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Really tempted with green hoods and green bar-tape, we shall see... trying my best not to upgrade parts just for the sake of it but when they wear out/break I'll get the porn parts on order.
Swapped the front wheel for another one I had and went for a ride, much happier with it this time round and managed to clock just under 40 miles. Spent some time tinkering with fit and it's almost spot on. Bars could do with going down a little. Don't think I'll be slamming the stem, certainly much lower than it is. Have to say I'm super happy with going second hand or used parts of my own on this build. I'm not hard on my bikes but it certainly feels nice to have something I can just 'ride'.
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Thanks, Georgel. Were you on a black fixed bike riding the other way?
I've sorted the problem with the rear mech. I looked it over just to see that everything looked ok, gave it a prod and everything was fine, also thought I'd try my luck giving it a good old shake just to see if anything was broken or loose, couldn't believe my luck/stupidity to find a valve cap fall out... It was a schrader valve which I don't own any of, probably fell in sometime in the workshop or from the previous owner, ha. Gears working perfectly now, still needs new hoods but overall feeling a little happier.
On my way back from a ride just under a hour ago going down a fairly steep hill, hit the anchors at the bottom and the front wheel locks up momentarily then spins and does it again - at 30mph. I stop to find a spoke missing and all the other spokes loose. Absolutely no idea how I didn't go over the bars, rear wheel must have been a foot of the ground before I threw my weight back. The wheel was so out of true I had to push the bike back home because it didn't even clear the pads with the brake open!
Kind of annoyed at this point I go back into Paypal where I've already opened a case as the seller said they'd sent me the correct wheels to find this..
Here's what they said I emailed them:
From Seller – 翁 成光01/08/2014 03:03 BST
It is buyer's fault,pls check the record as follows from buyer before order,he ordered campagnolo body before paymentdiy-bike,您好!
Ok how do I pay?
I need:
. 50mm clincher
. black hubs and nipples
. Campagnolo fitment
James
What I actually emailed:
From Buyer – No Quarter Bikes01/08/2014 12:10 BST
2nd paymentNote:
Hi, second part of payment for; 50mm CLINCHER carbon black hubs + nipples SRAM freehub Ship to; (my address, edited out)
Funding type:
Instant Bank Transfer
Pretty pissed they've sent me the wrong wheels, called me a liar and nearly get shot off my bike...
I've just sent Paypal a print screen of the payment I made to them with the comments, hopefully this should sort it.
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Thanks!
It doesn't quite have that 'new bike' feel about it where everything is fresh and works. Hoping cutting the steerer will sort the creaking noise out.
I took this bike to a professional mechanic and paid a fair whack to have it built up, if I send the rear mech and shifters back I've kind of wasted my money on nothing as setting brakes up and such I could have done myself.
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Yeah, 50mm.
steerer still needs to be cut, bars taping, saddle levelling etc etc
Got her back today and have to say really disappointed. It's creaking from the headset/stem/bars every time you torque the bike up. Gears feel very imprecise, skips 3 at a time sometimes, shifter hoods feel all loose and horrid not to mention the fact I've got to wait for a new rear wheel.
I purchased a Apex front mech which feels pretty crap, I had red levers and red front mech on a previous bike which felt bang on and crisp, this does not, I have to pump the lever a few times to get it to shift.
Spoke to my mechanic about the shifting and frame and hanger are definitely straight, problem either lies with the shifters or rear mech, thinking of just returning both as they were ebay purchases.
sighs sadly
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Velo Senso saddle. Didn't get on well with it so switching back to SLR. £16 posted
Velo saddle, it's much slimmer in real life, pics make it look rather bulky. £15 posted
Mirage calipers, rear mech (9sp) and 10sp front centaur changer. Comes with front and rear calipers both in same condition. Little bit grubby but work perfectly. £30
Campagnolo gran sport caliper. £12 posted
Elite bottle cages, used but perfectly functioning. £5.50 posted
Beater turbomatic saddle, small tear on right hand. £SOLD
Deda forks. Ideal for stripping of paint-work as they're currently a bit garish but nice full carbon fork. 23.5cm of steerer. £60 posted
40cm deda bars with profile tt bars. Shimano levers. £17 posted
Columbus tusk fork. nearly brand new, just a very very small scratch from use. 26cm steerer. £54
Dura-ace 7800 chainring. 50t type B, under 200 miles of use. £30 posted
Carbon 1" forks, just under 3 months of use. Steerer has been cut to 15.5cm (not the straightest of cuts but functions perfectly). £40 posted
Deda RMH 01 42cm with 110mm stem, both very good condition. £20 posted
LOOK Keo pedals. These have some 'movement' in them but not play, these pedals have done under 300 miles. Every single pair of Keo pedals I've ever came across has some sort of movement, they function perfectly. £18 posted
Beater selle saddle, £7.50
31.6 carbon post, 380mm. £10 posted
Ritchey 31.6, 310mm. £12 posted
Look pedals. Run smooth, no play. £9 postedPinarello stem, 120mm - £6 posted
Keo pedals. Again, a very small amount of play (don't think I've ever came across a set that don't have some movement). £10 posted
Genetic track bars 380mm with 100mm genetic stem. £25 for the setup
3 random BCD campy chainrings - 53 - 54 - 55. £15 posted for all 3
Ritchey cockpit. 10mm stem, 420mm bars. £18 posted
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So I moved workshop a while ago and have loads of stuff still in my garage. I'd like to clear some space. I've got a lot of stuff which I'll be updating everyday if I get the chance. If I have missed out things in the descriptions please just PM me with your questions and I can update the thread just so it keeps the thread short.
