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OK, all built up now so here is some pictures:

4.saddle is a rare B10 saddle very early. In VERY bad nick so perhaps best to use a different saddle for every day riding-although this does hold up to short rides it's not very comfortable and is easily damaged.

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Obviusly bit of a niche one this, but it is with a heavy heart I am selling my 20's/30's EF RUSS bike, all build up (pretty much) period correct. Don't really want to part with it but Mrs Jeff's 3 bike rule, and the fact it is too small for me really, and hence not getting much use now I've left the green climes of Hackney and it's canal side commute. I only had it a year or so-build thread is here https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/262211/.

Can be collected up East London or Greenwich.

Full build is for sale.

EF RUSS 1920's/30's road frame frame-hand build in Battersea with Reynolds High Manganese butted tubing (Pre 531). pretty small frame- I'll measure it and update tomoorw but from the top of my head I think it's 20" seat tube, 21 1/2 inch top tube. Paint is tatty but possibly original-certainly old.

Chainset is Nickel plated williams, from the 30's I think. Wheels are Dunlop Light Alloy 26 1 1/4 on Solite fixed/geared flip flop hubs.

£325

Also, whilst I'm at it-any opinions on whether to line the lugs or not? Most RRA's seem to have not been lug-lined form the photos and catalogue images I can find, but I had intended to do it in either flat or metallic gold.

Just worried it may look a little too 'busy' what with the massively elaborate decals, that's all. So any opinions?

The paint does seem a bit thick to be honest, yes,-at least around the bottom bracket and top tube. However-I checked back on the photo's when it was painted the horrible yellow and it seemd to be then as well, so I don't know if it's just something with those lugs, like they were never that sharpely defined or something. The head tube paint seems fine, however, and as it was Mercian that painted it I kind of hope it was done properly, as I've never heard anything of them doing a bad job before.

It is built up now, but havn't been able to get any photo's uploaded as yet as no home internet. Will try do some this weekend. I've taken it out for a short ride around the block and need to do some fine adjustments to the sturmey hub set up, but that's par for the course, I can never set these up correctly straight off!

thecycleclinic - The bottom bracket is a Bayliss Wiley 2c raleigh type axle with the original cups. It's not really the ideal length, but I tried a load of different ones and they gave to much play in the cups or were too close clerance for comfort-RRA's originally had a specific hollow nickel plated axle that I think may work with some williams, but I've never seen one for sale ever. So I settled for the Bayliss wiley for now.

I think it's just a case of trial and error to find what is best fit for your cranks I'm afraid.

Nice bike. How come it has the Flandria decals?
They look like Crlton Flyer Lugs to me.

Road or track?

Leave the paint! The orange is nice, but the original is better.

I know, you'd think you'd realise as the paint split to start with, let alone when then the forks began to crumble up. Looked at the other images again, seems like both sides of the fork too! To be fair to the seller, I'm pretty sure he just sells on old parts as a business and didn't do it himself, but still...Shame-such a lovely old pre war track frame as well...
I figured even the slightest damage like this done to a cylinder of cold steel would compromise the integrity on the tubing, but you know, hoped I might be wrong some how...

though as much, oh well

Was thinking of bidding on an old track frame on ebay, but the forks are damaged. The seller reckons that they were squashed when someone fitted an old resilion brake bracket to them and over tightened it/fitted a d-shaped fork bracket to a round section fork. Any advice/thoughts etc about whether seems safe to ride or not?

The seller says they are-bought though I would ask for opinions here.

Cheers,

That is lovely. Vey jealous, would love an Osgear but soo expensive.

tried it out with the wheels to get and idea how it will look

the crank and chainring

got it partially bolt up in last few days, but discovered that bottom bracket cups have a large diameter to the inner hole, so the spindle had some play that makes the cranks wobble slightly. Going to have to to search for another axle that fits the cups better whilst still fitting the chatter lea cranks, so this may slow things up a bit.

Other than that, and the fact I can't find one of the brake levers and the screw-in Sturmey cable jockey wheel (I think that I may have lost them when moving house or put them somewhere 'safe'-never to found again.), pretty pleased with progress so far.

I have a single GB "superhood" lever I may be willing to sell, that I believe is the first type from circa '52 onwards, if you chose to go for the single front-brake fixed option.

close up of front

Front is a Prior large flange on Constrictor 27" clincher

Rear is an Sturmey Archer AC close ratio hub on Constrictor Conloy 27 Inch clincher rim

Also got the wheels built up at Mercian-thurns out their wheel builder seems to be an oldish chap as he told me it was really nice to work with some old parts again. He was very knowledgeable and has done a fantastic job so very happy I chose Mercian to build them in the end-I've had a few disasters giving old parts to wheel builders in the past who've totally ruined the rims and or/hubs.