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Just my opinion... I would not build them... it's not about your weight... disc wheels need to be a bit over engineered to compensate for the extra stress of hub braking. 24 might do, but it's a bit borderline... on the other hand I am quite conservative...

As someone asked, I think mine are around 1.65 Kg

Novatec D 711/712 SB are the best light disc hubs at an affordable price. If you source them from the Far east (Ebay) they come with better left hand caps, less draggy than those you find in the UK. There is a guy on Ebay, called Ian something, he takes 3 weeks to deliver them to your door, but they are extremely good for the money, but only 32 H.
If you want 28 you can get them at BDOP cycling, one week delivery but more expensive. 24 is not a good spoke count for disc brakes, I wouldn't bother.
Mine are built on Stans 340 full black (the new ones) and come pretty light

They are probably Kinlin XR 300, nice rims for track... there is nothing wrong with clinchers, except if you puncture on a bank... but I don't know how many people puncture on the boards to be honest.
Looking at the number of people fixing a tyre in Richmond Park, looks like you can puncture on anything

↑This. On-One have Novatec hubs in 24H, super cheap at the moment http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HUOOLF/on-one-large-flangetrack-hub, and the TB25s can be had in that drilling too http://hubjub.co.uk/index.php/store/rims/kinlin-tb25-detail, with ACI spokes the whole lot will be barely over £100. You could build them in 32H instead, but given the strength of the Kinlin rims that's probably overkill unless you're huge.

Do they offer 24 H rear as well? I have only seen front ones... if you buy the same Novatec hubs from BDOP in Taiwan, they have all the drillings... they probably come a bit more expensive, but in the grand scheme of things not a lot

It's a ballpark figure... need to do a bit of maths to see the actual cost... I even have some Alpina elliptical spokes left, which are ace for track wheels...
nope, only London... I suppose you know how to find me if you need to...

For track tubs you might want to consider going bespoke. Something like Kinlin TB 25 rims built on some Novatec track hubs (or BLB/Planet X ones) will cost you in the region of 200 pounds or a little more if you spec fancy mini bladed spokes.
The Kinlin are good for track, decent aerodynamic, pretty stiff and will take small 21 mm tubs

Are the NDS spokes of a disc braked hub more likely to snap from fatigue or lose tension due to the forces of braking being applied at the hub rather than the rim?

I'm being driven mad by my rear wheel Novatec road disc hub, ACI spokes and a 32H 29er Alex rim which constantly has spoke losing tension and snapping despite use of tension gauge, linseed, proper stress relief etc. in building.

The Novatec D 712 SB rear (if that's the one you mean) has a decent tension distribution. For Alpina DB I build them at 22-23 on the Drive side (Park tool gauge) and that comes at 17-18 on the non drive side, which is a high enough tension to prevent them from coming loose. Don't normally use threadlock compounds on these, but if you need, I would recommend Loctite 222 (the purple one) as a spoke prep. or Loctite 241 if you want to use it on the nipples after the build. Some use lineseed oil, I have never tried it, is seems to get pretty hard when I use it on wood

Your cartridges are press fit and the axle has some lips internally that prevents it from moving. Effectively the locknut you mention is just a bearing "cap" and a spacer. Tighten it, don't overdo it... it should not interfere with the bearing function

Again, IIRC the Jobst Brandt Retrogrouch™ wisdom is that spoke breakages are almost always fatigue failures due to too many stress cycles. Spoke tension doesn't affect how many stress cycles the spoke undergoes or how many it can withstand before failing (I think). His recommendation is to keep tensioning the spokes until stress-relieving them puts the rim out of true, then backing them off a touch, re-truing, and stress relieving them again. If they stay true that time then they're good to go, basically. I don't think he made different recommendations for different wheel uses.

It's a bit old school. When he wrote the book rims were a lot "softer" meaning you didn't need a lot of tension to get them out of shape... if you try a Wolber Profil or an Ambrosio Elite, you will see that as you go over 120 KgF, you end up with a saddle shaped rim.
Modern rims are a hell of a lot stiffer and you need some serious tension to get them out of shape. i don't think you can get a Velocity Deep V out of shape at all. But the local stress experienced by the holes is still the same, so chances are your over-tensioned rim will stay true but it will crack at the holes pretty quickly.
The answer is simple, get a tension gauge, even the cheap Park Tool one is very good and although the calibration is not 100% accurate, it's not far off.
I still use it for those spokes which are not featured in other calibration charts (essentially anything which is not DT or Sapim)

How much for rims only?
Assuming they have not been braked on (as per photo of fixie with no rim brakes), I am interested. Hubs have been filed hence I cannot use them for other builds... maybe you can? Always handy to have a set of nice hubs...
I can take the wheels apart myself, I do build wheels