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Managed to do a little shakedown / fit check ride yesterday evening. Front derailleur needed some tweaking, but was really fun after that. Temporary(?) black bar tape, I'd like something a bit less boring but haven't been able to pick a colour.

Zipp sprint might be a bit too bulky for this no?

Apart from being a bit extravagant on top of everything else, it only seems to be available in 12 degrees. The alloy Zipp is pretty bulky too, with the squarish cross section, so I'm not yet sure how well it'll fit looks-wise.

Getting there. The front derailleur cage isn't quite as sleek as the other bits, and maybe stands out a bit in isolation but whatever.

New things for me with this reincarnation:

• Electronic shifting
  
• Chain wax (the drippy kind)
  
• Road tubeless (tubes for now, though, to limit things to go wrong at once)
  

I got a refund for the Zipp stem but didn't have to return it, so... gonna use it at least for now. I found a stepped Cane Creek "interlok" spacer in the stash which will work with the stem. I didn't want to use spacers, but this is only about 3.5mm so I think I can live with that. Still can't get over the design of the stem though, seems so weird.

Final weight looks to be around 7.5kg with pedals and bottle cages.

Nice. Frameset looks pretty clean. I actually also weighed my 2.8 just the other day, 56cm came in at almost exactly 1300g with headset cups.

An annoying snag in the build. I'm intending to use a -17 degree stem without any spacers, and went for zipp service course sl. In hindsight it's fairly obvious, but the stem doesn't play nicely with the top part of the headset (or indeed with regular sized spacers). There's minimal lip around the steerer clamp, and the underside of the stem makes a tight bend without much radius, so the stem ends up pinching the top of the headset in one spot instead of making even contact all around. I'd have no problem filing a bevel on a spacer if I were using one, but don't want to do the same on the headset itself. So I'm trying to get a refund / exchange on the stem. I'll probably get the Ritchey C220 as a replacement.

In other news, I finally got around to disassembling and cleaning the bike. Frame has manufacturing date code "EK" which translates to November 1993, making it a 1994 model I'd imagine. Areas under the downtube bosses are a bit rough, need to mask them somehow, or just pop back the bosses.

Yup, looks really nice. I didn't realise that you had built the frame yourself when you posted about it in the cp chat thread, good stuff!

Boring non-update. I needed a replacement indoor trainer bike before I can re-build the 'dale. Looong ago, before I knew any better, I bought a flat-bar narrow tyre hybrid that was way too small for me. The bike was neglected, given on loan, presumably left to the elements and finally abandoned in a shed. So if nothing else, it was at least perfectly disposable donor for permanent trainer use. To my amusement I think this actually turned out pretty decent, would have probably made a perfectly fine beater as well.

Please do. That's lovely.

It would be interesting to hear how you like the original forks. I think they are cool, but at the same time I guess I've been a tiny bit suspicious of them.

I'd love to help you out with the downtube bosses, but it's within the realm of possibility that I might want to swap the wireless stuff to a different frame at some point... so I want to hang on to all the bits just in case.

Yeah, the frame had straight 1 1/8" headset with shims/adapters when I bought it. The tapered forks and headset were NOS (no idea why I ended up using Hope for the top, possibly just had a set unused). I built the bike originally in 2016, and haven't really looked since how common the 1 1/4" tapered stuff is. If it's any help, the headset was listed as Principia Ellipse, and I think the forks are Focus branded 3T Rigida Pro.

Rest of the Red swag 🙄. Line drawn at the power meter option, and front derailleur is Rival.

I think this CD set would have been my first attempt at running Linux.

Memory's a little hazy, but I think I may have managed to finish some basic installation but couldn't get X running -- then gave up for a few years 'till around 2000.

This is roughly what the bike looked like before going on the trainer, sans the ugly bottle cages and with somewhat grubbier bar tape. A nineties Cannondale 2.8 (1994 I believe), carbon forks have tapered steerer, 1 1/8" to 1 1/4". I do also have the original aluminium sub-1 forks, but I've never tried them.

I'm not 100% sure where I should put this, but since I'm upgrading my other old Cannondale, maybe there's enough turd polishing synergy to justify a mashup thread.

The goal is getting my one and only road bike off the smart trainer and out on some actual roads. The original idea was some TLC, maybe a new chain and cassette, but that plan went down the drain when I scored a partial SRAM Red upgrade group at a MASSIVE DISCOUNT! ...unsurprisingly, the final cost is ending up to be somewhat less palatable ¯_(ツ)_/¯.

2.5kg so pretty light. Like the build thread mentions, it's alder throughout, neck included. From what I can tell, the neck feels pretty stable -- not too bendy pushing from the back of the neck. Profile's not too skinny, though, which I like. So far I'm really liking the amplified tones too. For reference, I generally prefer single coils and fairly bright electric guitar tones (pickups are dimarzio "gen 2" parker fly model I think).

Yup, it's a hobbyist/enthusiast build, build thread here. I think there should be bunch of threads on talkbass if you want to check out his other stuff.

New guitar. Got a chance to buy this from the guy who built it at a very fair price. So far I feel it was definitely worth the punt.

Ta.

I don't have many changes planned for the future. I admit the dynamo wiring could be neater. I haven't been too keen on drilling the front rack, but that could be an option for routing. Rear light would be nice, but usually not really essential for my use, with clean wiring being an issue. The front bag has been very useful, but there are some minor things that could be improved on, so v2 could be on the cards at some point.

The kit is from Uraltone. They are Finnish, so (sorta) local to me. I've also built their Princeton Reverb kit before.

I shelled out for a nice Mojotone head cabinet... so it's not like I'm necessarily saving loads of money here. But building stuff is fun, and I could potentially tweak the amp to my liking without having to worry about deprecation.

I'm mostly satisfied :-) I tend to struggle a bit with the temptation to redo stuff just for cosmetics.

Building a JTM45 kit (like I need another nmv amp... 🤦‍♂️), board populated.

Present from my partner, first adult fixie-skidder Lego for me.

Tactically timed end-of-year report :-) I've gone from about 90kg to under 80kg, so effectively reversing a few decades worth of fairly steady weight gain. This is pretty much 100% from frequent exercise, which is something I've never really done before. That also seems to work in the other direction: the bump at the end is from having to take it easy for a few weeks (took up running, probably started a bit too hard, knees offended).

I'd like to think that I didn't really have an issue with my weight before, but being able to do something a bit differently in a sustained way feels nice.

I've ran twice in spiked winter running shoes, and both times it has felt a bit like a mistake :-) I think I really need to save these strictly for total ice hell conditions. It had snowed a few cm last night, so I thought the more pronounced tread on the icebugs vs. road shoes might be good even if it wasn't really icy. Ended up feeling pretty beat up after the 10km run. I've got Hoka Challengers in the mail, hopefully they will be a bit more fun.