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Thanks for those links! Definitely some interesting reading!
Regarding the decals, it does make my frame sound like a bit of a outlier. I have not seen a Kenevans with the block style downtube decals either.
The stem is just a place holder. You can see half of the seat tube decals here, but thanks to the aero tubing it is rather hard to get a shot.
I've been in touch with Cyclomondo and they are happy to make custom decals, but this will take a month or so as they are over burdened with work. Which means after many photos, measurements and hopefully removed decals the stripping can begins!
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I've never made one of these threads before, but as this is a project that is a little more than bolting parts together I figured I'd make a proper thread for it.
Picked up this frame in the early 2000's when the fixed gear scene was strong in New Zealand. The frame is made by an Australian from Victoria. Both wheels are 700c sized, made from Columbus Air tubing. Which makes me think this frame was made in the early 90's when 700/650 wheels got banned.
I vaguely remember the seller telling me that it was raced by some Australian in the Commonwealth or Olympic Games. Which makes sense as there is an Australian flag with the olympic rings as a decal on the seat tube. But honestly, I have no idea.
Now, about a decade ago cracks started appearing on the side of the seat tube. This can be seen in the photos below.
I tried to get them repaired. First by filling the cracks, then with a small strip of chromoly. Of course neither worked. So I had two choices. Try and get it repaired with brass and risking it cracking again, or placing a full support in. As someone that doesn't believe in wall hangers, I went with the louder latter idea. Here is the result.
The next step is to get decals made up to the orginal specs, then the bogging and sanding begins!
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Its actually ones of these http://cycle.panasonic.jp/products/pos/custom_order/2015/fpc17/ so when the previous owner ordered it, he selected the road version as opposed to the track version. Which means drilled fork and bridge, slightly slacker geometry and cable stops for the rear brake! Handy!
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I haven't done it personally, but I am in the same boat as you and wanted to extend my short threaded steerer into a ahead one.
Theoretically this product exists:
http://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/headset-parts/BHP-21 which can be had on wiggle for around $20.Which gives you something like this:
The good thing about this is that internal bolt you see is threaded, so you can preload the stem with a top cap. If it was me, I would make sure the lower stem bolt is clamping onto the original steerer at least.
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Continuing on with the Japanese theme, I guess this kind of qualifies as a rat. Parts are a touch nice though.
Y7,000 Panasonic frame from Yahoo auctions (http://cycle.panasonic.jp/products/pos/custom_order/2015/fpc17/, mismatched cranks, stripped paint, sealed bearing everything etc etc
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Hey, I don't really contribute much here but as I'm in Melbourne thought I might pitch in my 2 cents.
If you keep your eye out on eBay and NJS Export they sometimes have NJS "Track" frames which are drilled for F/R brakes, as well as having cable guides for the rear. As well as occasionally bottle cage mounts and other braze ons. Another option is scouring Yahoo Auctions, but you'll need a little bit of Japanese reading skills as well as a friend in Japan or be able to use a proxy service.
This is what I ride, as a single speed. Its one of those custom Panasonic frames but for road use http://cycle.panasonic.jp/products/pos/custom_order/2014/fpc16/#step&2 . I picked this up the frame for ~AU$60 off Yahoo Auctions as Japanese frames/components aren't worth as much over there, especially second hand.
Oh forgot to add some things.
- Adding a new fork will probably mess with the geometry of the frame. The forks rake and distance from axle to crown (Forgot the term) will alter all the angles. But not a huge issue.
- Carbon 1 inch track forks are hard to find. Especially threaded ones.
- You will need a new headset going from 27.0 to 26.4 crown race. But that's only ~$100.
I'd say get one of these from the link below:
http://www.njs-export.com/search?q=drilled
Save money on a fork, save money on a headset, looks good and can always change it to a single speed when you get inevitably tired of riding fixed. - Adding a new fork will probably mess with the geometry of the frame. The forks rake and distance from axle to crown (Forgot the term) will alter all the angles. But not a huge issue.
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Been lurking these forums for a better part of a few years now, thought I might post my bike.
[URL="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b398/b3ans12345/DSC_0077_zps34a70238.jpg"][/URL] -
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Acetone, hot air and a stanley knife did the trick!
Removed all the all decals without a hitch