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You might want to think about £700 for the frame alone - you can't get one of these built any more - Ron died in 2012

One repair method which I had done on an old steel frame was to cut a slot through through BB shell from side to side, on the bottom side creating a slot along the full width. Mechanically close the gap with strong clamps and weld the slot closed and re-tap the threads. Dress off the excess weld and re-paint. It's a skilled job so find a good workshop - but it works.

lovely quality frame - love all the engraving.

All done .............at last
Will be ridden when the sun shines again.

So the wheels are built - thanks to local bike shop - Richard's Bikes - Campagnolo Omega NOS rims and the chorus hubs and Regina ORO freewheel - and Vittoria Rally Tubs.

OK - pedal strip and build to remove old grease. Nuts were very tight and when I finally got them off the lock washer tabs had stripped - so hence recent delay to source some new ones from some very helpful people at Boulder Bicycle, 4949 Broadway St. Unit 103, Boulder, CO, USA

These Campagnolo Monoplanar brakes really are quite amazing - to think they were second best to Delta's.

First slight snag - NOS pedal bearings are very tight and virtually locked on one side. removed dust cap and found cause - for some reason grease has oxidised or polymerised into a consistency of stiff chewing gum. Looks like it is the famous yellow Campagnolo grease but I have never seen this before. I have an old small tub still which must be 40 years old and the grease is still OK. Maybe the pedals have been affected by heat in storage - anybody seen this before? Anyway nothing that can't be fixed, but will mean complete strip down of pedals bearings.

very very nice...........

Bellissimo

Have been sourcing some Gruppo parts - hence pause in postings !
Had made a decision to build with Campagnolo Chorus, and finally I have parts to move things along a bit ...

Head set assembly done now - I like the dirt seal on the bearings...

No head set with the frame so will be fitting a new one. Will need to cobble up a fork bearing cup pressing tool.

Wow - that's superb !
What size seat pin did you use ? 27.2mm ?

That's helpful - they look exactly as mine - I would like to discover the lugs and fork crown make in due course - Reynolds possibly ?
I have to say that I can see why his frames are good - it's absolutely straight, the hub spacings are perfect, and the lug filing is super-fine. Gently thinned-out in the tapers and not a filing error anywhere.

lovely !

No tubing badges, but drop-outs are Columbus - would it be fair to assume Coumbus SL tubes ?

Planning to build new wheels with 27" tub rims on Chorus 1st gen hubs - frame clearances seem OK.

'so that might be a clue - brazed on cable tunnels on the top tube appeared approx when........ ?

only 3 numbers - 349

Going to put back on the road a Ron Cooper frame I have recently acquired. I am inspired by Ron's lifetime of work in the craft of frame making. Does anyone know about frame numbers and year of build ?

No More of these then ........................
http://www.flickr.com/photos/81558062@N05/7472241378/

RIP - WITCOMB , Tanners Hill, Deptford Broadway, London, ES8 4PJ

Bellissimo !!!

You need a slightly longer spoke on the non-drive side because when the wheel is built, the dishing (spoke angle from hub to rim) means there is a greater distance from hub to rim on this side compared with the drive side. ( approx 1-2mm)

It will be a left hand thread.
Best to make a note of the diameter and distance across the flats and purchase a suitable fixed-cup bottom bracket spanner.
It won't saw out because it is hardened steel.

The critcal thing is that the spokes are the correct length so that when tightend up the threaded end of the spoke is using the full thread length in the nipple. Also spoke end must never protude above the glueing surface of the rim. (spoke lengths will be differnt for rear drive side and non-drive side)
Rim tape can be used but I have found that tubs will be ok without tape - provided rim surface is smooth and clean before glueing.