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I just upgraded to the Garmin Rally RS200, so far so good. Ridden about 400km on them so far, no dropouts and accuracy seems in line with my trainer. Turns out I have left leg imbalance, I thought my right would be stronger but seems it’s the left. Annoying thing is a lot of the Garmin pedalling dynamics is not recorded by Wahoo computers.

I have had a Power2max NGeco for about 4 years and loved this but wanted to be able to use it on all my bikes. Selling it here if anyone is interested https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/397891/#comment17455265

Heya this is the newer Rotor crank system. Crank arms are the Vegast or Aldhu types, in various versions.

The spider spline is the same for both 24mm and 30mm axles. You only have to match the crank arms with the axle (Aldhu24 with a 24mm axle, and the Aldhu 30mm version with 30mm axle etc..)

Assembly is a doddle, no special tools required. The spider sits on a DS flange of the axle, the DS arm is then fixed on top of this with a 10mm hex key, this clamps down the spider onto this flange which fixes it in place. The NDS arm is then fixed to the other side and has bearing preload ring.

It’s a great system and I have 2 sets of them myself.

I’m selling my trusty Power2max NGeco power meter, after buying this new in 2020 I’ve upgraded to power meter pedals so have no use for this. Works perfectly and have just updated this to the latest firmware. This model is known for being rock solid reliable and accurate and the whole time I’ve had it, I’ve never had any issues with it.

Comes with the original box and some spare batteries. Battery life is actually quite good at 300-400hrs. Just add a pair of Rotor crank arms, axle and some chainrings and off you go

Asking £200 and can post for a £5. Pickup Elephant and Castle or around Warren St during business hours

Also, @ElGonzo you have a beautiful Vigorelli, should have it's own thread too!

Hey @ElGonzo great to meet you as well! Awesome to see other LFGSS members hitting the track!

Paint job was done by Blue Whippet up in Stoke on Trent. They’re connected with Rourke cycles. Funnily enough got onto them because I asked about the old Dave Hinde frame and saw they did refinishing. Happy with their work and they were very attentive.

Ok I built this up now with the old parts. Love these older bikes, it literally took me like 2-3 hours to do a full build from a bare frame. No chance these days with integrated everything, electronics blah blah. I swapped the saddle out for a white one to give it those 90's vibes. Seems to work better than black! Nice to have a bike with barely any black on it, only white and polished!

Tyres have been changed to Vittoria Corsa Pro TLR in 24mm, as it will struggle to clear any larger. Ride quality is surprisingly good, in fact I think these are much more supple casing than the GP5000 AS TR given they are narrower. Also just love the ribbed tread pattern look and gumwalls, looks vintage even though they are thoroughly modern and setup tubeless!

Oh and I also took some photos in the nice sunset.

Frame is back from the painters. I decided to go with a Citroen base colour called Amerindian Blue but with a clear coat with a slight red flip.

The original fillet braze job was a bit "blobby" so while they did do a bit of smoothing and filling to it, to make it fully smooth would have been quite a big task. It's not perfectly smooth but I kind of feel it adds to the character a bit. The colour flip is quite hard to photograph but it's more obvious in sunlight and at certain angles. I also got a front derailleur braze on brazed on as well as a second set of bottle cage mounts.

Nice wheels, although do you mean Novatec in the title?

So, I'm a bit of a typography nerd. So I didn't like the original typeface that was used you can see above, it looks a it unconsidered. I did a few options for the typeface for the downtube logo

I decided on the 2nd one in "Blank's Script" which I edited in Illustrator and printed out for testing for size/position


Same with the Reynolds 731OS logo which is not so easy to find! My aim is to go for a pretty minimal downtube decal and a tubing one on the seat tube with nothing else.
I got the decals printed out in mirror finish, originally thought maybe white, but I like the shinyness and will suit all the shiny components.

Updated with track bike for sale now

I've decided to get the frame properly repainted, as cool as this paint job is, it's flaking off already which is why it was so cheap.

Some inspo/mood pics. I have a light blue metallic in mind, perhaps with a flip/pearl finish?

Here's a bit of a mockup with the bits from the old bike

I swapped out the brakes for late 90's Chorus ones, I love these ones as they have a hidden bolt detail with the shape of the arms very sinuous and flowy.

Tyre clearance is tiiigght. No more than 25mm so pretty correct for race frame from this period.

Took it for a spin and rides beautifully, bit less twitchy than the Rourke, and also is a bit more aggressive.

One more pic, with everyone's gurn face included

Haha really? Was that in particular aimed at me? I was actually coming second overall by round 2 in any case. Although admittedly it probably would have been a bit of a change from the last round to see I had completely changed my whole bike, outfit and setup in the space of one month.

I assume it's for Vets League as I haven't raced Wed ESG Track league before, although I think I have more confidence to give it a go. May give it a go in the C's and see how it is as I'm not sure how much of a difference there is with Vets C.

I actually got a response from HHV about tubeless and they said they had no specific policy, but also stated that there was no real benefit.
I guess they don't have a membership to https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com 😉

Thanks for the compliments guys!

