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Fixie. Almost baby blue. Not gorgeous.

Wonder if anyone here has the sartorial know-how to help me make a decision...

I'm getting two tweed suits made for a wedding, and have quotes from Norton & Townsend and Hackett bespoke (Sloane Sq.) which are virtually identical. Anyone got any feelings as to which has the better reputation for these kinds of thing?

Cheers!

Kitty needs a brother to spark him up

They have a great rep, but even 6k is a stupidly large amount of money.

Why so expensive, I thought you could get these new for ~6K?

Mention of dolan is obviously enough to paralyse the meme thread for >24h. Impressive.

By way of encouragement, this time last year, a family member spent 2 months in intensive care with swelling on the brain. Every time they tried to bring him round, he lashed out and cursed, and we were fearing the worst, but we just had to be patient. When his brain had rested enough, there was no lasting neurological damage. Praying for the best!

Why do they all have the same generic weights-warrior physique as well?

I'd hardly call 9.9kg 'weight weenie'

Just make sure you have checked and double checked the lockring thread direction before you start smashing at it with cold chisel and hammer. That 1st one looks like you might be better off with a big adjustable spanner. If you have access to a vice, even better. Just grab the flats in the jaws, then you can rotate the frame to get lots of leverage. That's my favourite method.

If all else fails (as it has once for me) you can VERY carefully use a dremel to cut through most of the lockring and then it will just snap off when you hit it with the chisel.

I've asked the old man (Oxford 1st, taught Classics for 20 years and used to set national Latin exam papers), and I'm assuming he knows his stuff. He reckons the best translation is "tempus imago." Take it or leave it.

My old man's a classicist. I've sent him a text.

Both JIS and ISO are square taper, they just have differing dimensions which is why a set pair of cranks will sit different distances out on each. It sounds like your cranks and BB are both JIS, which would mean that likely culprits are:

• You haven't torqued the crank bolts to the right value.
  
• The BB is installed the wrong way around
  
• The spindle size is the wrong length.
  
  

Have you done a sanity check to make sure the spindle is the length that you meant to order?

Wise advice. It's much better to learn the inevitable mistakes of a first build with cheap components.

I guess if you love running and hate cycling but your knees are ruined, you might feel it was worth the indignity of being strapped into an overgrown baby walker.

You will get a little bit of adjustability by tightening more or less, but this is not advisable as you can damage your components. You don't want to tighten so much that you initiate fatigue cracks or stretch out the taper in the crank. Usual torque figures are somewhere in the 32-39nm range.

On the question of removing a chainring, you can, but will need to space with these otherwise the bolts will not tighten properly:

http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/id-outer-chainring-item153898.html

You can usually mount the remaining ring on the side of the spider which gives the better chainline if you're doing a beater job, though putting it inboard may not be aesthetically pleasing.

That looks a LONG way outboard to me. Here's a collection of common mistakes when doing a 1st build, all of which are easily doable, but after you have done them once, hopefully you won't make the same mistakes again:

• BB spindles come in different lengths (from close to 100mm to over 120mm)
  
• BB spindles come in different tapers (ISO and JIS)
  
• BB cups come in a variety of different sizes and thread directions (English, French, Italian...)
  
• Cranks almost always specify the length they need for correct chainline (particularly crucial if you are running fixed/ss). It is highly unlikely that just whopping any old BB and cranks together is going to be acceptable.
  
  

I'd suggest that you swot up here:

http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

Sam

don't get it...

Takes almost all the weight off the feet, so you are essentially just using your toes to provide forward motion, and not impacting the ground with every step.

Dibs 3

^ Tiagra is the best equipment that Shimano make? Well you learn something new every day,

I've done this before and it worked OK, but I think the thickness left on the bridge is probably the only possible concern: others may well have ideas on this. I'd have thought there probably won't be enough length on the bolt for 2 nuts unless you cut the shim one down, but that's a quick job with a hacksaw. Hope you get on OK!

Can you not get a second recessed nut, drill the seatstay bridge all the way through, then thread the extra nut backwards onto the spindle to shim it out?

That De Mayo here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221013479184#ht_990wt_1397

Is listed using the same photos that were used when the frame was sold here a year ago (almost certainly to the current seller): http://www.lfgss.com/thread68057.html

I've asked the seller a question about this, but should this be a cause for suspicion?