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Dibs Record rear mech. PM to follow.

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Sale agreed and paid for by 11:30am on Friday: parcel received from Poland by 10:00am on Monday!

Everything was well packaged and is as described: all fasteners and adjusters are in place and screw heads aren't rounded off.

Hugely impressed: thank you very much!

There are two generations of Super Record RD and two versions of the second generation, i.e. three in total (both versions of the second generation were available in a gloss or a matt finish and versions using both gloss and matt parts exist).

Yours are both second generation, version one and dating from between 1978 and 1982.

These had removable body springs which were held in place by the bolt that sits between the two rivets on the upper pivot point; the body spring was not removable on V2 mechs, so there is no bolt.

The "Super Record" engraving on the rear plate ceased in either 1981 or 1982.

The mech on the right has the correct pulley cage plates, which are fastened from the rear by a screw-headed bolt and nut. However the bolt which secures the mech to the frame hanger is incorrect: it should be hollow as per the bolt on the left hand mech.

The mech on the left has a later plate into which the bolts screw from the front.

I hope this helps.

I'm wondering why the rear dérailleur gets a indexed lever adjuster and the front gets a barrel adjuster. Surely the lever adjuster is for trimming the front? Either way, these came fast and work a treat. Cheers, cheese.

Can't you just swap them over?

Disagree with that. It's a pain but a Park degreaser bath and wash thereafter is required for max chain life. No way you can get a wet weather chain or MTB chain properly clean without something like that.

MTB is unknown territory to me, so I'll have to defer to your experience; however if "wet weather chain" includes road bikes, then I have to, respectfully, disagree with you.

Firstly, chain baths are messy, waste huge amounts of possibly toxic degreaser and not hugely effective. If you must "deep clean" your chain then take it off and stick it in a jam jar with your poison of choice.

The reason I am against deep cleaning is that you i) strip out all the lube that has worked its way deep into the chain; ii) you have to wash all the degreaser out, otherwise it will attack the new lube and iii) if after washing the degreaser out you don't dry it thoroughly, you risk corrosion.

Sounds like a lot of work to me!

The most important thing about the "wipe-lube-wipe" method I linked to, is that it must be done frequently; VERY frequently. Early in this thread, someone suggested cleaning the chain once every 500 miles: too little, too late!

After every wet ride I do the chain, just as I wipe down the rest of the bike; no-one leaves their bike to drip-dry do they? In dry weather, I might leave it for two or three rides.

Old socks are ideal, just slip one on your hand and grasp the bottom run of the chain: wipe back, pull forward; once the sock is filthy, your work is done! I figure on one old sock for dry weather and two for wet.

It takes less time to clean my chain than it does for a cup of tea to cool down...

Come to Daddy!

I love 90s Campag but even I would steer clear of Synchro: it's a world of pain!

Depending on the model you could run them in friction mode, but might as well get some Simplex Super LJ like the pro riders did or Gipiemme "coke spoons" if you value aesthetics over performance.

I've got all three, but the Campag are gathering dust.

You got mail!

If it was only a little taller.

...the cheapest and most accurate chain wear tool is a metal 12" ruler (preferably with 10th inch markings)...

Certainly the cheapest, but this method is subject to human error: you have to keep one of the ruler accurately in place while taking a reading at the other end.

Unfortunately, the only accurate chain wear tool isn't widely stocked and will set you back over £30 (which is probably why it isn't widely stocked).

For an explanation of why the common tools are inaccurate, have a read of this page (it's not a very exciting read).

Considering the price of a chain versus the cost of sprockets and chain rings, it's a no-brainer: change it sooner rather than later!

Keeping chain, sprockets and chain rings clean will increase the life of all of the components: accumulated road-filth makes a great grinding paste!

Don't be using degreasers or white spirit etc., you just strip all the lube out of the chain and if you don't rinse it properly any remaining degreaser will attack the new lube: see here for how to maintain your chain properly.

32 or 36 spoke wheels will happily cope with a broken spoke (or two, or three), but the lower the spoke count the more stress each one has to deal with and the less likely the whole wheel is to cope with it.

Conceivably (as it is the front) you could lace it in a radial pattern and space the gaps opposite each other, but you would be starting out with what is essentially a broken wheel and would have a nightmare trying to keep it true.

Short answer: flog them and buy a new wheelset.

...I’m trying to figure out the exact year. Something tells me it’s either 87 o 88.

Pugs often came with (Sachs) Maillard hubs, which use a straightforward week/year date code, ie 21 91 is the 21st week of 1991.

More generally, Sachs bought several French component manufacturers in the early 1980s, so anything starting with Sachs (Sachs Huret, Sachs Maillard etc) will be mid to late 1980s.

Sachs were bought out by Mannesman in 1987, who gradually phased the individual brands out, or sold them on (Huret went to SRAM) and by the early 1990s nearly one hundred years of French cycling history was gone...

I need a 28.6 clamp but fortunately Sjs has a shim I can use with the clamp from Ribble. Should be all good.

I just got a 28.6mm adaptor from Chain Reaction: £2.00 post free, they even chucked in a couple of electrolyte drink samples.