I didn't think so many people would find this interesting. I realised it's been a while and I've come a long way since first doing a taster session at HHV in late 2022. I then went on to do training accreditation and then race accreditation mid last year. I had an injury around that time which stopped me from riding much and only started doing serious training at the beginning of 2024, so being bumped up to B grade after 6 months feels like an achievement.

I used to see the guys training at the track on Saturday mornings and thought they looked really hardcore not that long ago! Now I'm one of those weirdos with super narrow handlebars :)

Back to the thread topic, I actually got some photos from one of the photographers at the track that day, nice to see photos of yourself, but mostly because I like to analyse my position!

Pretty happy with my best impression of a bunched up ball here. Second pic I could probably tuck my elbows in a bit more, but overall seem like I have a much better more aero position than before.

Also in other news, I have officially been promoted to Cat B.

That's really interesting insight, as I think it's what I suspected that it seems to be more slanted towards litigation rather than establishing some kind of formalised safety standard. In any case at HHV, it's basically a road surface anyway as it's asphalt and can be covered with leaves, ice and cracks from expansion joints, so seems reasonable to use road tyres at an outdoor.

Yeah I’ve read that whole thread on Lee Valley actually and understand why they have to be strict, although I guess there are other safety checks as well eg. should be using lock rings, tubs glued on properly etc.

Single compound and slick make sense, tho I guess ultimately in my mind the criteria for what is a suitable track tyre seems a bit fuzzy if it’s relying on a manufacturer’s literature, what criteria are they using? Is it an EN ISO standard? Or is there some independent sporting body that certifies it like the UCI? Just doesn’t seem that clear to me to be honest.

Ultimately rider safety is key but personally I don’t put a lot of trust in manufacturers saying it’s suitable. There should be some kind of more tangible standard like most other things regarding safety.

Yeah normally I will use a bit of sealant on initial setup, however once it seals (varies with setup) in my experience they are airtight from then onwards. They do tend to lose air more quickly than a tubed tyre but less than latex. I also tend to rely on tubeless plugs as well in the event of a flat, as I find they are much more effective than depending on sealant alone.

Yeah I think that may be one of the few ones that is marketed for track although in this context for tubeless/clincher tyres it's not clear to me what that actually means other than a marketing term.

Haha I knew someone would find me! Thanks! I'm not sure how the move works, as in Round 1 someone got moved automatically by the organisers. So let's see!

Funny you say that about the gearing, I was finding I was hitting a wall with max speed at my previous gearing (about 94") and I felt it was a bit hard to get over this gear sometimes, but the change to a slightly lower gear (91") I think actually helped increase this when tested in training.

Bit of a race report from tonight:

This round not only did I completely change my bike and position, also dropped the gearing a smidge and swapped out the chain for a waxed YBN SLA410 (tested as the fastest 1/8" chain on friction facts). Gearing used to be 49x14 (94") down to 54x16 (91"). Also went all out and bought a nopinz skin suit and wore my aero overshoes.

Last two rounds I would normally place in the top 3, but could never win a race as was always beaten at the line, usually by a fair bit. This round had 4 races: Scratch, Keirin, Win out and Points. I managed to win the first three, and I think I won the points as well (wasn't counting!). Overall I came first tonight, pretty stoked as I have never won any kind of bike race before. Mind you this is Vets Cat C, so not the fastest category by a long shot but I'm still new to this.

This was my first time racing with this bike, I've run it in practice a few times. Feels a lot more comfortable and definitely more aero as I can feel I can tuck much better but have a more open hip angle. With my previous setup, I was getting frustrated as my max speed would hit a wall at about 59km/h. This race I managed to get to 63km/h max speed, so super happy with that!

My partner took a video of me crossing the line, so much happier with this position. Definitely more comfortable with my arms bent and felt way more aero. Getting used to the super narrow bars, I really like the extra positions, the long low tuck works really well.
Video here

Oh and I won a mug!

Main thing is because these tyres are faster tubeless, they are the 2nd fastest tyre on bicyclerollingresistance.com. I'll see what HHV says, but don't think I'd lose much speed running TPU or Latex. I run tubeless on almost all my bikes so a big fan of it.

Yeah I've just shot them an email. I can imagine sealant being an issue if you get a flat, but if you run it dry I'm not sure how it is any worse than running clinchers. If anything a tubeless tyre when used with a tubeless rim is harder to demount than a clincher when flat. Even then in my 8 or so years of running tubeless, my experience is that they tend to deflate quite slowly, as opposed to conventional clinchers which tend to deflate instantly when punctured

I did a bit of research on 731os as I never heard of it before. Turns out it's a rare tube set that was only made for a few years in the early 90's and was eventually superseded by the modern tubesets which could be welded like 853 and 631. So basically what I can gather 731os is basically a 531 that has been heat treated and has ribs on the inside of the tubes at the ends. Also as the name implies it's oversize sizing.

Had a look down the seat tube and you can see the ribbing here at the bottom... so definitely 731 OS. Also it's very light at 1.6kg and 620g for the fork. Also it's very stiff, so feels like it's heat treated and won't be easily cold settable.