Search results for:

So my plan is to swap the components onto another frame, my original goal was to build a 90's race bike and I think the Brian Rourke/Dave Hinde was a bit too tall and the frame was actually from the late 70's.

So I bought this frame off the forum a few months ago for a song. What attracted it to me was the unusual Reynolds 731os tubing and the wishbone seat stay detail, all fillet brazed together apart from the BB. These appeared to be the mark of a high end frame that was unique.

Doing a bit of research on the forum, it looks like it has changed hands a few times...
I found it on retrobike from 2020 from someone who got it on eBay

Then it looks like @Pancake had it 3 years ago and sold it on

Then it went to @Juice.Bikes I think who I bought it off. It had been resprayed in what is actually a cool paint scheme, however it was with rattle can it looks like, and easily chipped.

Ok hubs have arrived. I actually went for a different model without the cutouts in the hub flange, as I ended up going for Pillar 1432 bladed spokes which have a 1.0x3.0mm profile which require slotted hubs.

I've never hand slotted hubs before, but it was surprisingly easy and didn't need to remove much material actually, took like about 15-20min per hub. I'm running 24h front and back

All done, the spoke holes are more like teardrop shaped now. Minimal amount of material removed
and it was towards the middle of the hub which isn't doing much structurally

Front wheel laced one half, note the internal nipples. They weren't actually that hard to build with if I'm honest. The downside to these is that they require removal of the tyre and tape to true, however as a symmetrical track wheel only ridden on a velodrome it's pretty unlikely they will need frequent truing.

All done!

Yeah it threw me off as well as originally I thought it was 80’s or 90’s because of the dropouts too. I actually asked Rourke cycles and they were surprised at the dropouts but they said likely because the chain stays are really short they used those, they confirmed it was from the late 70’s. 28mm tyres just fit in the back but need to be deflated. Serial is 238 matching fork and frame.

For sale Brian Rourke frame + Forks. £120 Pickup at Elephant and Castle or post at cost.

Tubing is pretty light at 1.9kg for the frame and 0.66kg for the fork, So possibly 531C tubing. I built this up briefly but selling as I changed my mind and bought a different frame to swap components onto. Build thread is here https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/392973/
It was refinished by Dave Hinde, however it is a Brian Rourke frame verified by the shop to be roughly late 70's. It has the signature wrap around seat stays.

• 52cm top tube CTC
  
• 53cm Seat tube CTT
  
• English BB good threads
  
• 130mm rear spacing
  
• 27.2mm seatpost
  
• Campagnolo dropouts
  
• Tyre clearance 700x28mm
  
• I think this was originally a 27" frame so the brake drop is about 52mm, I can chuck in some Centaur brakes that work or if you're not using Campag can thrown in some Tektro ones for an extra £15.
  
  

Graham Weigh Track bike £200. Pickup at Elephant and Castle or post at cost. SOLD

This is a Reynolds 853 track frame, drilled for brakes. Very tight aggressive handling with tight clearances. Paint is average with plenty of chips but no real dents that I can see and runs straight. I've bought this frame a while back from the forum and built it up, learnt how to ride track on it and raced it a few times. I've replaced my frame so am now selling it. See the story here https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/388315/

Full Specs

• 51cm top tube ctc 49cm seat tube ctc
  
• Nitto B123 NJS steel bars w/ Supacaz tape
  
• 105 Headset
  
• Andel 165mm crankset w/ Shimano UN300 BB (super smooth)
  
• Miche 48t Chainring Miche 15t Sprocket and YBN Chain (both brand new)
  
• Mavic Open Sport rims to Quando hubs
  
• Continental Attack 22mm tyres, very low mileage plenty of life left.
  
• Thomson 27.0mm Seatpost and Selle Italia saddle
  
  

Rode this on Monday at training and wow what a difference. I felt I could easily tuck into a similar position and could get a decent bend on the arms, much more spacious and sprinting felt a lot more comfortable. Definitely noticed my glutes were getting more of a workout as I think my hip angle was more open. Managed to get a PR on a single lap which was good, but not quite able to break 60km/h peak speed though... but I'll keep trying!

Plans for wheels... Im not going to go to deep carbon rims for now. I'm on a bit of a budget so decided to go with a shallow alloy rim with some budget hubs.

• Polso hubs from Aliexpress
  
• DTSwiss A510 rims 24h front & back
  
• Pillar bladed spokes
  
• Veloflex Record TLR tyres. These are the second fastest tyres on https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com
  Rims have arrived, although I didn't realise they are drilled for internal nipples... so I ordered the wrong spoke length.
  
  
  
  
  Mounted these on the rims to check width, they come out at 25.6mm which should fit OK on the frame. Hubs and spokes still on the way. The plan is to run these tubeless for the lowest rolling resistance, it should gain about 10w @30km/h so even more at typical race speeds.
  

Beautiful bike! I've also got a 2.8 and managed to squeeze in 28mm Michelin Power cups, they actually measure at 29.6mm with OK clearance.

Beautiful bikes, great work!

Looks amazing, love fillet brazed frames.

Ok, mocked it up with my old wheels

Haha, they are a generic open mould handlebar you can get on Aliexpress. However I sourced them from https://www.brookscycles.co.uk/product/carbon-endurance-bar-330mm/ as I wanted some kind of warranty/customer service. I also have the 310mm version which is not on their website yet...

Obligatory weigh in...

