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I've stripped the threads of the rear hub on my Cross check from overzealous resistance braking / underzealous lockring tightening, so am going to have a get new one. Which is really annoying. The current one, which I think came stock with the bike (I acquired it secondhand) is 135mm - their 'ultra new mountain' fixed/free I guess. A short while ago, I swapped the stock crankset for a Sram S300, which has a narrower (GXP) BB, and though it's worked fine, I never could resolve the chainline, which even with a BB spacer was apparently (maths-wise, not eyes-wise) quite a way out.
Buying the 130mm ('road') fixed/free hub instead should bring my chainline back towards something approaching normal/good. I know the Cross check is spaced at 132.5 to accept either 130 or 135mm hubs - so my question is... is there any reason why it would've been specced with the 135 as stock to begin with, or will the road hub be just as good? The only thing I could think of was that perhaps it's better to spread the frame a little from 132.5 -> 135 than to have to close it up - when riding fixed at least, as it might help to keep the axle firmly in place?
The second question is: if I get a new hub, I'm going to get a new rim to replace the bombproof but super heavy touring rim I'm using at present. Thinking of H+Son Archetype, but want to carry on using my 40mm tyres if possible. I've seen arguments for and against going that wide with those rims - does anyone have any thoughts?
thanks for all and any insights!
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Hi, I wonder if anyone can help me decide what to do with my Donohue...
It was set up singlespeed when I bought it, but came with the original Dura Ace groupset (minus brakes) ready to reinstall if necessary - apart from someone had ground off the downtube shifter bosses, which is really annoying. I'm quite keen to try it geared, but to do it properly would mean having bosses brazed back on. There's a guy locally who will do this - and I think used to work with Paul Donohue perhaps - but then it'd need repainting, so it's a potential money pit.
So, I have a few options:
(a) keep as is, maybe swap the rear wheel out for a fixed/free one I have sitting around, and ride it singlespeed / fixed;
(b) convert back to geared, get the bosses rebrazed, get the frame repainted, install the DA groupset;
(c) convert back to geared as above, but sell the DA and instead install a more modern groupset;
(d) forget the whole enterprise and sell!The DA groupset is fine but the chrome on the brifters is pretty flaky.
There's some surface rust on parts of the frame which restoring and painting would help to sort out.I really love it, even though I'm not sure it's totally practical, with max tolerances of 25mm or so - I'm pretty much over skinny tyres. But it's super light, fast, the colour is great, the forks are sublime...
oh and my other question: does anyone have any clue what model it'd be? It's a bit of an enigma to me as it features the thin straight forks that I assumed were more common on PD track frames, yet has regular dropouts - and it has standard round-section tubing rather than ovalised. It's 853 throughout (I assume - there's nothing to indicate the forks are any different).
Pics should be here. Excuse the weird angle of both garden and saddle.
thanks, Adam
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I'm selling my trusty Fuji X Pro-1. If you know about this camera, and the Fuji X system already, then you'll know what an amazing camera it is - if not then you should find out by buying it off me! It is hugely versatile, offers complete creative control in a way that other digital compact system cameras and DSLRs don't, and takes pretty fanastic photos. A couple of its unique features in particular stand out - the hybrid electronic / optical viewfinder, which is very similar to a traditional rangefinder in operation, and most of all, the Fuji X lens system which is not only very well built but includes physical aperture rings.
For me, having never been able to get to love digital cameras after shooting film, I gradually arrived on this after owning some of Fuji's more compact versions (X-E1 and X20), and this is so much better.
In very good used condition. Some minor scratches to the baseplate (not through to the metal), and one small scratch to the LCD screen, unnoticeable in use, but otherwise pretty flawless. Will include a battery and Fuji mains charger. Only selling as I've finally upgraded to the X Pro 2.
Photos here
SOLD
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Boy no. 2 wants to move on from his all-purpose bike to an MTB to be able to hit the gnarly berms or whatever with his big bro, so I'm looking for a 24" wheel MTB, hydraulic discs, and ideally rigid forks to keep the weight down (if not, then anything other than basic coil-sprung sus forks).
I'm not flush enough for the fancy Islabikes Creig but want to find something that's not fashioned from pig iron. I was looking at the Orbea MX24 or Vitus Nucleus or something similar: light enough, with decent enough parts.
Does anyone have something that might fit the bill? It is for Christmas...
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@rishi - photos now in the shared album.
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Sorry @amey , it's gone.
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Hi @rishi , sorry, didn't realise I'd missed that out. I'll take a photo when I'm back this evening.
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Thanks @M_V and @atk - that is super helpful. I don’t know why I hadn’t come across that surly info before... I’d certainly done a lot of searching about it. My hunch would’ve been that they were the same hub shell, so it’s good to know that that’s not the case.