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Alsoi, A vintage late 30-60's period airline rear 'flip-flop; small flange hub.

Comes with lock ring and 17tooth sprocket as I can't remove these. I'm sure the will come off but I guess you would beed to clamp the hub or something in a vice-and I have no workbench to do this in.

The bearings/cups/cones seem to be sticking a bit. I did put fresh grease in a while back and give them a rudimentary clean, but I guess they need a good polish or dremel polish in side to make them spin properly again.
That said they do still work -I used them on a wheel for about a year with the cones a little loose, and had no problem except a sleight wobble because of this.
Due to condition £11

I have for sale a pair of used Shimano PD-M515 pedals that are unwanted,. I have never used them-came with a frame I bought a few months back, but they seem to be fine as far as i can tell- a few nicks here and there but nothing serious.

Call it £5?

so what do we think, fixable? Would i need to split it all the way through and then weld it back on? I have no idea on this one.

the other side-you can see it coming through

Crack runs most of the way through the crank, almost from one side to the other.

HI people. Sorry fro delay. Here are is the crank in question.

SOLD to Spicep1. Thread Closed

sold to Spicep1 pending collection etc

Yup, I'm in London-Homerton. I can meet but not until saturday morning really- Is that ok?

I have a lovely 1930's set of bsa double fluted steel cranks on my EF Russ, but the left hand crank has formed a big-ol' crank (and I mean big) just above the pedal. Anyone any experience of welding cranks/using cranks that have been fixed in this way? The bike has been run fixed but could be set up with freewhee/gears Bad idea or worth a shot? .

I really don't want to loose these cranks, and bsa 5pins that are double fluted are pretty hard to come by.

Cheers,

Jeff

These still available- anybody interested before they have to go to ebay?

Now £50. Need them gone asap.

Dibs to DTPreece it is. PM me and we can sort details

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FOR SALE:

These came on a 50's raleigh Record Ace I bought of ebay recently, but I have no use for them so here they are.

Nice looking vintage road wheel set for a screw on freewheel. Pelissier hubs with Sachs Maillard qr skewers on rigid alloy( I assume) rims. Straight gauge spokes. I'm guessing they are 70's by the look of them, but really can't be sure. Spin nice and straight and should polish up nice.

No idea how much really, but the RRA was a bargain so shall we say
£55

Could be these with different qr. Certainly look like them to me:

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=479A75F5-864C-4582-8591-653B9567106F&Enum=110&AbsPos=7

oh, that sounds good, yes definitely interested.. PM me a picture please, if you can. Thanks

Great colour that.

anidel-I've always had to file them the few times i've done it. Sometimes I've got it wrong and wasted a pair, but generally perseverance does it.
You've probably seen this but sheldon has good instructions. http://sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html

They did come with the wheels yes, and they are scwalbe. There not perfect but it seemed silly to change them to my more russbish Kenda 26 1 1/4 tyres just for the sake of it. I may get some nos tyres if any come up that are better/more suitable.

The top nut would be 24.61mm internal apparently!

The cottorpins you mean?
I just used a smallish hammer and blck of wood under the edge of the crank so the vibrations didn't damage the bottom bracket and bearings. And hammered patiently and relativly gently. And to get old ones out, a centre punch as well.

Takes a while, but you don't want to damage anything. You may have to file the pins down on the angle to make thyem thin enough as well, they all seems pretty idiosyncratic as to exact size due to wear. If you do this, be carefull as if you file the cottor pin wrong or 'wonky' and not flat across, the crank arms will not line up properly and will be off in raleation to each other.
The correct way is to use a cottor-press (http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/CotterPress/)

but these are very hard to find in this country, and expensive so not really worth it unless ypu plan to build a lot of bikes. MAybe someone on here has an old one they no longer want?

T

Only got this photo of the non drive side at the minute-bit out of focus though. Will have to try get a better one tomorrow if I can.

anidel-how about cyclo? they seems to come up relatively often

Rode it on my commute as a trial today. Rides nice and clean but the steering is takes a while to get used to, as does the balance-what with the loong fork rake the puts almost the whole wheel out in front of me. Handles nicely in the drops though.
Only issue I discovered is a slight looseness in the head clip/fork the leaves avery slight wobble-I think I may have slightly too large bearings so have ordered some more. Probably not helped by the fact find I can't find a top nut to fit the odd 31/32 inch size steerer.

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