A lot of the stuff in this sale has been in previous sale threads but I've lost count of what I've got and what I haven't so it's easier to make a new one.
No dibs, first come first served.
again, no dibs.
Dura-ace 7800 calipers. Very good condition, a few tiny scratches from storage but not far off brand new. £74 posted
ITM stem. 110mm. £9 posted
Fulcrum racing 7 wheelset. Rear needs a little time with a spoke key (7/10 straight) and front is perfect. Both hubs run smoothly. No skewers, tyres of tubes. Campy cassette included. Wheelset used for 6 months in mostly dry conditions. 10 speed. £SOLD
Fulcrum racing 1 front wheel. Seriously light. Perfectly straight and runs smoothly. No skewer (well I do have a crappy old one I could include if you needed it) braking surface under 900 miles on it. £SOLD
Giant Defy frame. Size L, compact geo but equivalent to a 58cm seat-tube and 56cm top-tube. Used quite a bit with scratches and marks but structurally sound. Headset looks a little worse for wear and it needs a new mech hanger.
£95 posted
Ritchey WCS stem, pretty much brand new. 140mm £16 posted
Also got the classic bars to match. 40cm. £22 or £30 for stem and bar
Modolo brake set. Little worse for wear, pads pretty much worn through. £14 posted
Dura-ace bottom-bracket. 68mm british. It's done just under 300 miles of dry weather since new. £15 posted
Hatta NJS headset. missing 1 cage of bearings but they can be picked up cheaply. £20 posted
NJS bottom-bracket, believe it's hatta. great condition, runs smoothly with no play. £SOLD
9sp ult rear mech. £SOLD
Endura winter leggings. no padding. worn once for 20 mins. size 30-32". tags included but not attatched. £17 posted
Brian Rourke 653 forks. Suface rust and a very very small dent. 14cm steerer. £48 posted
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Shifters on their way to me, should be here tomorrow.
Dropped a large box of parts and frame off to my mechanic, hoping he can make it into some sort of bicycle. Decided against doing it myself as I'm usually shit with cable lengths and indexing, didn't really see much point in getting top kit to poorly install it myself.... I'll stick to paint-work.
Wheels not yet arrived sigh but I did find out they are almost here!
"2014-07-28 05:17:00 UNITED KINGDOM COVENTRY PARCELFORCE Released from Customs "
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I really enjoy driving, actually I love driving.
I'm a strong believer in 'time and a place' for speed. I own pretty nippy car which is so much fun around the country roads and blasting down the motorway at stupid o'clock. I'll only speed if I'm 100% sure of what I'm getting myself into, i.e, nobody else in the car, nobody behind me or infront of me be it a country road or the motorway.
I think doing 40mph in a 30 past a school is more dangerous than doing 120mph on a clear motorway by yourself. I've lost a handful of friends due to road racing over the years and I've seen some un-pretty things which always stops me when there's a car I know I could drop a gear and smoke. I'd like to think I know my car very well and I know its (and my) limitations, I never push either.
Is it possible to drive fast at appropriate times putting nobody in danger but yourself? Yes.
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Shifters purchased! Just waiting for a few small parts to arrive then I can start building this baby.
Looking to build it myself as it's a new experience with BB30.
Where do the spacers with the slit in go? Do they fit in the BB itself? (top left)
http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/images/products/zoom/1329315008-05123400.jpgMe and Eyebrows took out his bearings on his CAAD10 and his bb shell look something like this (the alloy thing in the middle with the 2 holes). I can see why you'd need the 2 holes so you could get a thin pair of pliers to bring them together making for a easy removal of the clips.
Mine just looks like this;
https://druber.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/mark1-002.jpg
Guessing those spacers somehow fit in there to stop the bearings from being pushed too far in? Logic would tell me they are removable just incase you push the bearings in too far and squash the spacer/stopper thus not damaging your frame, just a small cheap part. If these parts are indeed spacers why don't they have the 2 holes for easy removal? Surely if you tried to remove the spacers you'd just end up pushing it around in circles in the BB shell? If I'm correct in thinking they are for the BB shell how do I get them in?
They are indeed threaded