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Lovely, ta. Let me re measure in the cold (warm) light of day tomorrow morning and I'll get back to you.

Are Vittoria Open Pave still the go to open tubular for winter? Or does a decent open tubular for winter not exist.

@gbj_tester do you have any 46mm x 3mm covers?

The distance from the compression ring to the top of the headtube is 4mm. I think i've got my calculations right.

I'll happily put a £ in, maybe we can set up a sort of time share situation?

That's really stunning. The pink looks great, and agree with the others on coloured spacers - differentiates it a bit. ISPs always look great

Price drop

Hi Joe, yeh that's great. I've sent you a PM

Hi folks,

Looking to shift some of my Albion kit. I love it but don't quite get on with the fit.

All items have been worn approximately 4/5 times and are in great condition. The jerseys are spotless, no flaws at all and are in as new condition.
The bibs are in excellent condition except for the chamois pad which has a little bit of piling, see pics.

Long sleeve jerseys - all size large

Three season pocket bib tights, black - size medium,

Based in N. London, around Kings Cross/Caledonian road. Happy to post as well, buyer pays postgage.

Any questions/more pics please shout.

Moved to eBay

Blimey, can't believe this finally sold. It was becoming a staple of the classifieds section. Enjoy!

That's really interesting, i wasn't aware of that. Does that also mean, generally speaking, floating rotors will be quieter than non-floating rotors?

Ahh gotcha. Thanks very much!

Hi folks.

Giving my bike a clean yesterday I realised my rear rotor has a bit of play in it. It looks like the actual rotor part (rather than the black spider), is shifting a few mm in all difrections, as if it's not completely bonded to the spider. The spider is solid, no movement, so it's not a case of the lockring not being tight enough.

Front rotor doesn't have the same problem. Is this a death trap/warranty issue?

In an attempt to shorten the reach on the Condor, i swapped from 38cm -> 36cm handlebars. I'm trying the Specialised Short Reach bars for the time being. If i can find any carbon bars in 36cm with 65mm reach I'll upgrade to those. Also swapped the stem to an earlier version to match the seatpost.

Cleaned away all the commuting grit on the rock lobster, which is still serving as a faithful runaround.

I bought one of these on Amazon for a tenner. It ended up arriving a bit late, so I resorted to using the long end of an allen key and managed to get enough leverage to fit the cranks. I haven't needed to re-tighten it since and it's been rock solid.

I'll take you up on that offer if Ghostface hasn't! i'm tempted to buy one but unsure if i'm ready to commit. Can repay in beer etc.

Lovely, thanks. Do you put water in a pan over the hob etc., or just put boiled water in a container with the chain?

I would say so, yes. In my experience the solid particles that get into the chain are normally worked out of the links and to the surface when you use wax. With oil lubricants i've found the solid particles will work themselves into the most abrasive location possible.
I'd just brush off any excess sand after a ride

Is dipping the chain in boiling water still the best way of getting rid of old wax/grime before re-applying? I've given up on melted wax and use wax lube like Squirt, but haven't yet got a decent way of cleaning the chain.

I normally re-apply the wax lube after a wet ride, or when it needs a top up, and then when i clean the bike thoroughly i run the chain through Park Tool's chain cleaner with some soapy water, which doesn't do much.

Does putting the chain in boiling water regularly not damage the chain through constant heat cycles? (I know nothing about metals, so this is a guess from me)

Yes, i have a pair. I bought a size too big and use them over some thermal bibs when the weather goes negative. They're pretty good, and hard to beat for the money. With them being the wrong size i find all the excess material flapping about really annoying, but that's not exclusive to these specific bibs. You won't be able to beat them for price.

Lovely bike, but I can tell you confidently that you won't get that sold here for that price. You might have better luck splitting it and selling it piece by piece, but eBay might be your best bet for selling it as a complete.

Lovely bike though, GLWS either way

Probably a re

Hi folks,

Does anyone have a cheap/free 31.6mm in line seatpost they're willing to part with?

Will cover fees etc., Just want to try an inline post before committing to an expensive jobbie.

Cheers

New bike through Green Cycle Initiative, replacing my Lynskey Helix Disc Pro. I've always liked Condor bikes, and found that the Baracchi had the geo I was after - taller stack height, slightly shorter reach, and more relaxed handling.

I've got no immediate plans for upgrades etc. at the moment. Currently 7.6kg with plenty of room for weight-weeniesm down the line.

Some long term changes:

1. Remove a link (or two) from the chain. I think I measured poorly during the initial install and now the chain slaps the chainstay during fast/bumpy descents
   
2. Slam the stem, install an Extralite expander and integrated headset topcap
   
3. S-works turbo cotton tyres for summer
   
4. Power meter pedals
   
   

Getting it built was a complete ball-ache and has put me off building bikes myself, I'm just pleased it's working as intended at this point. I can recommend Jacob at Via Atelier in Kings Cross. I gave up trying to set up internal routed Campagnolo gears and took it to Jacob, who sorted it completely.

Got this together just before christmas, but had a few niggles to sort out before I could ride it in earnest.
Condor Baracchi Disc, campy chorus, mostly deda superleggero finishing kit, scribe wheels.

Reminded today about how good the Sealskinz all weather insulated gloves are.

-4C around regents this morning and my hands were pretty toasty. Decent dexterity, not perfect but better than lobster claws. They're listed as windproof, and do a good job of it too.

Sealskins also do merino fingerless liners. They reduce dexterity further, but do provide more warmth. One of the things to keep in mind is that the fingers in the lining can roll up when you put the gloves on, which constricts blood flow to your fingertips a bit and reduces their effectiveness.

They're definitely not waterproof, though would be if you re-proofed them with DWR, but they do keep you warm when they get wet.