Search results for:

Looks really nice. I think black tape and black tyres would be a good shout.
Has the previous owner nabbed a chainring? Also your quick release sqewer is on the wrong way

Looking great, loving the frame pump in there.

Not sure about rules on cable age/date but are you going to get new cables that work nicely or get some old ones to scrimp some pennies?

This is looking nice, good to see you are keeping the gears!

I wouldn't make it single speed, if the gears work well, keep them. I +1 new brake blocks, give it a nice scrub up, maybe a new chain. Wire wool works better than tin foil as Stu said.
If you are going to use it as a commuter nicer tyres and full mudguards would be a sensible option.

This is very interesting indeed, starting to look like less of a rat and something more respectable. I look forward to seeing this finished.

What tooth chainring are you running up front? Is that an mtb cassette on the rear too?

That is truly beautiful. A small voice inside me has always been telling me to swap my modern roadie for a classic steel framed fast machine. This is very inspirational! Campag may have looked more fitting, but Shimano usually wins in terms or performance for money, very wise choice. I have seen too many people with sparkely Veloce dropping chains and thubbing shifts.

I think it's an old school front, built for bigger chain rings. I will give the alivio front a try, have it on the rear so hopefully compatibility will not be a problem.

Hi guys, I know this forum is about the lack of gears... but I have an issue with my gears and hope somebody may be able to help. I have a surly Cross-Check frame but wanted to put mtb kit on there for more "recreational" riding and touring. I don't have the deepest wallet so had to get some cheap stuff. One of these said cheap items is a front derailleur, not sure what model it is (you can have a look at the picture). The issue is that the arm hits the chain stay when I try and get in that lovely 22t little ring. I can move the derailleur up but then shifting becomes awful and I can barely shift at all. Anyone know what the issue is? http://s1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd401/thegiantpeanut/?action=view&current=DSCF0261.jpg

Should I opt for something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-SLX-M661-10-Speed-Triple-Front-Mech-Conventional-/290633226001?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item43ab171711#ht_600wt_1163

Thanks, Loctez

Thanks for the offer but I have just got a groupset from a m8

It's similar to this - but no on the weld - it's also an old steel frame.

]

Yes the image is fucked up, not sure about his frame though

I think you will be hard pushed to get a refund, they will simply say "you over tightened it" or "buy these bars". Check your torque wrench, make sure its not faulty.
I have heard steel bars dent more easily than Alu, I suggest you just tighten it up by hand.

Get the Tektro RL340 brake levers, they work really well with V brakes and they also have a quick release on the lever, useful with V's. I know this isn't you origional question but they are ace

get cloth rim tape, doesn't go tits up when it gets damp like plastic tape does.

If you repair it (that being a steel frame) it will never be as good and will be a weak spot in the bike. You need to seriously weigh up how much the bike is worth to you, and how much it will cost you in the future.

I dont think there is a science to crank bolts, on tour one of my bolts came loose, I didn't have an 8mm key so I just shoved two screwdrivers in there, worked fine. I dont think you need to worry too much about over/under tightening crank bolts on cotterless.

I +1 the clamp idea, if you think about it, the seatube has a deliberate "crack" in it anyway, so if you clamp it should be fine. However, you shouldn't ride a cracked frame, replace it asap.

I have used sticker type frame protectors on my road bike like these http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=29807&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_name=UnitedKingdom.

I am now building up a Surly cross check and would like to protect the frame, but I don't like how the stickers look on the frame and can leave residue. I have however seen these. http://www.decathlon.co.uk/frame-and-hose-protections-id_8043647.html Does anyone know if they are effective or not? Are stick on frame protectors a better option than these hose alternatives?
Cheers

Looking for a 90mm or less long stem with oversize clamp.
Also need some spacers, full set / substantial height would be nice

Thats a bit too pricy for me, as cheap as that is for ultegra

Hi guys, I am attempting to build up a cyclocross bike on the cheap. Does anyone have a gruppo for sale that would be suitable? I dont want anything too beat up but I am looking for something cheap. (preferably STI, but I could work with something else)

I am also looking for a 90mm oversize stem

I need some spacers for my build too

I have some crappy wheels with wide rims and I am trying to get of some marathon plus tyres (25c). With a wide rim and a tire that's about as thick as wayne rooney I am having a massive issue getting the bugger off. After snapping 2 tyre levers trying to lift the bead, I ask is there any unorthodox methods of getting them off? If not... I will throw money at it and take it to my lbs

Hi guys, I know its mostly single speed stuff here but as a member of the forum I thought I would give it a shout. I recently bought an old giant roady with good components but wanna make a cyclcross bike.

Does anyone have a cyclocross/hybrid frame with good geometry knocking about? Thanks

Looking for size 58 or above (60 would be perfect)

Or a stick? My dad has a hook thing lying around for changing the front chain rings before and after a race back when nobody had front dérailleurs. But it should be fairly easy to "shift" with your hands, but I think even with a stick it would be hard whilst moving.

Sorry Micro, I get it now, excuse my ignorance =P