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Not 100% convinced that will work, if it was condensation then it will still condense on the wall, the plaster just wont get damp, stuff will still go mouldy.

there was a fight over an Eames model a stool which was an interesting watch

lol, the potential to grab an eames model a stool was the only reason I contemplated going. Glad I didn't!

you need to find the source of the damp before just painting over it

Nothing on the other side of the wall thats obvious? blown render, gutters etc?Otherwise it is probably condensation forming on cold walls

that GS is so so good

You have a pelegos 39 as well don't you? I think if there was a dream 2 watch collection that would be pretty much it for me.

source? it's completely opposite to everything I've read online and in this thread so genuinely curious

doesnt lime produce an exothermic reaction rather than 'needing' heat to set.

Thanks, they come recommended so I'll go with them in that case.

is £144 expensive or about right for a gas safety check and boiler service? (1 boiler + 1 gas hob)

I know tiles should have a perimeter expansion gap and they're 'glued' to the underfloor, infact here it states cork should as well ?

dont know anything about cork but do you need to leave an expansion gap?

A grand for a tap 😮‍💨. Bet it still starts to leak after 5 years or so

hm, I'm not sure, the pipe was still very much bending at quite an angle so I dont think it would ever be a particularly good fit. The pipe has also been crushed and has a crease in it (probs while trying to tighten it to get a decent connection on a bend).

Last night so I could go to bed I removed it all, connected up a push fit T to the copper pipe and reconnected to the rad with some PEX. Parts I luckily had from replacing a tap!

Will probs get a plumber in but what's the proper fix?

Not sure why it only just started leaking but oh my god I am not surprised. Olive compression fitting on a bend, yeeehawww

what are you doing for roof for the bit half way down the alley? cant work out how that will work if you're going to boundary edge and extension out back is pitched, will the alley also be pitched with a gutter right at boundary?

Nobody on our road has built a dormer extension, unsure why. If we do just the downstairs we end up with a very generous kitchen diner/ living room but remain 2 bed so unsure if the outlay is worth it. Do you know what % of the cost is for downstairs extension?

would you mind sharing your plans? we have the exact same layout and also the same side access and contemplating an extension.

shout out to whoever said to run the outdoor tap to drain the system

Want to replace the equal tee's as they don't inspire as much confidence compared to the JG pushfit I used for the elbows but that would involve replacing 4 bits of copper as well. Maybe another time..

I'm really happy with my community fibre connection and its way cheaper than VM and got 6 months free but somewhat disappointed they flat out refused to even try drilling the hole through our alcove cupboards and then outside so we're stuck with it on the wall just outside the cupboard when it could have been hidden away neatly.

Small thing but still

mains, no tank.

Yes I do have an outside tap

We have rabbits so similar

We can’t compost all of it but during the summer every other week gets used on the compost. Can also just use their litter weekly which is high in nitrogen. They tend to poop in one place so easy to empty just litter. Guinea pigs tend to just shit everywhere right? Harder to separate it out amongst the hay and sawdust etc but it would count as a ‘green’.

Sawdust takes a while to break down too so avoid as much as poss

I will be as that’s the hot and cold pipe so I will need to do both anyway

Want to replace tap in kitchen.

I believe the current flexi hose terminates with a male end piece. New tap came with female connector.

flexi hose (female) > male isolation valve > copper pipe, correct?

Anything to bear in mind when I take the old flexi hose off? As there is no isolation valve anywhere near, just the main stop cock I assume there could be a lot of water?

Will the old compression nut come off okay? Or might I need to cut the copper pipe?

Want to make sure I have everything required to avoid not having water. Due to the current lack of isolation valve if I fuck it up then no water for whole house :)

Remember reading Kamakura shirts shrink? Size up?

Yeah just didn’t know to ask him specifically if he’d calculated it at the time or just done a finger in the air. I was expecting him to come round fit some new lights and re run some cables so there was enough slack to go on top of the new insulation rather than under as I’d read that was the ‘proper’ way to do it.

When he said no need, I didn’t think/ know to ask at the time.

Thanks, I suppose smartest thing to do would be get an electrician round to test/ tell me the current limit / how close to it my circuit is.

It’s such a pig of a job that I don’t want to have to rip it all up or constantly worry my house is going to go up in flames

Relevant article:

https://www.voltimum.co.uk/articles/cables-spaces-containing-thermal#:~:text=Requirements%20of%20BS%207671,be%20covered%20by%20thermal%20insulation.

So I’ve already asked this before but want to be 100% sure before I do the job.

Want to put an extra 200mm of fibreglass insulation over the top of existing which would include going over the top of cables. Existing insulation is 100mm and already over cables.

Reading mixed things online some day it’s not regulation to do so, others say it’s fine so long as the wire is derated or is over specced already. Electrician who came round said it would be fine but again seems like someone else could say otherwise and I’d rather not burn my house down..

The fact it is nailed to timber in most places is supposedly beneficial at helping dissipating heat.

Cables are mostly for lighting and one electrical shower cable

Ideal solution would be to rewire so cables can sit ontop of new insulation but ££ and previous electrician didn’t fancy the job/ said it wasn’t needed.

Thoughts?

See Pics:

steel fencing pins?