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Is this still available by chance? was it really only 52cm toptube ctc? what was the steerer tube length?

Hi, I have to be more precise: I am really not looking for a square (like 57x57 ctc/ctc) frame or something close to square, the top tube must be clearly at least 2-4 cm (ctc) shorter, i.e something like 54-55cm ctc top tube and 57-58cm ctc seat tube (and at least 15,5cm steerer tube).
My girlfriend had such a frame (the Rob Telfer, combined with a 50mm stem!) and it was absolutely perfect for her as a geometry to be used in urban traffic. As said, unfortunately it was stolen.

Yes, pictures would be great!

I had a Rob Telfer frame just like that, which was unfortunately stolen. Actually these "T-Rex" frames appear from time to time. Most extreme that I own is a 53x60,5cm

Wanted: 57~58cm (ctc) classic 1980s steel road frame with SHORT toptube (53~55cm), with nice tubing (ideally Columbus SL/SLX or Reynolds 531 or similar)

PM me please or send a mail to magnusjetski@gmail.com
Cheers

I guess with "global" they mean their imports. Those forwarding services are crap, much too expensive. Probably ok if you want to buy something very valuable like a computer or a camera.

So, who in here is from the US and would be able to receive a small parcel for me and forward it to Berlin, Germany? That would be so awesome. It's about a jacket that I cannot find anywhere else than in a Canadian online shop (http://www.bricksandbonds.ca) which unfortunately only ships to the US and Canada.

I would also be fine with someone from Canada, but I think the chances are higher that one of you is based in the US.
Let me know!
Cheers
jetski

Ok, I resolved this. If anyone has the same issue, here's my recommendation: the ST-M567 from the 1996 Shimano LX which is for 3x8 (or 2x8) gears but still was made for Canti brakes which means it works with road brakes (as levers designed for V-brakes will not work!):

The gear indicator can be removed easily, and then it's the smallest, least handlebar estate consuming shifter/brake combo that works well with a narrow-handlebar/riser equipped road bike setup. Much smaller than the only other alternative which would be the 1994 XTR (ST-M900), and with a very minimalistic, timeless shape I think, reminds me a bit of Paul levers.
Bars are going to be the Nitto B220 with the previously mentioned Controltech Terminator 2x20mm extensions so it's probably going to be 520mm in the end.
Hope thats helpful for someone.

Any difference to the Nitto B220? as those are actually 1cm longer than the mini me?

You got me wrong, I think those risers in the link might be slightly too short!

Anyone ever tried these 2x 20mm handlebar extensions? might do the job

Hi, after riding singlespeed for a long time I am building a bike with gears again.

But, I need a riser (old, stiff back) and I want the cockpit to be very narrow. I know I won't be able to maintain the 42cm width that I have on the Nitto B260AAs that I typically use, but I want to find out how narrow I can keep it.

I think what helps is having a shift/brake lever combination as they consume less clamp width compared to separate brake levers and shifter pods, and as I am using road brakes, I will have to look into what the mid 90's Shimano range was offering. Ideally the bike will have 2x8 gears, probably 600 Ultegra front/rear derailleurs. Is the XTR ST-M900 the only shift/brake lever combo that has 3x8 gears, no ugly gear indicator and is ok with canti/road brakes? Or did I miss one?

What I do not want is thumbies. If I use gears, it must be the proper way, Rapidfire style.

Also, I am not sure about the risers. These look quite close to what I need, but the brand is chinese unknown. Essentially I need a 22.2 riser that has a very narrow, steep rise (middle) section that does not consume too much width on its own, which would be the problem with most normal MTB risers. The Nitto B220AA would be good, but I think it's too short in total (480mm will probably not be enough to fit grips and shift/brake combo?). Perfect thing would be a Nitto B220A in a width like 520-540mm, i.e. with a (straight) grip area of 160-170mm on each side.

Let me know your thoughts!

~ around 400€, which also included blasting and ding-smoothing with silver solder

actually I would love to give it a really crazy paintjob (like a fade), but not sure who could do it in Berlin

bjf, let me guess, you are a quite small chap, right? And you have no idea about big boys geometry?

Orłowski isn't just anyone. He's one of the most regarded european framebuilders of the last decades, and has built many frames with a similar geometry, and for a reason. It's just obvious that you have no clue what you are talking about. Worst starting point to leave comments like yours.

The only thing thats dog shit is your attitude. Why don't you just leave. We don't need this kind of narrow-mindedness here

You sir, don't get it.

