-
-
I had something very similar on my last frame. I hit the back bumper of a car that was taking off at a light and braked suddenly. Very gently - driver didnt notice and i dont think i even took my feet off the pedals (Nerwig tubing is pretty delicate, apparently). Anyway, twas enough to do similar damage to what you have there on your frame. I only noticed about 2 weeks later when i realised i had a toeverlap that I never had before.
There was a complementary bend in the top tube as well, but you wouldnt notice unless you went looking for it. I scratched the pain off the bubble to make sure there was no fissure, and used it no problems for about another 9 months, daily. It did slowly develop into a crack though, so I retired it before it killed me in the face. -
Im having trouble getting rid of the noise that my chain makes. I thought initially it was the new chain and cog wearing in, and it has improved somewhat, but its still pretty far from silent, even though the chainline is near perfect.
Also, today i noticed that my chain seemed a little slacker than usual, only to find that the tension seems to vary a bit depending on the rotation of of the cranks; i.e., at 12/6 oclock, its tight, and at 3/9 its looser.
How is this even possible? Its not like ive got a biopace chainring; Ive got a (new) velosolo 1/8" chainring on miche cranks and a new miche sprocket on the back. -
Just saw this - after having having had exactly the same problem recently. MKS doubles - the non NJS ones, and MKS sylvan pedals.
I got the through dry in the end, with a pliers. It works. Youll cut your hands to bits holding the pedal in one hand and pulling through with the pliers with the other. It helps if you clamp the pedal, or even just pin it to the floor with your foot while the pulling the strap though. The straps are tough as hell though; didnt have a bit of damage apart from the imprint of the pliers at the tip..
-
My guess would be that you're using an allen key set?
Try with an individual key.
Initially i tried with a set, then tried in my LBS today with a single key. It gave me a bit more traction, but the problem remains.
Get one of those long park tools Allen keys (or another brand) with the ball end to get it almost tight, then a standard Allen key for final tightening.
This could work... will give it a shot if i can get my hands on one of those. Nice one.
-
I didnt find any similar query using the search. Bear with me, I dont find this the easiest thing to explain.
Ive got what i believe to be a Campy Chorus Aero seatpost - this one. I havent seen many Campagnolo seatposts with this sort of recessed bolt, but im no expert.
I have an old Flite on this post. When tightening the bolt, you have to sort of slot your Allen key into that recess there that runs vertically along the seatpost. This means theres not a lot of room to adjust saddle angle; it can be done, but if your looking for anything more than horizontal, the angle at which you have to introduce the Allen becomes almost impossible.Putting the saddle at the angle I want makes the bolt more or less inaccessible, and as I tighten, it brings the saddle back down to horizontal as it catches.
This wrecking my head, as I like a little more support in the grundle area.
Ill try throwing up some pics of my own particular clusterfuck tomorrow. -
-
-
Ive got a similar problem. Driving me nuts.
Ive got a new chain ring, sprocket, and chain. But Im get this grating sensation (although mild) that tells me something isnt running smooth. The chain line is bang on though.
Ive felt a similar sensation before when the chain has been overly tight, but thats not the case here either.My only other thought is that ive fucked up the chain, because I ended up messing around with the length more than Id have liked and removing/replacing several links - i cant see any stiff links though.
-
-
I came across this one today by coincidence. Its in Spain.
If communication is a problem Id be happy to fire the seller an email in Spanish to get details. -
-
-
-
Weird one this morning. Im approaching a light, there already a motorbike and cyclist stopped in between the one way traffic on one side and a line of stationary cabs on the other.
As I approach the cyclist, slowing down to stop, the guy pulls some sort of panicky maneuver, apparently in an attempt to get out of my way and let me get through to jump the red. He did that thing where you turn your front wheel more than 90 degrees and sort of crumple on top of yourself, and then slid down the side of the parked cab to the ground.
All of this while stationary, and before I got the chance to tell him to chill and just wait for the light. Dont think i looked in that much of a hurry.. -
-
-
I picked up a Prestige about a year ago; seems to be the same era as yours. 130 rear spacing. It also has that boss underneath the top tube: Im after finding your post on the roadbikereview forum, and I gather this boss is for the team plate (I didnt know this, and my LBS were unsure as to what it was for). Is this an indicator of a team bike?
Mine was in pretty bad shape, superficially at least. It had a terrible paint job, with no primer or clear coat, and no decals, and a weird mish mash of parts (105/campagnolo veloce). If it is indeed a team bike, it might have been obtained by a shop and painted/assembled on the cheap.
Ill try to put some photos up later.
I cant tell from your pic, but is the down tube also hex tubing? Ive seen some Prestiges that used hex tubing for only some of the pipes.
Id be interested in contacting Rossin, given that you seemed to find them helpful; care to pass on your contact there?