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Just a thought... I've not done it but if you run double rings up front (with no front mech) you don't need to unbolt the rear wheel to change gear, you have a straight chain a all times and bigger difference in ratios.

You could run a 34+36 up front and 18+16 at the back. This would give you;

34x18 = 51 gear inches
36x16 = 61 gear inches

All without moving the wheel or a chain tensioner.

I dont think a double up front and a double at the back would be not sensible, why not have gears? Chainline would be a bit messy and I think chain length changes like that I think it would be hard to get the same chain in those dropouts.
But I do think two cogs at the back is a practical idea with 1 or 2 tooth differances

This is really cool, inspiring me a lot. Def keep this going! Are you thinking of painting the frame or keeping it fairly "beater" esc?

Need some carbon 1 1/8 carbon road forks to fit a giant defy 4 (got it at a steal with no forks). Needs to fit a 200mm headtube so about 260mm steerer length.

That token frame looks good. The dolan pre cursas are used down here in Southampton's Calshot veledrome. They are a good option

Cool, thanks for replies. The problem with the Chinese frame option is that half the money you are spending is actually on the bike, just postage. With a tight budget I dont think thats reasonable. I think the second hand market is something I will have to venture into if I cannot find a cheap frame with reasonable postage.

So a while back, I got a fixie frame from an auction. I realised it was a piece of crap and soon enough I had spent £200+ on it. Now it resides as my track bike (shit but gets me round). However now the frame has a crack in it, and its getting bigger so its scrap really. Also the wheels on it are shot.
So I want to get back on the track asap but dont want to spend much money on a bike I will only use for about 20 hours a year. So I need some adivse, here are my options:

1. Splash some cash and get a good, fairly cheap track bike (Dolan pre cursa, V-sprint track etc.) The issue with this is I am paying for components that I already have and only need wheels and frame.

2. Root around and get an old frame and wheels. However this leads me back to my issue of buying second hand crap, unless I get something good. (oh wait thats gonna cost a fair bit)

3. Get a cheap fixie (Hipster crap like Creates or No logos) and strip off all the parts, flog em gear it up and give it drops. This could be really cheap but would not have the perfect geometry.

Realistically I only have about £250 to £300 to spend so I hope you guys can see my predicament. Cheers

I put a tiny amount of grease on the tapers then, using a bit of wood to protect your cranks, lightly tap on the cranks with a hammer. Then tighten with bolts, dont fart etc. I have never had problems with cranks coming loose this way or that horrible "creak" you get when stepping on.

So I have just been looking around to get a good saddle for my new track bike (not a hipster machine) and I idealy wanted something that was light and aero. I cam across these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-TIOGA-SPYDER-SADDLE-lightweight-White?item=190633960021&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6742699445718474015#ht_1579wt_1110
Granted this is from ebay which is where most shit new bike stuff comes from, but I was interested in the design and its frickin cool looks. Has anyone had any experience with these saddles? I have seen a similar thing on BMX bikes but what are they like on the track/road and is it worth the price?

Un dibs

As I said, the bag deal is only if you subscribe through the magazine, you will have to buy Febs edition off the shelf to get the bag deal, sorry If this was unclear. And yes there are a limited number!

hmm, looks like its a race then

Just to let you guys know, Febs cycling active subscription of £25.90 gets u a free Lezyne messenger caddy (and u get the CA magazines for 6 months). So anyone considering a new bag bear this in mind!
Ps I think u have to get febs magazine for this offer

I love the Linseed oil technique, your bike looks real nice and thats the look I am going for... was you bike rusted already or did you sandblast/strip it and let it rust or what?

Spent ages phoning around Trek etc. found out its a Durace Lockring I needed. Just thought I may put that up there for anyone else who has this trouble, it cost about £6 and I can boast I have durace components!

Damn, thought it. Its one of those things you never write down... just said. Lae, thanks for the advice. Paint stripper I think is the best option price wise and effect. What are these "options" of keeping rust off?

What I was asking is how to get the effect, but keep it that way and not compromise the frame, if you get me

I have a fixie that is pretty crap; ebay components, mix match wheels and rusted frame. I got a new one and this has been left redundant and I thought it would be nice to make it into a track bike (not hipster,but proper track etc) as the frame is not bad weight.
My plan is to make it look cool (as with any plan with a bike) and I have seen the weather beaten, rusty baremetal look with weld marks showing. I guess the first place to start is sandblasting the components but then what? What's the best way to get this effect as I really have no idea where to start as most places on the web are useless. Thanks guys, I understand this is a load of gibberish and weirdness.

It is a proper flip flop hub so it has the fixed on one side. Thanks for the advice tough, I will look for those threads

Not really had any. My biggest was going into the garage at 5am to go off to school (the little nip I am) and my bro stole my crank cos he "needed a more pansie gear". His one didn't fit on my chain so I was truly in the shit. So in the end I took his carbon racer to school and locked it up outside in the rain. He never touched my bike again.

Cheers guys. I should try adjusting my saddle (derp) the bike is a little too big for me cos I am only a wee nip and I still have some growing to do so it may not be perfect. But the charge spoon definatly seems to get some hits.

So I got a Trek 2nd District to use for mooching around on to and fro collage and mates houses. However it came with just a single speed cassette and I would like to get it fixed. I used a surly 16t cog (pretty standard) and some lockrings that were lying around. The cog went on no issues but the lockrings (I tried two) just dont seem to go on, they bite and wont go any further. I would hate to but some welly into it with a spanner but shamfering the thread would rite off the whole hub, and thats pricey. So any ideas whats going on? I wanna get my bike fixed soon (pun intended)

Cheers guys

Heya. I recently got a Trek District but I find the saddle naff. I have always been wary of buying a saddle without knowing how it feels. So for just riding in trousers I am unsure where to look as everything is either chunky or pro race, I have heard the Charge spoon is a beute. Price range in the £20's or a bit above

So I am a bit of a retro junkie and love the look (and feel) of Brooks saddles. However, no they have become a fasion item, their price has rocketed. So while searching around I have come across these saddles from Spa cycles:

http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s81p2667 - Nidd
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s81p2668 - Wharfe
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s81p2669 - Aire

These show distinct similarities with the Brooks saddle, the "Nidd" is similar to the B17 and the "Aire" is like the swallow. So what do you guys think of these? Had any experience with something similar?

So I have just bought a Trek 2nd District for more of a practical, pannier holding commuting bike. http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/2nd-district-single-speed-road-bike-ec020771 Now this comes with a single speed cassette and, although a flip flop hub, no fixed sprocket. The dropouts are the fancy sliding dropouts and need help wether a fixed cog will work with this. Can a fixed cog be fitted? if so will I need to keep it 17t, or can this be tensioned easily? I have never experienced these so please share your experience with these dropouts.

Agreed, i have recorded over 4000 miles on my strada (thats road racing and training etc. the ther side of cycling) and it works a dream. Defo the best out there, beats one around £50