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So here the chainstay opening needs to be wider to accomodate the extra dropouts so that they come at 135 mm? Confused...

Thanks...

In the meantime, I have ordered Chimonas book...

My understanding is that BB lugs are already BSA threaded, so I don't need to buy expensive cutting tools

Also, I have an obsession for single speed disc frames... what is a clever way to have SS dropouts AND a disc brake mount? I have seen All City Bikes solution, but my understanding is that their dropouts are proprietary

Quite tempted to get some practice tubes and a cheap chromoly tube and lug set and have a go during the Christmas period. I appreciate silver is more difficult to work with, but I would rather avoid having to buy an expensive oxy-acetylene torch and a simple blowtorch is quite appealing... any other downside in brazing with silver?

Just a curiosity. I never ride carbon wheels. Is such a big difference of comfort, shiftiness vs alloy wheels? Why is that?

No... blindfolded you wouldn't notice any difference whatsoever... with your eyes open you will find them amazing, typically proportionally to how much you spent for them...

Not sure what shiftiness is though

LE.Otherwise the CNC's SL42 are 45e and the Archy are 71e, even they are lighter. Hmm, I don't know what to say/

I don't know what you are talking about... is it encrypted?

I have built a few H+S SL42... never thought much of them... very narrow, quite heavy and if you have brakes, the black disappears quickly. If you don't have brakes, then the Formation face rim is nicer... although it's the same thing without a brake track.
Also, don't see the point is spending a fortune in light spokes, when you build heavy rims

Archetype is the best rim H+S makes, whichever way you want to look at it. If you don't use brakes, then you might want to have a look at the new H+S hydra

the archetype has in it favour ease of tyre fitting but its profile means it is not that stiff

Not sure what you mean... the V is the stiffest shape... besides Archetype are plenty stiff

They also perform exceptionally well

Veloce 9 shifters... around 2000, Mach 2, the best generation of Campagnolo stuff, fully rebuildable. Both levers and paddles are in silver alloy (not the shitty plastic paddles). A few scratches from hitting the deck, but overall very decent conditions and working really well. Could do with new rubber hoods if you like things to look tidy.
40 quid is my best offer

Hi,
I've got a silver Veloce, which has 11 speed geometry... It has taken a few hits, most notably the outer plate has been nicely carved by a fall at Paris-Roubaix... it works perfectly fine... but it's beyond acceptable for the discerining folks on Bike Radar... seeing you probably use it for cyclocross, I'd say it's as good as new... 10 pounds + 2 quid postage

Not exactly easy to find... are the freehubs compatible?

building a 16 out of a 32 h hub is more complicated than it seems, as using alternate holes means the spacing between them on the L and R side of the wheel are not quite right. In turn the wheel ends up being not quite right and when you only have 16 spokes that is... you guessed it, not quite right.
If you can't sort the freehub, I would rather keep the rim for a front wheel build and get something else as a rear

Compressionless outer

DT comp or Sapim Race would be perfect

If it's only one spoke you can avoid detensioning the all wheel. Neutrons have some washers inside the rim. They are held in with a sticky tape, but in time that might become ineffective. If the washer moves from the hole, you need to put it back in exactly the same way, as they are asymmetric. Just look at how another washer on the SAME side of the wheel sits. Other than that, there is nothing particularly difficult about it... of course you need the correct spoke key

I see... I was convinced a UST rim had to be tubeless ready rather than tubeless compatible... by which I mean no need for tape.

Anyway... very annoying Mavic no longer make their FORE rims... seems like going backwards in time

I thought about 27.5 for my Fugio, which is very similar, problem is most 27.5 tyres are made for MTBikes and won't fit in the narrow rear triangle. Measure it first, to avoid disappointment...

Depends what is reasonable for you... they all seem pretty expensive to me. I got the Jagwire.. around 30 pounds for the cable set

I don't think they are... the top one has normal eyelets, how would you insert the nipples without a hole n the rim bed... the UST ones use FORE cups

It's a flange with some holes, there is hardly any design secret about it... some lighter (thinner) shells seem to take radial lacing, including the 80 grams cigar shaped Taiwanese hubs

Yes, Royce hubs come with a yellow leaflet explaining not to lace radially, clearly it was ignored. That said, if other manufacturers are happy with radial lacing on their 20 H hubs (including Hope), then what does it say about Royce shells?

Funnily enough I recall a rear DT 240 hub failing on the non drive side flange in one of their handbuild Mon Chasseral wheels, which you can't blame high tension for. Low tension is just as bad, if the spoke loses tension and the head is allowed to dig and grind in the hole at every revolution.

My comment re. Hope hubs failures and jumping is because I know Hope is very popular among downhill riders, trial and all sorts extreme bike users... I don't think you can experience such a catastrophic failure out of nowhere, "just riding along" so to speak... in the same way as carbon frames don't open up in half while you are riding, but they might do so if you crash against a bus

NIce, how does 327 USD translate into the UK market?

Seen a cracked royce flange in the flesh... the guy was not supposed to build it radial, but being a 20 holes hub, one would expect it to be an option...

It seems to me that my sample size is more representative of a few photos on the web of which we know very little... the large crack might be the result of a four feet jump with a bad landing... people on mountain bikes do crazy stuff with their bikes.

Why not?

None of the people I know who build them have ever had any problem with them. As I said, in the past I built dozens of PRO 2, PRO 3 and Mono RS and never had a single one failing. There is no reason why Hope shells would be weaker than any other alloy shell on the market. They do extensive heat treatments to make sure the alloy is sound

Yep... very annoying... although there are still plenty around