Search results for:

OP sorry to hear you got knocked off - was it because you couldn't stop in time or something, were you riding to close to the back of a car? The whole experience would be pretty disorienting for you that's for sure, but as you didn't say what happened we don't know if it was your fault or someone else's ie are you ascribing your lack of a rear brake to the accident when in fact it was because you don't check over your shoulder enough? Or it could also just be bad timing around a shit driving that's got nothing to do with your lack of a rear brake? You see what I'm getting at? Riding fixed means you have rear braking ability and a front handbrake so you have to ride within that context/skillset. If you're doing so then I wouldn't say that adding a rear handbrake to your fixed would prevent you getting knocked off.

I was riding along a very wide path trying to get from one main road to another through a local nature park. It is widely used by cyclists and commuters (it is a legitimate 'Green Wheel' cycle way) - it was a wet day and there was almost nobody else around.
I was riding along when I saw a group of 4 adults up ahead taking up the whole path. I called ahead and they all moved to the left, I started to pass on the right and when I had about half a meter to a meter of stopping time a woman from the group suddenly without looking walked into my path. I collided with her and was knocked to the ground with her on top of me skidding on my handlebars, pedal, hip and wrist. She was absolutely fine but my wheels are buckled, need new bar tape and I'm still sore.

I ride the path several times a week and make sure people are aware of me by shouting ahead and waiting for them to move over. I wasn't going very fast but I was left with very little time to stop.

I commute on a fixed gear Langster 2012 with one front brake lever and the rear hood disconnected. It has served me very well for about a year but I was knocked off the bike yesterday and I am wondering if I would be safer with both front and rear brake levers and callipers?

I want a minimum of a front brake, but would a rear brake help stop time on a commute as we move into wet/winter conditions?

Would dual brakes help safely slow the bike down on descents, i.e. when your legs are going over 110rpm? At this speed it can be hard to push back on the pedals.

Am I barking up the wrong tree?

These responses are helping.. both wheelsets are clinchers and I do run a front brake.

Dan's point is exactly where I am coming from - the traffic is the thing that kills my average speed fixed or geared, so when I ride fixed I often find myself accelerating back up to cruising speed and wishing that the wheels were lighter. I also think that would help me *fly * where traffic is quiet as the bike is already reasonably light.

The quality of the roads is fair to middling, I'm not going down cycle paths etc.

I'm looking for some advice/experience about upgrading my Langster's wheels (Alex Rims)

I ride a 2012 with the stock wheels (Alex Rims) and GP4000s - I enjoy riding the bike, but since I upgraded my road bike with 1500g wheels the Langster feels sluggish accelerating. The Langster is clearly 0.5-1kg lighter than my road bike and I can still maintain a similar average speed over relatively flat ground.

I've seen a pair of light Chinese Carbon 50mm Track wheels for about £230-250 and a guy on a well known auction site who will custom build a set that weighs in at a similar number for a similar price.

Specs on the custom build wheels:

• DT Competition Spokes (24 x 3 cross Rear - 20 x Radial Front)
  
• American Classics Track hubs with sealed cartridge bearings and allen fixings
  
• Stans Alpha rims
  
• 1490g - pair
  
  
  

Chinese Carbon:

• Toray T700 carbon fiber
  
• Novatec track hub A165SB/A166SB (black/red available)
  
• Mac aero 474 in black
  
• 1660g - pair
  
  
  

I use my fixie as a second bike and for commutes of 10-15 miles and I like to do them as fast as I can. With that in mind, what are the pros/cons of either set?

I'm looking for some advice regarding the correct BB length for this crankset:

http://espressowheels.com/crank.html

I have a Dawes 5 speed 'Streak' bike with 27" wheels. It originally had a
single chain ring. I have stripped off the transmission components and plan to install a pair of 700c track wheels with 120mm rear spacing, the Espresso crank and KMC chain.

I haven't been able to find any information about this crankset other than a vague comment about a 103-110mm length.

Thanks,

Alex

current langster geo is no longer like a road bike sadly, if you want a langster, go for it.

Really? What do you mean about the geometry on the 2013 Langster not being like a road bike?

The resulting bike looks great with the matte black finish. How does it ride compared to the Langster?

I am looking to buy a Langster - but would you buy again or go for a Dolan? I've seen "Dolan Precursa Track Bike" available for a similar price, but I don't really know enough to differentiate between the two.

This is a very good article (top post) - a friend of mine has his bikes mounted on the wall in his house as you recommend. It is a shame garages are so easy to break into given that they look much stronger than an outbuilding. Would a removable parking post in front of the garage door help secure it?

What kind of chain would you recommend to use with a ground anchor in a garage? I've seen countless videos of chains being cut through like they were butter. Is it better to use a very long D-Lock from the anchor up across the bottom of the frame?

This policy is quite inconvenient for genuine questions and the first time I've seen a forum doing this. I don't even seem to be able to send a pm?