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Nothing as exciting as most of the decals he sells.. Couple of local steel builds including THIS (no clear)

Did you clear lacquer after applying the decals?

Once yes and another time no. They last ages with or without. But yeah as with the instructions, if you wet apply don't be too hasty on the clear.

If you don't get some extra fillets done by the builder don't be shy to get some bondo around those gussets before paint... they're a bit of a mess hey? Pretty damn cool though.
Good ideas so far. Rad frame.

Lovely build, nice work saving this one! Good luck with those decals, you'll be fine. I've wet applied and dry applied cyclomondo decals and I prefer dry application to be honest. Dummy position where you want them and mark with pencil the corners on the frame. :)

Whoever lost the original fork to that needs to be punished.

It confused me also.. What, to preserve the brand? If anything, it's a rolling advertisement. Anyway, the sheer idiocy of this all makes me think less favorably of the brand.
My blunt 2c.
Sell it as is, dammit.

So much good. Got a thing for FIR rims, great choice and job with the matching pair!

black bars away from porn? Very nice.

Perfect.

That's the idea! Let me clarify, I rebuilt it for track legal - I have a street fixed - but we all like to play with our toys eh? :)

Nds >>>>>>>

Doesn't look like much does it! Upper limit of UCI legal: 30cm.

How do you know where I ride it :P Not on the street with 51:15 anyway.

Still waiting for the replacement decals but finished this up yesterday.

Chopped the steerer a little with 5mm spacer in there.
Bars are Soma Highway 1's wrapped in cotton (helps cover the cable routing) and again in some leather tape.

Put in the solid axles and gave the Shamal a light sand with 1600 and polish with Autosol. Not perfect but she'll do.

... and a couple quick shots!

saddle looks great I think:

full body shot:

Will do a full shoot sometime soon in full sun and somewhere nicer than my back yard.

Reckon I'll get a threaded 650 fork sometime and lo-pro this frame. High BB makes it a perfect candidate. A damn nice ride with 700s and ahead as it is.

:)

Aww yes, glad this went to a forumer. Great find. Subbed

Yeah it's the same deal, weird foam construction with some kind of plastic skin. Don't expect it to take kindly to pot holes!

^ Thanks man
Street isn't intended but the reason I went with the Criterium tub instead of the paper thin Record was for those days I feel like being silly and having a spin on the bitumen.
I don't need to skid to stop quickly so not afraid of tub on the street except for the cost of puncture.
Stem is no-name parts bin thing I stripped and polished. Lucky find, it's nice.

Updated pics properly spaced.

^
I'm no expert but the leather shop which I bought the dye say leathers are usually dyed with this kind of stuff.
I've had dye rub in small amounts from new saddles so I guess it's a normal occurrence for blackened soft leather saddles to bleed a little.
Who knows till you try it eh? :)

Tortured myself with the rest of this disc. ohgod :(
If i can recommend anything, just buy a new one. Cleaning old glue sucks.

Ended up scraping as much as I could with the screwdriver and carefully using acetone with scotch pad from the underside only (so it couldn't run onto the disc surface). Then I sanded the whole lot with 240 followed by 400 followed by Autosol followed by washing the filth from the disc with grease and wax remover.
Nothing perfect but the result is pretty damn good I think.

Almost like a new one!

Next, the axles.
This was challenge because there is 0 information anywhere and few pictures to reference. Internet, I am disappoint.

You can see here the disc is not dished and the bearing races are offset toward the fixed side.

I roughly measured the exposed sides ~24mm fixed and ~11mm freewheel side. Bearing races are both the same distance from the outside edge.. so a ~13mm offset.

To center the wheel I'll needed to shift it across.
I also found a picture of someone selling a disc with spare axles. By the looks of it, the drive side cones must stack as compact as possible. There is a thinner 17mm hexnut on one end but the standard nut on the other.

I've used a mix of the Campy and EAI bits to create the shortest stack possible and spacers from the 126mm skewer to build the 13mm of extra on the other.

I had a brain fade and miscalculated the offset as 8mm at first, these pictures here are with a 5mm spacer instead of the 10mm spacer...my bad. I have since fixed my errors :). Will fix pics later.

Interestingly I couldn't remove the bearing retainers from the disc (wasn't sure how) but it wasn't necessary. With the axles removed I filled them with grease and slipped the bearings in easy enough. (I wish I had a picture but hands too greasy to handle the camera).

Success!

Driveside.

Non (with thread cover)

Stretching the tub unglued:

I am every so slightly worried about the 23mm tub clearing the bridge.. I used to run 23mm clinchers but this is a bit fatter. We will see.

Whichever idiot used this disc before me had his brakes too low and they have slightly marred just inside the disc surface. Going to pick up a paint pen to fix it up a little sometime.

:)

Pulled apart both saddles today. Leather was dry and faded, sun damage my guess. You can see the protected leather is black as it should be.

It was sketchy removing the plastic and decals. Interestingly the two saddles have differently manufactured rear insert one more durable than the other.
Scanned them in for reproduction purposes if necessary.

Treated it with some oil dye and leather nourisher.
Just like a new one!

..Interesting experiment anyway. :)

^ with perf leather? Yeah I've seen a pic but nothing more than that.. very nice.
Thx phil :)

If you are in love with the stem for this build and don't mind 'ruining' it you should be able to use a round file to enlarge the inside diameter. I've done it with a 25.4 up to 26.0.

A boring update. Busy with work, not much spare time.

Got in contact again with Brett, he says he should have stripe decals in the shed so I hope to get my hands on some replacements.

Started on the Shamal.
There is a special tool to remove the dustcaps (typical Campy) but I couldn't source one or find anyone with one. In the end I CBF going to the extend of building one so I saturated them in RP70 till the caps spun freely and used some bits of plastic and a screwdriver to pop them off. One was VERY stubburn. The cap is soft as butter so small damage was unavoidable even from the plastic. Can deal.

You can see there is a small circular wire clip that holds the cap in place.

Moving on to the axles.
The EAI cones are different and have a larger race cone and a smaller hex bolt locking cone.
The shamal dust-caps sit snug around the lock cone so the EAI hex type can't be used; I have to use the original ones. A bit disappointing but not really a problem.

Every spare moment I have been hacking at the tub glue peeling it off with a screwdriver and sanding smooth underneath.
Usually I'd use chemicals for this but I don't want solvents anywhere near this disc.
This is going to take a long time.

Hell:

Also, the two saddles arrived.
The one in the background really good plastics without yellowing but non-original leather.
The other has original leather with no rips but plastics are trash, yellowed and cracked.
Going to get some leather dye and nourishment stuff tomorrow to bring the original leather back to health and do a swap.

Perfect saddle for this build I think!

:)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ChromaFlair

I don't suspect the 'Waterford' logo is coincidental. Probably in-house craftmanship. I like them.. (but wouldn't have them).

^ you're right, sawing through TTs is definitely not allowed.