Also some clues on the fork, looks like a 2015 model. Can't seem to find much more info apart from this link. I'm pretty sure Planet X just used some kind of open mould http://xds-carbon.com/services-en.html

Ok, so I've fitted the bars to the frame now.

Still quite a lot of steel frames to be honest, there is one guy with a beautiful Cherubim actually.

I should stick some wax on them, did that on my other bike which had some bare polished alloy cranks. I rode the new position on the bike last night, will write a bit more in a bit. But yes generally better!

Also I started racing this year, I was intending to do it last year but I had a back injury which stopped me from training. So far have managed to get points and place in the top 3 in the two rounds I've raced in. Handlebars have been changed to Nitto B123, which are a super deep traditional track drop.

However after looking at this photo of myself, I think the frame is too small for me. The bars are too low and too close, I do feel cramped when sprinting and my arms are locked out which is not good. Track riding aero has come a really long way and what people are running are super narrow handlebars and long reach which helps you stretch out and stay low.

So I decided to look at getting a new frame, in particular one that is one size up, say about 54cm top tube as the Graham Weigh is absolutely tiny, 51.5cm or so. Also it will have to be a modernish frame set with a threadless headset which allows the most choice with handlebars.

So I picked this up... only ridden at an indoor velodrome. It's not drilled for brakes so is a pure track frame.

Oh and picked up some new handlebars... these are 31cm wide

It's been a while since I updated this thread, but I've actually gone on to do training and race accreditation at Herne Hill. Also made some minor mods, I managed to find some Dura Ace FC-7600 NJS stamped cranks which I stripped and polished

They paired perfectly well with a Campag Centaur BB, I read from differing sources that the taper on these DA cranks is not JIS, in any case this BB gave a 42mm chainline and the tapers fit snugly just right.

It's a bit of a secret project which I'll probably start a thread on it, I got a 90's fillet brazed Reynolds 731 OS frame with wishbone seat stays, it has bugger all clearance say max 25mm. Thus I had to sell the tyres on this bike and the plan is to respray that frame and swap all the bits from the Dave Hinde onto it. I have Vittoria Corsa Pro TLR in 24mm which fit nicely.

These were bought off Aliexpress about a year ago, and have had about 600km on them. Work perfectly fine, I just decided I prefer the factory Campag brakes on my CAAD. I have upgraded the brake holder hardware with black titanium bolts and washers as the ones that come with it are shite. Weight is as claimed at ~180g for the pair. Normally would pay about £100ish landed so asking £65 posted. SOLD

Pair of Continental GP5000 All Season TR 700x28mm in skin wall. I bought these for a project but had a change of mind and swapped frame, these are just too big to fit with the frame I have. Only 200km or so on these, so near new. Normally £60-80 per tyre, asking £100 for the pair posted SOLD

These are the stickiest tyre on the market! Great all round tyre see review https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/continental-grand-prix-5000-as-tr-28

Alternately can do pickup at Elephant and Castle or Central London around Warren St.

Yeah I can vouch for this. I've done this myself, even with a torque wrench I think I just had bad luck and the soft plastic in the body just gave way... This meant an entirely new shifter.

Otherwise great project so far! I have always loved the Slate, way ahead of it's time when it was released and under appreciated.

Is it just me or is it noticeable in the past year or so, the amount of suicidal riders on dodgy e-bikes (usually food delivery) has really spiked? I’ve lost count of how many have run red lights full charge into intersection traffic without even pausing to look to give way to the traffic which has a green. Ditto goes with Lime bikes, people without the skills or awareness of regular riders but with more power.

dibs

On this generation of Campag hubs the DS cone is pressed onto the axle. NDS is threaded for adjustment.

Yeah tbh I was not sure about replacing cups but it is totally possible. I used to think that if the cup was pitted the hub was basically toast!

Yeah that's basically it. The rear DS spokes need to be brought up high enough so you can get an OK tension on the NDS, so that ends up being reasonably high 120kgf ish. This is pretty high so need to avoid concentrating too much stress on the rim, so the nipple washers help with this , much like eyelets in the old days. The NDS and front spokes don't need to have such high tension so nipple washers are just unnecessary. Weight not really a consideration as they don't even weigh much.

In this case the 130mm OLD spaced wheels with 9-11sp cassettes generally are about as bad as you get with the amount of dish. Modern 135/142mm OLD spaced wheels are better in this regard.

And now for the finished pics

Ok bit of an update. I was having some issues with the headset as it's quite badly indexed, divots on the bearing races. This was exacerbated on this bike, due to the steep 74º head angle, any notchiness on the steering was really obvious. Not all the parts are easily available NOS so I had to make do and went ahead with replacing the races is one of the cups as they appeared to interchange with other models.

NOS Athena (but the early 90's one) on the left and original Mid 90's Athena indexed one on the right. Races have been removed, luckily my bearing press for some reason is a perfect interference fit with the races, I did this accidentally when installing the cups into the head tube in the past.

NOS Race going into the original cup... fits perfectly! Only the outer alloy cup is different in appearance but fits the same race. Bearing press for sealed bearing hubs came into use again as it fit more or less...

And I have a basically new cup with NOS race... I had to replace the entire upper cup and also the crown race as these were indexed with NOS versions.

You can totally strip the 11sp ultra shift right down. It's actually not hard at all. I've one it several times now. check my thread https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/384608/?offset=50

The Athena 11s shifters, I have stripped down the power shift ones, but have had trouble getting them to downshift (release cable) smoothly if I'm honest. The ultrashift version (2010 only) are identical to Chorus/Record 11sp