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http://bristowevents.co.uk/gfm2014.results-book%20complete.pdf

You're a star thanks!

Are the results up anywhere yet?

Results by secret handshake only?

Are the results up anywhere yet?

Robadob!!!!! Dibs if they are 25.4 Clamp size for stem.

Super price on the bars!

Tony

On the other hand, 31.8 bars are about twice as stiff as 25.4 for the same weight, and look how long it took Nitto to spot that.

In theory they should be but in reality I have always found little difference overall between 25.4 - 31.8 set ups. The stems flex too though and the larger diameter 31.8 stems are generally not as stiff as the 25.4s. Actually the stiffest bars I have ever owned were an old set of 25.4mm with a long clamping area which suits most stems well, this is a stiffer bar then the Alpina 31.8mm carbon for instance. Unfortunately they do not have a great deal of drop and I never used them for sprinting. I currently have them set on a road bike mounted with an old and very overbuilt MTB stem from the 90s.

Their OS bars are still poorly designed, as the diameter drops to the same as their skinny bars much too quickly.

I didn't know that this was an issue with the 31.8mm Nittos thanks for pointing it out. Hearing this is disappointing and limits the stem choice - what were they thinking?

Tony

Its not the bolt that stops the wheel slipping, if you look closely at the picture you'll see a screw missing from the drop-out, bottom left of the wheel nut.

I see the frame is not the only thing with a screw loose...

...JK!

No problem, I know what is missing Paul - you are after the M4 x 40mm bolts which are not screws.

These bolts are 4mm in diameter hence the name M4 and as with any frame if the rear wheel is not on the droupouts tight enough it will pull forwards and in my case bend these M4 bolts used for wheel alignment. I sent you a PM with the link to the bolts.

Good luck

Tony

I bent both of mine last year because the wheel nuts were not tightened enough during a standing start and Planet X were completely useless in aiding me, but someone with the PX frame told me that I could buy a particular set of bolts from an online hardware store which I did to a T... they were the wrong size and did not fit.

Luckily however I brought the correct type which I have in front of me now. You are after **M4 40mm **they are cheap - about £1 posted however they will not have the special PX bolt heads designed for twisting easily by hand but a bit if DIY epoxy or similar will work if you feel the need.

Tony

This is very true Kyle and in reality I have never seen anyone below 6% which I can verify even in competitive bodybuilders. I don't know what my body fat is as I have never had it tested though unlikely to be sub 10% though I am leaner than many who claim to have much less.

Hydrodensitometry can be inaccurate too and although some consider it to be the gold standard it is still not as accurate as a DEXA reading which is really the only truly reliable method (assuming calibration is spot on). It is amusing when people proudly tout very low readings and after taking a DEXA scan they are very quiet.

I know Colm and he is a big sprinter - not a big fat guy but the type that you would not argue with or want to land on top of you in a pile up!

The most accurate test for BF is called Hydrodensitometry and it's most frequently used for athletes, other than that calipers if used by someone that knows what they are doing are reasonably accurate , however throwing around that number I doubt you had either test . The most elite professional bodybuilders are able to achieve the lowest bodyfat known which is around 3%, this is attainable for a very few of them and can only be maintained for a matter of hours and as is well documented can often result in death .

OK I have two Dolan Pre Cursa frames in my possession right now. A new size 52 blue frame from late last year and its larger "replacement" which unfortunately also turned out to be a 52 and not a 54 but is an older frame.

Now the interesting part is that the two frames should be identical and the head tube and top tube length are but** the chainstays are not the same!

**Dolan really did make a change at some point and the "newer" frames nearly have clearance for a medium cyclocross tyre which also increases the minimum Q-factor as the chainstays are wider by several milimeters.

So there you have it then**.

**Tony

Tony - I think mine is one of the new batch with the (not so nice) matt black paint job. I agree they are a lovely frame, I like being able to run a bottle cage that isn't cabled tided to the frame and they have the benefit of being able to run the really wide tyres (something i'll probably never do but nice to have the option)

Fixedstar - I'll see if I can pick up a 111. All they had when I looked was a 110 or a 113 and i didn't think the 110 would have been enough.

Sadly its the benefit of being able to run really wide tyres which fouls the chainline - you can't use the correct BB size which gives the ideal chainline (42mm in my case) as the spider hits the chainstay unfortunately.

Tony

I am fairy sure that Dolan changed the rear at some stage as a friend of mine has no problem with chainline, mine is a "newish" blue frame size 52 from when they came out late last year and the chainstays are wide enough to fit a MTB tyre. This causes the chainstays to be so wide that the three chainsets that I have tried (2x Stronglight 2000 and one Miche Primato) both had the issue of the spider hitting the chainstays with a 42mm or so chainline.

The Miche Primato allows me to get slightly closer to 42mm but it is still about 4mm out currently (on-one hubs) and I have tried several BBs to get it as close as I can without hitting the stays. The frame is a flawed design as far as I can tell and Dolan have been pretty clueless on the phone, nice enough people though and I got through to Terry himself!

I still think the Pre Cursa is an excellent frame at a superb price if you use a hub which gives a wide chainline.

I got my dolan fxe 56cm the other day and I'm having a nightmare finding a crank that'll run the correct chainline and not foul the frame.

