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Indeed Scilly.Suffolk remember that for anyone who does need a 12t 1/8 remember the following piece of advice I was given:
"It is not possible to make a 12T sprocket as thick as the other sizes so it appears a lot smaller than traditional 1/8th sprocket which confuses some customers into thinking it is 3/32."
Priceless info gem.
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This is a question and not a dig at Velodrome Shop, not just yet without an answer anyway.
Well just recently I ordered a 1/8 12t cog from velodrome shop which was received promptly last week. Upon opening the parcel I inspected the cog and it was apparent that the teeth were very narrow for a 1/8 cog. So narrow that I compared it to my other 12t cog which is a 3/32 and would you believe it the 1/8 from Velodrome Shop is identical to the 3/32 cog which I already had...
An email was fired back off to them from me informing them that I was incorrectly sent a 3/32 and I have received the reply from Velodrome Shop. They bluntly told me that it is indeed a 1/8 cog as I quote from their reply.
"It is not possible to make a 12T sprocket as thick as the other sizes so it appears a lot smaller than traditional 1/8th sprocket"
Now this seems strange to me but I have never had a 1/8 12t cog before and could not find out online if 12t cogs can come in a thicker 1/18 size.
Top marks for Velodrome Shop if they are correct but I really need to know if somebody could tell me - amibeingbull$hitted by them or not?
Cheers
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Well dan at least they are not stuffed with that old recycled paper!
I have a DF3 and used to ride the PX Pro Track but could not get on with it as the front-centre measurement was too short for me having quite a forward body position. I prefer a more relaxed head angle and a steeper seat angle with a long TT for my height.
I actually really liked the frame and my guilty confession is that it looked pretty nice to my eyes... anyway. I never noticed the lack of stiffness that some can feel, I always notice flex in the handlebars/stem much more than the BB. Handlebar flex always annoys me and I have rode for years with the very stiffest combo I could find which I can pull on hard without trepidation.
In the end I did not feel the need to dislike the PX Pro Track and it was just the geometry that was the killer for me and the current owner of my old PX is very happy!
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I got the DMT Pista and I'm happy with the decision. They are very much suited to the track and they can be laced up very tightly, most importantly for me the cleats can be positioned very far forward just as I like them.
The toe box area has stacks of room, way too much for me in fact as my feet are narrow up front not that it is a real nuisance however as they felt fine when sprinting - superb in fact. Another track sprinter I was up against also has the same shoes and finds them pretty good however they certainly look beaten up on the outside after a year but then again these are track shoes and not for the commute.
The only design flaw if that it is even that is that the aero cover "tongue" does not sit as smoothly as it should do in my opinion but a bit of DIY should be able to fix that. They do come up a bit short too (I'm a size 43) but with a pair of thin socks thrown on I was sorted for the day. Yes they were a little bit uncomfortable after a while but as a sprinter I did not care as I was after a very tight shoe and they felt great sprinting.
I suppose when it comes to shoes individual fit is paramount and so everything is to be taken with this in mind, I do think that the quality and race orientated design put this shoe well above the shimano ro87s that I used to race on for track use and sprinting but then again most race shoes would be more suitable than them.
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Thanks Santino,
I'm wanting it ready for a race on Saturday and I'm trying to make do with what I have without buying another crank for it. I could easily fit a wider BB but my main concern is that the chainline will be too wide for sprinting and I'm trying to keep it as close as I can.
I'll speak to Dolan tomorrow and maybe he will be able to offer some solution.
Cheers
Tony
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Hello all, I'm having a frustrating problem with Stronglight 2000 cranks fitting to a DF3. I put the original Stronglight BB from my PX carbon into the DF3 but the crank spider now hits off the cranks... Arrrrrgh! The Chainstays are wider in the DF3 than on the PX which is the issue.
Now I assume there is no fix for the Stronglight cranks and this frame but I have a set of Miche Primatos which do not protrude so much at the spider so has anybody else had success with this combo with a decent chainline suitable for Track Sprinting?
It's super frustrating as I haven't been able to ride the frame yet and missed out using it at a race today (which was thankfully cancelled anyway). I'm just really wanting to hear from others (particularly sprinters) who have this frame and would like to know what cranks/BB they use.
Many thanks
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^^ Sounds OK however it doesn't work for everyone though for the reasons explained above. It is a difficult one as I would hate to drill a set of £200 Bonts only to have them give way in a sprint. The DMT pista does not seem to be available anywhere in my size (43) unfortunately, a few few places have them advertised recently but soon informed me that they were out of stock.
Cheers
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I take the cleats pretty far forward yes, partly because I personally produce the most power with a greater hip angle and even with my saddle as far forward as it can legally be it is still not enough when tucked in an aero position.
Moving the cleats forward effectively opens up the hip angle slightly by moving the feet and legs back relative to the rest of the body. Unfortunately the Planet X track I race on has a very short Front-Centre and wheelbase meaning that my body position is right over the front of the bike and this is an issue for me as either I hold my body back and can't produce as much power as I can or I try to go for it and the back wheel lifts up as the weight balance is too far forward.
The reason I am after a DF3 frame is that it has a longer Front-Centre and will to some extent solve this issue, the other bikes with a longer F-C which I have tried have been fine for sprinting and I will need to change frame before an Intl comp in July. The BT sprint bikes in particular have an extremely long F-C and long wheelbases, I saw one last week at a track here and even for a short rider and a small frame it had very different geometry to the Planet X and was likely a lot more stable with the added length.
I hope all that makes some sense, it's clear enough in my head anyway.
I have seen that a few people have tried drilling their own cleat holes mainly for a more midfoot position so it can be done but I have not known any track sprinters to do so.
Cheers
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I should have posted this here earlier as the outdoor season here is rapidly approaching but would anyone be looking to sell a Dolan DF3 frameset in size 55cm? I'm having difficulties with the geometry of the PX carbon in 54cm and it's not helping the sprinting position as the Front-Center is too short for me and the F-C of the DF3 is 31mm longer. I would possibly consider a PX in the size 56 too if I'm desperate. :-)
Cheers
Tony
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What has put me off the Bont Zero's is that the cleat holes are positioned too far back for my position. I run my SPD-SL cleats fully forwards but the Zeros have them positioned further back which may require some DIY drilling :-) by me. Anyone tried this personally?
I may consider the DMT pista as it looks like a proper aero shoe and should hopefully put up with a sprinter like me OK. How does the cleat position compare to Shimano on these?
Tony
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Dolan DF3 frame/frameset
I'm looking for a Dolan DF3 frame in the largest size of 59cm with the latest type of dropouts with the chain tensioners seen in the attached image. I am not so bothered about a few cosmetic scratches or blemishes as long as the frame is structurally sound.
If anyone has one that they may consider selling then please send me a message.
Many thanks!