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Entertainingly I ordered a pair of those very extensions today, what I don't know is how my position will work with them
I'd be very interested to learn how you get on and what you think of the quality, I'm thinking of going for these for a tt build because of their adjustability and price.
Only downside I can see is weight, which isn't massively important on a tt bike, not as important as position anyway.
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Your aero bars look quite high, do you think you'd be better off with something that mounts closer to the bar, like this, with the extensions underneath?
You'd probably be 2-3 inches lower on the front that way, though you'd probably want to bring your saddle forward if possible to maintain hip angle and avoid being too stretched out
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Properly super cool woman, not on her bike at the moment:
http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=69360&#entry973904Typical tester!
*"It was a shame that I couldn't finish the race. I had paced it well to the turn so I had enough gas left for the return leg."
*
Lucky to be alive by the sounds of it, maybe a "get well soon" from everyone on here wouldn't go amiss? -
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There's a problem with the back wheel alignment in general. Can't work out what the hell is going on with the wheel as everything seems to measure up ok. Pics to follow......
The back wheel was re dished and centralised by a local LBS before fitting.
The wheel may be dished centrally but it is not spaced evenly. Hence why the freewheel (or the whole hub in fact) is too far to the left.
In this picture you can see a large spacer which will be there to give room for a freewheel cluster. You need two spacers half the width of this one and rebuild the hub with one either side, then get it redished to centre. This should sort any chainline problems out.
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Ugh, reading comp is not a prized skill here i see...
No, I havn't thought of reading as a 'prized skill' since I was about 4
What i'm trying to say is, by the time you've bought a carbon fork and seatpost and fitted headset etc, you'll have probably spent over £200 anyway, and you'll be left with a frameset with little re-sale value and mediocre ride, which will probably weigh a lot more than advertised, and with no geometry information.
Edit: This thread is about building a light bike, which is why the OP is going for a Seta. We were recommending the Pre-cursa to you, although if the end goal was to get the Seta aswell, why not just save up for a bit longer, and avoid the hassle/expense of re-selling a frameset?
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That's the site I found with a quick google, I do like the look of them. I don't mind taking a bit of material from the cranks, was thinking of doing the Jeff Jones look-a-like thing to them anyway (minus the drilled holes - mine are lx)
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The difference between 31:17 and 32:18 is even smaller than you think.
I wasn't clear - I meant the difference between 26" and 29" using same components (32:18)
I hadn't thought about the wear thing before, next time I replace bits i'll have a look for a 31t, are they available for standard 104bcd cranks? I'd always assumed the smallest they went was 32t due to material between bolt holes and the edge and chain clearance.
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Eurosport commentator just summed him up quite nicely
"A world of bedlam inside a small cyclist"