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Pizza Rack, Pizza Bag and Gevenalle 1x...You win.

Reminds me of my first build...

Head tube for days.

New to the idea of SSCX, have ridden track bikes on the road for 3 years now and have an idea of what gearing to run for certain types of rides/ terrains based on how fast I want to go balanced with how hard I want to push.

I'm going to be building an On-One Pompino over the winter and in the spring there is a race locally that is a gravel road/ CX race (road race format with some really soupy sections due to it being the second week of march, and in canada LOL)

I would like to ride fixed rather than SS so I'm curious what people are thinking as far as gearing if it has the possibility of being fast in parts but extremely muddy in others. as a indicator of strength and what i can spin I'm pushing 47 15/16 (double fixed) right now and normally average about 30-32 km/h on rides around 60-70km's.

If I'm posting in the wrong area, (My bad first post) I'll try and find a better spot but I figured here would be a good place to start.

Cheers, Nate

Paris to Ancaster?

Super slave! Form over function.

Hello,

I'm looking for a Alpina Winter/Audax fork, preferably new or 250mm steerer. I'm from Canada and am having loads of trouble trying to track one down. Dolan sells them on their site for £99, with £79 postage. I'm hoping to get it for £100 or so shipped.

Cheers,

Oz

double chainring and a dos freewheel isn't it.

2 Chainrings, 2 rear Cogs, so 4 speeds.

Not exactly a single speed.

29ers?

Meh.

This must have been a fun wheel build. "I need 400 spokes, 15000mm length and 10 hours of time"

I got the Mash x Atomic 22 kit, and I love it for a few reasons. I like not having to carry a second lock to lock my front wheel to my frame. It puts me at ease that my stem/bars/ fork can't be stolen. And the best thing about the kit is how long it takes to install it. I have a few bikes all with Thomson seatpost collars, stems, and Phil Wood hubs. Within 5 minutes I can have all of the bolts replaced with the Atomic 22 bolts, and that bike is way more secure. If I'm doing any bike touring or heading somewhere that may be a bit riskier, it offers some peace of mind.

Is this the generally accepted way to wrap bars? Right bar, counterclockwise from the end?

You don't need a spacer, you need a top cap with a lip built in.

Where can one purchase one of these?!

either your roadbike or your LOW// obviously doesn't fit then

Yeah, the Low is a bit small, but I understand that it's more about the frame and not how far your seat post sticks out.

It needs to put you in the same position as being in the drops of a road bike but with bullhorns.

That is exactly the position that my bike puts me in. The bullhorn position of this bike is lower than being in the drops of my road bike (with a slammed stem, and -10 Stem).

Low enough that it fits properly when you put bullhorns on it.

Mine is 58cm ctc, 90mm head tube and 26" front wheel, i.e. the top of the head tube is about 60mm lower relative to the top of the seat tube compared with your faux pro

My 62cm ctc seat and 140mm head tube yield a 50mm measurement. Is that 10mm the difference?

Neither lo nor pro

620mm C-C Seat Tube
140mm Head Tube

How much Lower does it need to be?

Doesn't mean you can't dress it up and go out and take a photo of it in the snow, to silence the internet haters...

Pfff, snow is amateur. I'm going to put it on an iced over lake!

The more you defend it, the uglier it gets.

As they say, a picture paints 1000 words, well, either post a photo proving us wrong, or give up.

When it's done, I will. I will still have the trainer tires on it, as I'm about 2-3 months from biking outdoors where I live.

I like the look of that, but hey, im a complete novice to the biking world, im interested to know though, what you see as wrong with it apollo ?

He had an issue with:

The red tires (they're bike trainer tires, they only come in red/yellow so that you don't accidentally take them on the road, as they will puncture super easy and get destroyed)

The setback and the saddle slammed back (I have long femurs, and needed the bike back to get knee over pedal position)

The short stem (I had the stem on those bars to sell them, and didn't want to deal with switching stems to see how the bars looked/felt with that geometry. The TT is around 610mm, so even with the 50mm stem, it's a decent reach.)

The spacers (I had the shop put in 24mm of spacers, so I could sit on the bike and see how it fit. i.e. measure twice, cut once)

In regards to the "beefier wheels" I was going to build up some deep carbon rimmed wheels, but considering I don't race, I saw no need. Most people that race (road) bikes have 2 sets of wheels, training wheels (durable and usually aluminum, shallow rims), and their "race wheels". As I will only essentially be training, I have more of a need for training wheels than race wheels.

These wheels are temporary as they're from another build, but I plan on building some Archetype to Low Flange Phil Woods in the spring.

probably been answered elsewhere, but why does it have mounts for bottle cages?

I wish more bikes had mounts for bottle cages. It always gives you the option of putting in a really low profile screw and it can hardly be seen. Maybe even if the hole was plugged and initially painted over like the Cinelli Mash forks.

There's nothing more unsightly than ziptied bottle cages, or less convenient/functional than behind the saddle bottle mounts.

The Low is rad, nothing wrong with those bars if you ask me, spyder will always be anti though! And the red tyres.

I got rid of the Spyder, mostly because it flexed too much under my weight. I put the Fizik Arione on.

The red tyres are indoor trainer tires, and I didn't feel like going through the trouble of putting outdoor tires on, taking a picture, then putting the trainer tires back on.

Good luck getting cranks longer than 175mm
A bike fit would solve all your troubles

SRAM Omniums come in 180mm, but I was worried about pedal strike and I want to spin.