(actually funny that he thinks he knows more about framebuilding and geometry than Orłowski)

Hey guys, I am looking for a steel (!) gravel frame, must be disc compatible. Something like a Brother Kepler Disc or similar.

Size: medium to large

Please PM directly to magnusjetski@gmail.com or post here
Best
jetski

Wanted: 30.0mm seatpost clamp, like Salsa Lip Lock or the likes

Black preferred.

Please email directly to magnusjetski@gmail.com

Cheers

Wanted: Shutter precision PD-8 dynamo disc hub, 32h, black

Please email to magnusjetski@gmail.com!

It's not as simple as that. Those typical ~720-730mm bars have a grip area of around 200mm. If you have shifter pods, you will need 170-180mm of grip area, i.e. you cut max to ~680mm, not much won. But it would be possible to imagine a narrower bar with tighter bends. Those 730mm have very relaxed, smooth curves, not very space saving.

cool. I think that steel gravel bikes are the perfect platform for a mid motor like the Bafang, because the frames are usually very strong and can deal with the extra stress that you have with a motor, same for the brakes, having disc brakes will be a good choice with all the extra speed and power that comes with the motor. The Bafang is nice because there is a great third party app out there to hack all the parameters and adjust it exactly how you want it, all you need is a Bafang to USB cable

Thanks, actually looking for at least 2-3" (50-70mm rise). The BLB Big Smoke OS Riser Bar with 76mm rise is a bit like that, but it's quite wide, too. In the BMX/dirtjump world are some more, but rarely 31.8mm.

this excites me immensely

amey: irony?

Another thing I'm wondering: why do gravel bikes never come with suspension forks? Wouldn't it make sense, just like on XC mtbs?

Would really appreciate to get some input, especially on the "risers on gravel bike" thing! Realised that the NITTO B801AA might be a better choice, but it gets me into the ~700mm width again.
Is there a (high) riser with 31.8mm clamp in the ~600mm range? Googled for some hours but without success

Hi,
thought about sharing my newest project with you, and asking for some input:

I just bought a used black 62cm Twin Six Rando frameset for 240 quid on Ebay:

It's going to be something I have thought about for quite some time:
A gravel/CX-like bike with 8 or 9 speeds and a Bafang BBS01 250W motor, and unlike most gravel bikes, it will not be set up with road handlebars, but with risers. This is how the Twin Six Rando normally looks: https://vimeo.com/192194084

The bike will be used mostly on car+bike holidays, going to places like Italian alps, maybe also north european highlands and the likes, where I want to drive to trailheads and then do remote singletracks. The motor will be there to assist on long uphill sections, and because I am old and lazy ;-)
I might be also considering using the bike for bike-only holidays, then maybe with more racks added.
I already own the motor but never had the bike for it. I once mounted it on a classic road frame, but it doesn't make much sense, so I am really happy that the Rando is finally a good home for this motor with it's more beefy steel tubing and disc brakes.

Whats a bit strange is that the Twin Six Rando that I bought is described as "62cm", but there is no 62cm on their website mentioned. Anyway, as the head tube is 20cm, that's good and 58cm top tube is not too long, too. Actually, I am very much like psee and his Orlowski allroad builds, in that I am someone who needs short reach and super high stack, due to a back surgery in the past, and still having some back issues. Therefore, my idea is to run this build not with road handlebars, but with a short stem (40-50mm) and risers. The short stem will reduce the reach, which is a bit too much with a 58cm toptube, and the risers will add some more stack (which I can't have enough of, even considering that the frame that I have bought has some extra length left on the fork steerer).
What I am wondering is: I am VERY used to riding ~40-42cm Nitto risers in the city. I really don't get along with typical +700mm MTB/CX risers, and I am wondering what a good solution would be in this build? Also considering that I need a bit more grip space as I have to fit at least one shifter pod. Maybe a Nitto B267? That would be 52cm, 10cm more than I am used to, and it has a 31.8mm clamping area. Maybe combined with a Thomson 40mm elite stem. Let me know if you have other ideas.

Here's a quick and dirty mockup, let me know what you think! (the motor not added yet):

Normal twin six rando:

My sketch (see attachment):

just found a Twin Six Rando on ebay for 240 quid, so I'm fine now. I like it actually more than the All City Macho Man which was my favourite before, because it has 42mm tyre clearance compared to 38mm on the All City.

https://vimeo.com/192194084

PM'd you.

Frames that I would like, just to name some examples, are Brother Kepler Disc, All City Macho Man and Nature Boy, Twin Six Rando, and that mentioned Ritchey Swiss Cross.