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Providing I can get time off work I'll be up for these rides.

I live in bolsover and have only ever seen 1 fixed rider (other than my mate) riding in Chesterfield.

Where abouts do you live?

What do you do for the bike to need to be the legal weight?

How serious do you need to be in racing for them to weigh your bike?

Where can you get these thick slicks from? I can't seem to find them anywhere, found a list of sizes but can't order them :/

I think my new job has me overtraining too. Trying to ignore the fact

Wish I had time to train with my work stuff :/

What's the best way to train for 10 and 25 mile tt's?

Ride them and learn the course while your there, generally build fitness, hill climbs to build power and some turbo stuff?

That's the plan - note it won't be hard core training more like just general riding :) just may as well do the right stuff when I can

AND KEEP OFF THE FAGS!!!!!!!

Whats that size as a proper thing them, mtb 26" with tyres measured in c? Like 29ers?

What's the advantage over 700c?

That bike further up looks gorgeous, image saved :D

The gatorskin hardshell is claimed to be 60g lighter though? (220 as opposed to 280)

Is it any better? What about the ultimo dd 235g?

All meant to have good puncture protection and grip in all weathers

I've only ever road gatorskin,gator hard-shells, vittorio rubino - rubbish standard tyres that punctured quick and were wired so heavy. Other than I've had Michelin dynamics which I struggled with as they didn't offer much grip.

The White bike on page 2 with Easton stem + bars and fsa spacers, what is that tape? Don't they do it without the White stitching? Looks like a good sweat absorbing material for my none gloved hands

^^up there too

In an ideal world I'd build a winter bike/commuter (or makes my dads giant suit me), have the GT for nice weather commuting/club rides, build a tt bike and keep the fixie :)

Then I'd have 3 potential commuters to mix it up and only 1 that lives at home, to be fair though I've got inside parking at 2 out of 3 jobs and the other is secure, so the tt bike would only have chance to get scratched at 1 job.

I need money for this though so at the minute it's the GT getting the miles, the fixie is getting painted then I'll have 2 that I can ride, maybe chuck guards on that and it's the wet weather bike

Well this thread just highlights how shite the wrapping I did is! Cut it the wrong way when finishing for some reason - and the bar end doesn't sit properly!!

Lycra it is then :) cheers

Thanks for the advise people :D

I'm actually only going to spend only the money I make from selling bike parts - so far £8 hahaha

Yeah I really enjoyed it, Lycra and the bike in light weight mode next time :) sub 30 is the obvious first aim, then see how we go.

Will tri bars actually make that much of a difference? Or would warmer Lycra instead of jeans and a hoodie? Although I could convince my mum to get me Lycra and me pay for tri bars.........

No chain line won't be right with a single speed wheelset

Love it!! Just the sort of bike I need......(well want)

Ive just my first TT, let's get some more pictures up to make opening my wallet easier ;)

Just done my first 10 mile TT. Love it! Was slow (30:58) but that's an excuse for fancy bike parts right? ;)

What do people do with there puncture repair kit/tools? Hope nothing happens? Carry a bit in the jersey? Any other trick bits folk do to save time/weight/areoness?

Looking good :D wish I had the balls to sand carbon!!!

Good ridge cables are cheap??

Rear spacing is 126mm,

And possibly, but then I'd need to re-dish the wheel :/

Following on from that a longer screw for where you adjust the drailier closeness to the wheel?

Or would a long screw move it closer??

Mine weren't bolts, and grindy grindy is loads more fun ;)

Mine skids fine, with a seriously shite chain line - 130mm hub, pull the frame apart to get it in cos there 126 spacing with a cog screwed onto the freewheel threads

Would it be possible to put a 120mm hub on and just squeeze the frame as you tighten the hub up?

I've got an rc brake of a bianchi, tis fine, the original also worked fine. Frames a 59, 5cm to big, but I didn't know about road bike fitment back then

http://passionford.com/forum/restorations-rebuilds-and-projects/381487-project-single-speed-bike.html

Thats the start of my build, took pictures but never got round to updating it :(

I'd go with a very pale pastel sort of colour, green, blue, yellow etc :)

Get the grinder out and take that inner ring off!!!!!

I run 52-20, about 70gi, I can get up 16% hills, and I'm not amazing on a bike.

Just check you've got enough width to run 26" wheels, and what you doing about brakes???

Old steel road bike - Italian of some description
Old steel bike, like a blue colnargo, with modern parts but some old skool, silly expensive campag parts
Cannon dale caad5 - the frames are so sexy!!!!!!
Stupid fast tt steel bike
Fixed lo pro
Modern alu winter bike
Fat bike
29er, rigid ss
Hybrid built proberly from a bianchi absolutely slammed stem with riser bars - a hhsb with gears basically
And a edison cycles bike, custom built, as it's just down the road from me

The thing leading me towards getting the cannon dale first is I can't help but ride them, if I had the colnargo of my dreams I'd want to ride it every day and it'd get dirty. Maybe if I got 2............

Where does this end??????

I would like my year 2000 Marin Bearvalley built up like I have the hawk hill with some magura rim brakes, kona p2 forks, ultra wide bars and the yellow/orange paintjob, all the parts that weren't bars/forks/seatpost would be silver and anodized red (especially on the rim breaks).

Other than that a alloy colnago.

I know somebody that's got a completely original Marin bear valley, £100 would tempt him lots for it not to be his.........