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interestingly, even chains on turbo bikes get black, suggesting it is not the dirt from the road…

probably down to how the ERD is measured… some include the all length of a 12 mm nipple, some only include a 10 mm portion of it. I belong to the latter camp, so my measured ERD could be up to 4 mm shorter than others. Thing is, using my method I already tend to get spoke which use all the thread available, so I don’t know how others using the other method can avoid having spokes which are too long

just checked some numbers from an old build and front was definitively 290 mm, rear was 288/290, but of course rear hubs come in all sort of flange sizes… front tend to be much of a muchness, especially on a crossed spoke pattern

agree, but their point is that those rims should be built with those nipples… i didnt use them because they dont work with a conventional spoke key

The squorx nipples by DT need different spoke length, as i understand, so that is built in the ERD for convenience. i am not sure this is the case for DT 460 though. Pretty sure it is for the 511, as they came with those nipples when I ordered them

592 is about right if you use conventional nipples, as opposed to the Torx ones, or whatever they are called.
I havent calculated, but the spokes seem a tiny bit short for a 32 3 cross. I seem to recall that Archetype, same ERD used to build front at 290 with most hubs… but then again, been a long time…

I suggest you give up the project and sell it to me… that would be perfect as Hill Climb bike for next season…

Same as Chris King

Bitex are excellent value for money…

A noisy freehub is a good freehub. The noise is a direct correlation to the pawl springs... typically, quiet hubs have cheap and nasty springs that don't last. All the expensive quality stuff tend to be noisy (Calvin Klein, Hope, DT Swiss etc... )

Kinlin….

First forward of the valve, so to the right if the valve is at the top is NDS. Normally you start with the hole on the left, if the valve is at the top and that is DS. Killing rims are normally drilled that way… you didn’t buy a rim for 2:1 triplet lacing, by any chance? They only come in 24 holes.
Head in or head out in a crossed pattern makes no difference, some build the two sides in the same way, some don’t.

Don't believe the hype... there aren't 20 Watts to be had for going a few cm deeper on the rim. Those figures are extracted at the best possible yew angle, which obviously never happens in real life, let alone in a TT.
If you have money to waste, by all means, get the best possible equipment, but if not, then invest wisely and wheels would be at the very bottom of my wish list.
A good winter of Pilates might give you core strength and flexibility, necessary to hold a good aero position for the hour or so needed at the National Road Bike champs (should be around 25 miles, give or take). That is worth some serious Watts. I find that without the help of tribars, I can hold a good position with flat back and head tucked in for a couple of minutes only, before I need to change it... so long way to go here... maybe you can do better

Yes, should be 65 at the National... basically the Zipp 404 or shallower.

The most effort anyone ever made to get to Coventry?

Nice place to live... I like Somerset, lots of good cycling

Ha... the best maintained roads in the country in Herefordshire, ideal in winter... :-D

Indeed, the risk is to get a bigger patch than you bargained for... stay safe

If anyone wants to do something different and indoor... I did it last year and it was less gruesome than the Festive 500... probably just as many calories burned, but less time in the saddle

https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/13119549/festive-8-cols-2022#latest

Badges are nice, but after earning the SR one, I ran out of badges I could realistically aspire to... I thought about getting an AAARRTY or whatever it's called, but it's fairly flat round here, so that would mean either veeeeery long rides, which I don't want to do in winter, or car journeys to drive somewhere hillier

no.

I think that's exactly it... there is more than one way to ride an Audax... could be the adventure, the views, the social aspect or the obsession for being the fastest.

If you know you can complete a set distance within the time limit, the logical step is to try and do it quicker… and if you are really quick, then the next step is to see if you can be the quickest on the day or ever… doesn’t make it into a race. Wanting to go fast on a bike is probably the first thing you try to do when you remove the stabilisers… or even before

A 650 set should be bulletproof… the smaller the wheel the strongest it is. My guess is that the spokes are under tensioned

Yes...