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What I mean is that if the inter-flange distance is too short, then the hub is only suitable for deep rims… anything shorter than say 54-55 mm is not really suitable for shallow rims

Threadlock/spoke freeze is a way to mask a problem, not a solution. Spokes come loose because either the tension is insufficient, or the rim is not stiff enough and wants more spokes or the hub flange doesn’t suit the rim… you should aim to solve the problem

Re. course records... I remember someone going for the "course record" at BCM a few years back... I think it was believed to be in the 24 hours ball park, but there is no official record as such... which is a bit of a shame for bods like me who always made a point of finishing an Audax first... probably the reason I no longer ride them... I am too competitive for non competitive events.
However, I keep looking at the Pendle 600 and think I should have a go at it... even if I haven't cycled longer than 60 miles in a couple of years... anyone doing it next June?

I do use it for the spoke threads

Been a long time since I last built a wheel... but yesterday I had a go again

I agree, but ultimately this thing is run by Strava. The challenge has been significantly watered down in 2020... now that lockdowns are a thing of the past outside China, it should be reinstated as outdoors only.

Do you want to do it all outdoors? I think these days indoor is accepted too.
Obviously the only real way of doing it is all outdoors and in a place where there is some sort of winter (short days, cold... you know what I mean).
You can break it down to 40 miles a day including the 25th and it's not too daunting, but realistically there might be a couple of days when you can't ride for various reasons (ice, booze?).
My advice is keep an eye on the weather forecast and ride accordingly. If a good day is on the cards, make the most of it by doing a longer one, if it's wet or dangerous, see what you can do when it's safe to ride.
I have stop doing it when they stopped giving out the cloth roundel... I kind of liked receiving it in the post, feels a bit like a trophy at the club awards night... without that carrot, I really don't feel the urge to complete a particular set distance, so I don't even enter it anymore.

I would have gone for beige, but the wasn't that option... :-)

I had a white bike in the past, didn't find it more dirt prone than black or red or blue to be honest

Just ordered my S2L in full white with cycle to work scheme. I have used my wife's M3L enough to decide that

1) I want one
2) I want S bars
3) I don't need 3 gears

I normally use a vice and take the precaution to use two pieces of wood to avoid damaging the soft aluminium caps

Why different lacing?

Looks like a 90s Campagnolo rim, what is it?

I'm not really... every now and again I need to build a pair to remind myself how to do it LOL... a far cry from the hundreds I was building back in the days in London.

Nemesis are still the coolest rims... I had a pair and got rid of them when I decided to give up on tubulars...

Harder to say... however, spokes tend to fatigue much quicker on a rear wheel, mostly because that's the driving wheel, where the acceleration "happens" and it happens at the hub, where typically spokes fail. Front wheel spoke failures are much rarer, suggesting deceleration at the rim has very minor effects.
I suspect in a disc braked wheel deceleration at the hub will have the same effect as acceleration, this time both front and rear... actually more front than rear. So, it is not unreasonable to think that all else being equal, disc braked wheels' spokes are bound to last less and therefore the wheel needs some "overbuilding" as well as benefits from a non radial lacing pattern.

Does it matter?

The work is force x distance... if you have more distance at the rim, then you need less force to do the same work

Isn't the force applied to a disc rotor greater than that applied to a rim?
If a wheel has to stop in say 1 turn, then that is roughly 2 metres long at the rim, but a lot less at the rotor, which means you need more friction at the rotor, hence more force...

Am I talking nonsense here?

Your call...

Rims? Hubs? Hole count?

Can you drag yourself to Solihull?

Where are you in Birmingham and do you have rims/hubs already?

I suspect they might not have a machined brake track... so braking will be poor

Does it make much difference if they end up having 1 or 2 degrees vertical angle, provided they are aligned correctly otherwise?

I'd like to build a track frame because there is a chance I will ride it SS or fixed.. not sure what to do with a lugged geared frame made of Cromoly, other than converting it to a SS with a chain tensioner.

10 mm threaded rod, with bolts spaced at 120 mm?

I figured out a good way to make sure the dropouts are well aligned is to just bolt a hub and fit them to the stays whilst clamped...

Rediscovered hot water or complete nonsense?

Are they more difficult to fit than standard vertical dropouts? I would assume the tubeset for fixed come with a BB lug designed for 120 mm rear

That's what I thought...

Yes, my first attempt will probably be a basic fixie...

Compatible with lugged construction then? Is it a case of longer chainstays to widen the rear triangle?