I tried the stronglight 2000 with a 107 bb and it fouled the frame I tried a 113mm bb and the chainline was dreadful but the cranks did not foul.

I tried a SRAM omnium crank with the standard bb and its even worse than the stronglight with the original bb! The spider fouls the frame. I'm not sure if I can get a different bb or not but I guess that would wreck the chainline?

Have I got a duff frame or should I just try some different cranks? People seem to have successfully fitted both of the cranks I've tried already. I don't really want to have to get a new wheel with a different chainline.

Any help is appreciated!

TL;DR- which cranks fit a dolan fxe without ruining the chainline?

I received a reply from dolan.

My question:

***Hello,

I have a Pre Cursa frame & Alpina fork that I purchased last year. I understand that the fork is suitable for drilling and have seen a few tutorials on this with that fork, but can the frame be drilled for a rear brake safely?

Many thanks

*
*Their reply*:

*Hi Tony,

The forks are not suitable for drilling as the brake caliper will not meet the braking surface of the wheel.

Regards

Dolan Bikes***

Cool thanks.

Longer chainstays on the FXE or the dropouts are shorter/longer, so the wheel can't be tucked in close to the seat tube. <== that's definetly the case.

A few people have drilled the Pre Cursa for a rear brake and even think Dolan has said in the past that this can be done safely. (Though I just emailed them on this to be 100%)

If I was riding with brakes front and rear then I would probably go with the FXE.

I have heard it a few times that the rear stays are longer with the FXE than on the Pre Cursa - does anyone know if this is definitely the case?

Dibs on the 50t Silver chainring!

Tony

What size would people recommend for me? - I'm about 5'9"

Probably the 54 would be the best bet depending on how accurate 5'9" is and what you plan to do with it.
I actually have a 52 which has a 53.5cm effective TT length and I'm 5'9.5" though I ride track.

I'll also mention that the blue looks better than the black but each to their own.

Would be interested in the frame only if you decide to split and can post.

Dibs on the chainring.

Can't be totally sure but I use the Dia-Compe Dirt Harry which should fit a 25.4mm clamp and it uses a removable shim to bring it down to 22.2mm, works well enough too I find but you may find prettier options if you are willing to pay more.

Would you be willing to post for free? ;)

Or just fit a threadless bottom bracket.

Might have to depending on the threads. I was thinking of the Prestine one as its only £20 or so.

How is it better? saddle still jauntly.

Open your third eye.

OK whilst attempting to insert a 110mm Shimano BB on my Pre Cursa I managed to erm... cross thread it and now it is well stuck. $hit, $hit chit! This one is having to go to the shop for an embarrassing extraction and here's hoping that the threads weren't totally screwed in the process. The funny thing is that the BB went in without too much difficulty and only got "tight" after a dozen or so turns, it went in a good way and won't come out, 8ollox!

I think my Dolan should have been called Pre Cursed - might have to bury it far away and cut my losses.

That's strange. Is it a 54? There is literally 1 or 2mm clearance between the bolts on the spider and my stays. Yeah I am running 32s and its fine clearance wise, which is great.

This is a 52 which means a 53.5mm toptube in the Pre Cursa. There must be significant differences between the stays of the 52 and the 54. I wonder if anyone else has a 52 with similar issues?

The set up is perfect for me and this is certainly not meant for the road except for sprint training on a flat straight stretch.

He was oooobviously going to put some mean track wheels on when he got the velodrome ;-)

;-) Actually this is for training mostly at the local track which is outdoor and can only be used on nice dry summer days as the weather in Ireland dictates.

I bought the frame in November but our track season is in the summer. As the local track is so hideously bumpy there will be no mean track wheels on this rather just an el cheapo Planet X on the front to match the rear seen on the photo. This bike is just to be a budget build and nothing fancy or wallet thinning, the blue frame looks 1000x nicer than the matt black paintwork that most Pre Cursa's have.

This probably means nothing coming from me but I think your frame is a little small for you.
You've got long stem and a fair amount of seatpost.

Hi IR,

I would agree with you for a road set up. Track sprinters like myself often take the frames on the small size and have saddles very high and far forward - sometimes right up to the BB and UCI bike fit rules allow this (for sprint events only).

The photo was just taken on the first test run on a quiet stretch of tarmac and a road wheel was fine for this and I had no tyre on the front PX track wheel at the time.

Still looking for these!

If you are wanting to get rid of anything similar feel free to PM me with what you have.

Cheers!

Tony

I didn't understand that. I was worried that they wouldn't fit mine due to what you said. Re you using the strong light 107mm bb? Cause that's what I am using and it is as tight as fook, but it fits fine.

Hi JB,

I actually have two Stronglight 107mm BBs which will not work as the crank spider hits the frame (making turning the crank impossible).

In fact there is no way the cranks would spin with a 42mm chainline due to the very bulky spider on the 2000's. I had to get a wide shimano BB so that it would clear the frame but this pushed the Q factor much wider putting the chainline well out of whack.

The root of the problem is that the Pre Cursa (my one anyway) has very wide chainstays with clearance for 35c Tyres which is an unusual feature for a track specific frame.

Must get back to finishing this build as it is presently unsuitable to ride with and I have yet only rode it briefly once on a test tun which was in late November as seen in the photo below.

Tony