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Thanks again guys.

Christ, that looks like a ball ache. I'm going to use tape but with the broom technique.

Thank you guys. Great advice. I'm going to go for it and try it.

I have a lovely pair of Miche Pistard wheels that accept only tubular tyres so it is time for me to dive in.... they are 700c.

Can anybody advise on:

Glue?
Fitting?
Rim tape?
Good cheap tyre choice?
Puncture resistance?

Thanks.

Dibs on the saddle and brakes please. PM'ing now....

BARGAIN!!

Too small for me alas...

dibs on quill stem unless it has gone with the bars?

Both now gone.

Got it, it's yours!

Bump bump. Must go by end of week or in the bin.

Dibs. Pm incoming..

I might try that if it doesn't sell.....

Definitely Campionissimo from 1981. I gave Mercian the frame number and they tracked it down. But the Campionissimo could be specced quite liberally so perhaps the pump pegs were something you could specify? It was a touring model after all....

The hubs are nice vintage campagnolo.

Yes, sorry. Should have edited that - SEAT POST is stuck. I've removed stuck ones before but I didn't want to rush it on this. It's the classic aluminium post on steel frame.

Couple of very much entry level front wheels here. In used but good condition. No dings or dents and just brake wear on the rims. One missing QR nut and one missing full QR skewer.

Shimano RS 622x15-18. Clincher
Vuelta VXC 2.4. 622x19 printed on rim wall

Both seem to be in good straight order with truing required. Spokes present and correct.

Pick-up from W14 9BB for £0.

Bump bump and price drop to £200?

Dibs on the pedals and chain. pm'ing...

Evening all, just flagging up my Mercian for sale. Have a great weekend!

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/390409/#comment17133755

Only because I sent offers to the people who are watching. But you're right, I just checked the rules. deleting now.......

Yep, deleting that tomorrow.

Pics....

SOLD.

Lovely Mercian Campionissimo, 1981. Frame number 38 built that year. Frame number 03881. Handbuilt 531 Reynolds steel.

Paintwork is done at home but well. It is Spray.Bike which is amazing stuff - it is marketed as a powdercoat in a can and it really feels like it. Comes out thick and matt with no runs. Then there is a gold fleck clear topcoat, it looks great! The lugwork is red and I didn't do it that well. But the bike comes with colour, gold fleck and lugwork pen to do touch-ups if needs be. Original decals from Mercian which are then clear coated on top.

Siltech gel saddle. Sakae SR Custom Track drop bars. Dia-Compe gold tech brake lever. Tektro calipers on the front only. Original Mercian headset. Original lamp bracket on fork.

Wheels.
Front. Tubular tyre on vintage Super Champion Competition rim with Campagnolo hub. QR
Rear. New tubular tyre on vintage Super Champion Competition rim with Campagnolo hub. Unknown cassette. QR

Superlight Crankset, Campagnolo chainring (52t). New Shimano BB.

One problem: bloody aluminium seatpost is stuck in the steel frame. I don't care because it is the right height for me (I'm 6'1"). I recently drilled out a post from a Fuji frame but I didn't want to do it to this.

Frame measures 56cm from seat post to BB. Can't understate how wonderful this is to ride. Stiff but with a tiny bit of 'give' in the frame, comfortable and fast.

Looking for £250. NOW £200

In in West London (W14 9BB) and could deliver reasonably locally.

Hey Owl, dibs on the wheels, bar and stem please! Dm'ing now.

Sorry, went away and missed all of that!

So. The second stuck seat post of my life. The first one took caustic soda and a lot of hard work and it still didn't budge. I scrapped it.

I picked up this Fuji Feather frame (thanks @Benzo) that I think had been tried by two others. The alu seat post was cut down to the frame and there were the usual marks of effort - hacksaw cuts and bent steel frame etc.

I decided to try a drill out method. I did a stepped HSS drill bit in my SDS drill first to create an inverted pyramid and give me something to work with. (image 1).

Then I went at it with drill bits for drilling piping holes for plumbers. First the 25mm one which cleaned it out good and proper (images 2 and 3) before moving onto the 18mm one to clean out bits and bobs (image 4).

After this the whole post (or what was left) started to rotate and I was able to grab it with long nose pliers and with a bit of oil and a lot of effort I could pull it out.

Success! (images 5 & 6).

Now building up the Flyer.