a taper to accept this binder bolt.

Haven't taken pictures yet, but looks like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=141040599803

I'm selling mine for 10 pounds.

Brake cable & housing (nipple end): 1 pound

Kalin seatpost (27.2 size): SOLD

Look pedals, one side appears to be broken or something. See images, because I have no idea how clipless works: 3 pound

Shimano 600 drop/hood brake levers: SOLD

Any questions, let me know :)

Edit: Pickup only in London area. Near Baker Street station

Doesn't it have Allen key access from both sides? Both mine do.

On mine, one side of the seat post bolt has a bite area to grip onto the frame, the other has the washer.

Nope, mine has allen key access to one side, and the other side is just a hole with threads inside...

It does have the bite area to grip onto the frame, this is on the side with female threads. The side with male threads is the one which has allen key access (and no washer).

I've got a campagnolo seat post bolt, and I recently took it off my steel frame, but with a bit of difficulty.

The problem was, when loosening it (with an allen key), the other side of the bolt kept turning, so it didn't actually loosen (the whole bolt turned as one).

I'm tentative about putting this back on, because I don't think I'll be able to tighten it correctly, and may damage my frame in the process.

Is there a tool I should be using to grip/hold the other side of the bolt whilst loosening?

Also, I have no washer. I've seen images online with washers. Will this be a problem at all? Should I buy a new washer, and if so, does it matter what material or size it is?

Still haven't put proofide on mine yet.

havent 'ridden it yet either. still piecing my bike together.

Do you apply product to the top of the saddle? I thought it was only underneath. But I've heard different recommendations online.

Does the mini pump have a gauge?

I'm about to purchase some rim tape to put on the Mach1 rims.

What size Velox cloth tape should I get? (Options are 13, 16, 19, 22).

Cheers!

Interested in the brooks. PM incoming.

Never mind

what size are the seatposts?

I'm after:

• seatpost of size 27.2, 300mm or lower (silver preferred)
  
• 1" quill stem clamp size 25.4 (silver preferred)
  
• Track drop bars (Nitto 123 or similar). Willing to trade a Cinelli Criterium drop bar.
  
  

Items i'm thinking of purchasing are:
Kalloy Uno seatpost (12 pounds)
Zenith stem (22 pounds)
Nitto b123 track drops (steel) (30 pounds).

Doesn't have to be these, but these are the ones I'm looking at now. Anything similar is fine.

If you can do better than those prices, please PM me. If second hand/used condition, I'd prefer to pay half or less than retail price.