Search results for:

That's the kind of kit people might be interested in. Biggest difficulty selling it is making sure it's delivered without damage.

I've been renovating sashes to a greater or lesser degree for 25+ years. I wouldn't trust plastic and tape, I usually use a thin plywood with some batten holding it in. Sanding down can take quite a while if there's a lot of flaking paint. You should probably use Repaircare as it's an epoxy resin that's designed for this job but the starter kit is expensive. Paint with BIN Aqua and Allcoat. I don't think it's something I would necessarily be able to get done in 2 days and I have all the tools and experience. I might also have to operate to a higher finished standard because people are paying me.

If you don't have to carry out extensive repairs and you're prepared to work long hours you might get it done in a weekend. Probably not a good idea at this time of year though.

Pictures would help to assess the likely issues.

Maybe not that helpful but I added a sub to some 5" PMC and it stopped me looking for anything else for nearly 10 years.

Had these guys come out to diagnose a boiler problem last week. Good service, nice guys. They are busy fitting boilers this week but I can recommend them on the basis of my experience.

https://arenheatingplumbing.co.uk/

"bare drive" meaning a drive without an outer fancy case. The one you linked to is probably a very cheap drive which might suit your purposes. The kind of drive that will rip Blu Ray costs a bit more. You might not need that facility. The OWC Mercury case is decent and you can fit a lot of different drives in it.

Like others have said a wooden dowel can sometimes fix this problem. PVA the hole if it's dusty and shape a cone out of a bit of wood and hammer it in. You want it to be tight as possible without cracking the surrounding wall, that can be a bit tricky. A fairly soft pine works well. I do pilot the hole usually as it can help stop the plug splitting. Sometimes I'll try it without piloting to see how the wood might react.

I've had some success with this method but occasionally it doesn't work.

Based on what I can see from the photo it looks pretty decent.

Remove the beading completely and replace the whole pieces, not worth splicing anything in for the cost of complete pieces.

If you use repaircare you can just cut out any rotten wood and use soft or hardwood pieces to save on the resin. It's probably worth the price of the starter kit to splice some hardwood in with the resin.

Paint with Zinsser Aqua BIN primer and Allcoat. I tend to double up on primer/undercoat and top coat so 4 coats 2 of each.

After wearing out a few I got the OWC Mercury case, then you can get a bare drive. Read speed is probably more important if all you are doing is ripping CD’s but if you have any blu ray you want to read there’s a smaller list of drives that will work with the software you need to rip them.

If you use Apple Music to rip them you will probably get a percentage with audible problems because apple doesn’t error check the rip results. DbPoweramp is usually cited as the best ripper for mac and that’s been borne out in my experience ripping 1000’s of cd’s.

With the current state of tech I would probably just spend the money on a streaming subscription but a few years ago it still seemed worth doing.

I’d probably go with Leyland hard wearing eggshell over Leyland primer. The cheapest option would be primer only and that’s what I’ve had on my workshop stairs for years.

Yes it can be done but lathe and plaster can be tricky because the lathe tends to deflect rather than allow a screw to get a grip (even if a screw grips it can easily split the lathe). You could use a bracket that allows you to fix to the wall and ceiling or run a batten around the join between ceiling and wall. There might be a joist in the ceiling where it meets the wall, sometimes worth finding out direction and position of joists and lathes before you worry too much about alternatives. Could be easy or near impossible depending on your house.

If it’s plasterboard some toggle type fixings should do it or you might easily find a joist as the plasterboard will be fixed to something at the edge of the room.

Poor adhesion due to it being overly thin or dusty

Not aware of anything like a high build auto primer. You can use a fine filler (Toupret do one) but it can cause some issues.

Probably a combination of paint too thick and surface not keyed entirely. Looks like you have some bleed through from knotting on the low right side of that photo. To avoid that you would need to use cover stain or b.i.n. Aqua from Zinnser (or similar from a different manufacturer). Cover Stain is oil based and B.I.N. Aqua is expensive though.

From the look of the joint in your photo you could get better results with a mitre block. [https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-wood-mitre-box/7454V?

You can get great results with a guillotine but the cheapest ones are still expensive. Hand operated mitre saw can work if you set it up accurately. Hand saw with a mitre block is the cheapest way, probably better than a circular saw.

Another vote for Puma regarding grip. I like the shoe as well but the grip is way better than the Asics or Nike I can compare them to.

I have to do a fair bit of this kind of thing but I can't carry lots of different types and sizes. I've come down to a few sizes that cover a lot of situations. I get Hospa screws from Hafele but they're available all over.

The brilliant bikes video covers the measurements. It's very close to the original.

if every Samsung & iPhone was prepped the same there could be a mass extermination event on a scale unimaginable.

Taking that a step further. When AI can build factories and implement this kind of thing it will really help it to keep the population in line.

Or you want to easily transport bikes to an off road destination and ride about for a while.

They've probably been using 'burner' pagers of a specific type so they've introduced them to the supply chain and waited for enough of them to be in service.

Reluctantly agree it's a cunning plan.

85% here. Screen accuracy must have something to do with it.

I've had a Kreiga for 12 years and it's pulled apart at some zip seams so I'm not sure it's a lifetime purchase!

Cut a piece out of the ceiling. Try and find the joists and cut the plasterboard in the middle of the joists. Cut a square (the width of the joists) with a multitool or box cutter and keep it to put in afterwards.

It's a pain but better than taking up tiles.

There are a few considerations with exterior power that make it difficult to give advice online.

If you are adding a new circuit then it's a requirement to notify building control. So a registered electrician is a sensible route to take. They will check the Zs, RCD/RCBO operation to ensure the circuit is safe.

If you are extending an existing circuit you still need to check the breaker will operate in any fault condition. With the size of gardens in London that's not likely to be an issue unless the circuit you're extending is close to its maximum Zs. You should still check RCD operation and Zs though.

Armoured cable comes in different varieties. You should be connecting the earth to the exterior metal sheath of the armoured cable but you can have an earth in the cable as well. Hence the need to check the Zs to make sure that a fault to earth will operate the breaker.

You shouldn't clip the wiring to a temporary fence. Wooden fencing panels could be considered temporary compared to the lifespan of armoured cable. It is designed to be buried but it needs to be deep.

It used to be easier to do what's being suggested and no regs existed to complicate the approach. I've worked on installations that didn't even have RCD protection because they were installed by builders pre the introduction of Part P.

With the requirements for testing I'd probably ask a registered electrician to install it unless I had all the tools for installing and testing it myself.