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In the aerial photo you've taken the excess strap needs to be fed through the top hole. You'll probably find that it still flaps about so an elastic band will be helpful

Thanks! This worked, but for some reason it wasnt tight enough for the webbing to slide out after being tucked in.

So i fed it back again, but through the lower hole this time. Causing it to overlap the stitched part of the webbing. Now its loose enough for quick adjust, and tight enough to prevent it from sliding around.

Hope this makes sense in my crappy english. :)

I have recently bought a Chrome Citizen bag from a friend, and i like it pretty much so far. But the one thing bothering me is the long excess strap. It seems like the plastic buckle at the end, is supposed to take care of this. But either i am too stupid to figure it out, or it is in someway not sitting properly in the buckle.

I have attached pictures and a drawing, trying to illustrate the problem. On the drawing the black part is the buckle seen from the top, if it was "cut in half" and the blue part is the strap.

It seems to me that the strap was previously fed in and out of the buckle. But i cant seem to figure out how.

Thanks in advance

These?

Or these?

Or perhaps these?

First two pairs doesnt have a spring, afaik and looks like low quality. I dont like the "bar plug" styles either. But thanks for the answer.

Basicly im looking for something like shimano bl-r550, but with a more classic/retro look.

I'm rebuilding an old roadbike, and im almost done. I just need brake levers, which seems to be harder than expected.

I have changed the handlebars from drop bars, to northroad/porteur style like these:

But i'm having trouble finding some levers for it. I figured i have two possibilities:

1: "drop bar style" levers, mounted in the bend. But then they will be hard to reach.

2: Buy flatbar levers, and mount them just after the bend. This seems to be the best solution, but all the flatbar levers i can find, looks too new. I need some that matches an old benotto, with suntour groupset and tan walls. I have found some used levers, but they are so old, they dont have a spring in the lever, resulting in a squishy brake feel.

Any suggestions?

Sorry for not being clear.
Its the spacers between the cups im missing, and was missing on the omega crankset too.
My BB is 68mm wide. I read that this requires 1x2,5mm spacer on NDS and 2x2,5mm spacers on drive-side?

And on a side note i dont really see what the spacers function is?

I have just bought a fsa k-force crankset for megaexo BB, but have met some difficulties installing it.
On park tools guide for installing it, i need some spacers on each side of the bottom bracket. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/external-bearing-crank-systems-hollowtech-ii-megaexo-giga-x-pipe-x-type-campagnolo-ultra-torque

These wasnt included, as i bought the crankset used. So i guess i will have to buy them at my LBS. But how important is the spacers?

When i removed my Omega crankset, there wasnt any spacers. And the crankset was mounted on the bike when i bought as new. So is the spacers really necessary? Or was the omega installed wrong in the first place?

Just bought a used aerospoke. But the bolts were missing. At first i thought it was for quickrelease, but i googled and found this http://store.aerospoke.com/Components-Bolt_Set.html

Does this mean that the weight isnt on the hubs axle, but on directly on the bolts? And is this really strong enough?

Can i buy any kind of 10mm bolts with "grip washers" in my local hardware shop or is the aerospoke ones special in any way?

Just bought a set of FSA vero's for my current build. I was unsure which BB length i should buy, so i just tested with a 103mm. Unfortunately this gives me a chainline of 48mm.
I've never seen BB's shorter than 103mm, so how can i solve this? It's the same cranks used on a fuji track. So i guess it should be possible to get a track chainline of 42,5mm?

I just measured on a fuji track, with same results. Does this mean the fuji tracks comes with a 5,5mm crooked chainline?

You might find this useful:

http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width

Rim width refers to the inner width of the rim.

Aerowarriors are 24mm wide (outside of the rim) and are double-walled, so prob 18mm or thereabouts inner width. So tyres between 25mm and 40mm wide should be OK. As Sheldon says, though, these sizings are conservative, and you could probably get away with tyres a bit narrower or wider, at a push.

I'm happy to be corrected by anyone with more accurate info.

Oh so 24mm is outside. I checked Halos HP and i looked 24mm up in sheldons chart, and saw 24mm was like crazy wide tires.
Before i buy, can anyone confirm that 25mm tyres will fit on aerowarriors?

What is the min/max tire width for halo aerowarriors?

I think I bought a Cinelli track frame today, I am about 85 % sure it is a Cinelli, but it is branded "Pedal Atleten" and it does not have 3-hole lugs. On the other hand it has got a Cinelli panto fork crown, Cinelli bb and a Cinelli panto (brake) bridge. Furthermore the seatpost lug is typical Cinelli. I have written to Cinelli, but someone in here might be able to help me confirm that the Frame is in fact a Cinelli. Check out the photos:

Pedal Atleten is danish. They're still going: http://pedalatleten.dk/ Maybe they know something. Or else try the danish track bike forum: http://fixie-king.dk/forum/index.php

Hahaha. Didn't realise till i saw this picture.

Somehow this is a bike:

Keen footwear have a few: http://www.keenfootwear.com/wall/shoes/men/pedal

HI LFGSS!

New to the forums, but have been riding fixed for 6-7 months. I own a custom fuji track, a centurion conversion and currently working on a singlespeed beater ride.
Oh and i'm from denmark!