-
-
-
-
The difficulty of home weight set ups is that even if you are strong as fuck, upper body stuff is going to use much lighter weights than lower body.
Up to 20kg could be a good start, but might be worth doubling up on some of the higher weight ones for lower body work. Can always buy more later.
Might be worth just getting a day pass at a local gym, having an idea of the movements you want to do with the kettlebells, and seeing where you're at with them, as a guideline for what stuff to start with. Can always buy heavier ones when you're stronger.
-
-
-
https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cy3Ma3XIWqX/?igshid=MTc4MmM1YmI2Ng==
Lush! That candy red is (apparently) quite easy to achieve with some tamiya clear paints over metallics.
-
Yeah yellow is a bit of a pig to paint, especially over black. Worth checking out this video for some good methods: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwnFf-KlykI
If you want simple and straightforward then getting a yellow rattle can for priming is definitely the way to go, especially if you're doing an army of marines.
And in general if you're painting something where you need good coverage, generally many thin coats is better than slapping it on, will help to not obscure detail.
Also +1 to the stuff sumo has said.
-
It looks like the paint might be a little thick, meaning that the wash might have more trouble running into the recesses. So for future paint jobs maybe try thinning your paint a bit more for your basecoats, or going lighter on the primer.
Space marines aren't a great case for all over washing, since there's so many flat surfaces, so you'll commonly end up with this kind of splodgy look. The standard thing to do here for the sort of GW base/wash/highlight approach is base coat -> wash -> tidy up the flat / raised surfaces with the basecoat colour again (optionally then go into highlights). Alternatively maybe selectively apply the wash, just putting it in the recesses you want it in, and then tidy up any small overspill with the base coat again.
-
-
-
-
I don't know if GW ever explicitly said why they did it, but I think it's just for accessibility - when a kid says "I want warhammer for christmas!" it's easier for parents to know where to go. A lot of adult / more experienced hobbyists won't buy anything from actual GW stores cause all 3rd party store offer a discount.
-
-
I had trouble with the kind of airbrush/compressor that @Sumo suggested but it was second hand so could have been that, I know that a lot of people get on well with them.
I know that a lot of people use this compressor: https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/as18-2-airbrush-compressor-as18-2-p17367/
and generally as long as you get a dual action brush you should be alright, if you're on a budget, can always upgrade later. A lot of people keep their beginner brush for priming and get a fancier one that they use for other stuff. .4mm needle+nozzle is a good covers-everything size.
I think open window and a good respirator are worthwhile. Acrylics aren't dangerous to consume generally but it's really best not to breath in stuff that's not air.
I have this: https://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/Airbrushes-accessories/airbrush-and-compressor-bundles/cult-of-paint-workhorse-bundle and have been very happy with it, but understand it is a little $$$ for some to commit to as a first set up.
-
-
-
-
-
couple things I painted recently. Rat ogre, and a necromantic horror blood bowl team I did a speedpaint lighting effect on so I could get the team built and painted in a week for a tournament yesterday, pictured on a matching pitch. Was a fun day, 10th out of 30, 2-1-1 record. Would have been 3-1-0 but a dwarf team managed to do exactly what they needed and got some fortunate dice in order to equalise on the final turn.
-
-
-
Do you film your sets?
At least if you're struggling with bench I would suggest it. You may notice what you're doing wrong. Alongside this, I'd suggest posting a form check with the video.
Make sure you're retracting and depressing your shoulders properly and creating a really stable base for the bench press.
I would personally advise against benching on a smith machine. The bench is the only lift of the main 5 you're doing where the bar should not move in a vertical line, it should move in a slight diagonal path. The smith machine will force you into a vertical bar path, this will not help you. It will also take pressure OFF of your stabiliser muscles, which are the exact muscles you need to improve if you're shaking / wobbling.