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Great project. What could go wrong?!
Please document the process / aftermath for us!

7800 groupset with 7900 STI's is the tits. New levers are so much more comfortable on the hands (for me, anyway).

Show some respect, he just did 3 weeks of hell for your entertainment.

Care to retract? His position of a "clean athlete" is looking rather shaky at the moment...

At the moment, there's a Conti Competition on there, and I don't think it's wise to skid that about. Also - glue or tape? I was leaning towards tape.

Glue. Always glue.
Conti Competition is probably a bit less durable if you intend to skid a lot... but then, that's slave. so, yea.

a few days for a tub
God! If it's taking you a few days to change a tub you're doing it wrong!
If the rim is prepped properly for the first tubular, replacing the tubular thereafter should be a breeze!
Whip the old one off, one layer of set glue on the tubular (can be glued in advance to speed things up), one layer of tacky glue on the rim, bang the tubular on, pump it up. Easy! 30 Minutes tops!

Oh that's good. They've been sitting in my parts box for about a year - I've never actually used them.

I can't agree more. I have a pair (of the G-Zero version - same brake, different logo) and they function really well! They are a faff to set up with the cable pinch thing, but once they are set up correctly they brake really well, and have quite good modulation.
Careful with the tiny alan head bolts, they round out easily. I've replaced mine with slightly more durable grub screws for a negligible weight gain.

Clinchers for show, tubeless for pros

FTFY

Why that chainring though

Froome feels like he is faster with them, and who is to argue.

My guess is WADA at some point in the future...

Preach!

Wouldn't that make KOPS bike fit difficult to achieve?

A mechanic will probably scold me for this advice, but... pump the tire up to riding pressure, and try to roll it off with all of the force you can with your thumbs. if it comes off, re-glue it. If not, good to go!
Disclaimer; I'm by no means a bike mechanic. I've just glued a few tubulars in my time and this is what I go by.
Edit: in reply to @hma

I think you should do yourself a favour and grab a set of compact drops. Deda Piega are a good, cheap option. Can be had for like 15 pound. You'll be greatful for having decent modern bars.

Lol. Said whilst standing in a glasshouse throwing fistful's of stones...

Srs question. Is there any reason that you decided to persevere with the DT cable stops plus head tube cable guides, when you could've just gotten the builder to add head tube cable stops? The DT cable stops seem a little redundant given that you've had braze ons added etc.

Jesus! That's heavier that any of my aluminium wheels! PLUS the usual carbon brake surface dramas... look nice though.

Ah! Gotcha

2 bidons for 12 miles? Must be thirsty!

I'm in the process of giving 1x a crack too, and have settled on 48 x 11-32.
It give more or less the same total GI spread as 53/39 with 12-25 cassette which I've currently got on one of my road bikes.
But, YMMV and of course will be subject to your local terrain.

Thanks! x

All being well I'll be riding these on my Talbot Frameworks Gravity Shadow

CP build thread?

65 Euro though... cheaper just to get a Woolftooth. Are the Amber-Bikes rings good or better quality?

Are there any recommendations for a 48t 130BCD chainring? Narrow Wide preferred, or 3/32 single speed tooth profile otherwise. Cheers in advance!

Force 1, surely? Or Rival 1 if you so fancy?

Though all of your bikes are lovely / enviable they aren't current projects...

Cool project! I'll follow along!