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Check your PM Tanya.

I saw a dodgy looking guy wheeling a bike missing a front wheel this morning in the east end, looked quite odd.

Yeah it's a 23.15mm extractor thread which is different to the T.A extractor. Not actually that hard to find, Spa cycles stocks them for £27
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b217s0p0

Good luck with the sale

Does anyone know a way to quick release dynamo lights? I've seen the QR bolts but the wire is the problem since it is fixed to the light.

I'll soon have 2 bikes with dynamo hubs and would rather not have to rewire all the time. I have a good light I'd like to use it on both bikes instead of forking out for a second one. It would also help to prevent theft.

I guess a normal spade connector could work but those are usually shrink wrapped to keep out rain - not sure if it would be good to expose the electrical connection to the elements?

Shimano & Sturmey Archer use a plastic block slip on connector which is more or less waterproof. I've never had a problem with either in heavy rain. It just slips on and off very easily and it's made for repeated disconnect/connections, I wouldn't worry about it. SON hubs use spade connectors.
http://sheldonbrown.com/images/nexus-wiring.jpg

Also not to mention 4 batteries to recharge...
well I guess the upside is if you wanted to you could hack it so you could shift your opponent's bike into the big ring as a hill is coming up hehe

I would say it's mostly due to the fact that they're oil lubricated, and oiling them flushes the dirt outwards rather than inwards. Unlubricated AW hubs don't last donkeys years!

So the conclusion is that we should all be running old Campagnolo Record hubs with oil ports, and dribbling oil into them before every ride.

I was going to add that too, although it's probably a combination of both. Even ones that aren't maintained and left mostly outside seem to last a long time, I've taken apart a few of them.

Hehe, I do miss oil/grease ports generally on bikes though.

Fortunatefool, don't you mean AW not AM hubs :)

I'll second/third/fourth the above. The 3 speed AW is ubiquitous, cheap, plenty of spares are available and you only need very basic tools to open one up and service them. Built very solidly and very low maintenance.

Interesting reading
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/ceramic-bearings

Personally, I think for longevity it's more important to keep your bearings maintained and properly adjusted. Old Sturmey Archer hubs last donkeys years, mostly due to good labyrinth seals.

Hi are the TA Pro-Vis chainrings/cranks for sale in the pictures?

agreed, a little bit of an imprint on the flanges is normal with old hubs. But the actual spoke holes should still be round and circular. perhaps the OP can post some pics?

I've used modern teflon lined compressionless housing meant for index shifters with Sturmey 3-speed stuff in the past and it's perfect. I would guess brake cable would still work fine as well, the tolerances are quite loose with Sturmey 3 speed stuff.

Yes, seconded with benbrangwyn. Check the hub itself is ok and pull on the rod to make sure the hub is ok, flip the pedals round back and forth if you have the bike on the ground as it won't shift under load. It's rare that the older 3 speed hubs go bad internally, usually they are out of adjustment or gunked up inside. Give it a few drops of motor oil or ATF fluid (avoid 3-in-one or sewing machine oil as they are too thick) in the oil port. Watch out for any excess fluid spilling out behind the sprocket running all over the braking surface.

Yeah, I would just forget it, if it's pear shaped that sounds like the spoke heads may have deformed the spoke holes in hub flanges - never seen it but it may have been through excessive tension I would guess and possibly a soft alloy??? I'm guessing these are quite old hubs? Are they even alloy?

I would guess if the spoke holes can be deformed by the spokes, the most likely method of failure would be the hub flange breaking or something similar...

I've got the Dia-Compe ratcheting friction shifters and I think they are probably one of the best I've used so far. I used to have Shimano 600 retrofriction (the type with the clutch mechanism inside) as well as Dura Ace EX ones too for comparison; the ratcheting type gives enough resistance against the derailleur spring to prevent slipping out of gear but gives a easy smooth lever action.

One tip for easier friction shifts is to use a narrower chain. I've used an 8 and 9 speed chain on standard 7 speed clusters and it gives it a lot more tolerance and much less need for trimming. Only thing to watch out for is that the chain doesn't fall between the chainrings on some older cranks.

Right now I'm running a 7 speed cluster with 9 speed spacing with a 9 speed chain. If you want to know why have a look: http://smutpedaller.blogspot.com/2011/06/giving-old-hubs-new-breath-of-life-part.html

I was surprised at how easy the shifting is, practice helps a lot as well. Oh yeah, also make sure you use modern teflon lined gear housings which are meant for indexed systems, the older type housings have a larger internal diameter which gives the cable too much slack and makes trimming difficult.