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You could take a file to the drop out and enable the axle to take a position that ensures the wheel is lined up at the brake. However, if you wanted to take a more longterm view, you could check the frame to see whether it's true (see Sheldon Brown's piece of string method for that) and also check that the drop outs are aligned (probably need yer LBS for that unless you have the right tools). If there's something seriously misaligned with the frame, then I'd be thinking about changing it - bent/crashed aluminium will have lost a lot of strength and could fail.
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Agree with ^ re getting a cartridge bottom bracket - cottered stuff is not good to work with.
I've known some people who had trouble keeping the threadless bbs tight, and they ended up creaking a lot. You therefore might wanna think about picking up a threaded one for your thread directions without much trouble (as I have done). Just make sure your axle length is right. Should be around 108mm, but best to check with Sheldon Brown or other lfgss'ers who've had more experience with single speed options (plus it can differ depending on the new cranks you procure).
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Trees - it depends a lot on how many miles you do and in what kind of conditions. Lowish mileage in dry conditions, you should be fine for at least 6 years between servicing. Anywhere near the sea, double the frequency. Wet and muddy, double the frequency. The condition they came to you in will have an impact too - if they're in lousy condition, there may be pitting to the balls and races and therefore you'd need to up the frequency. Dunno about paying for the servicing - it ain't hard to do it right as long as you have the right tools, and with the older hubs, that's not too much of an expense.
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Just to let everyone know, www.bikeroutetoaster.com is back up.
Now sporting a new interface and looks like much more cool stuff going on under the hood - eg routing to avoid hills; user-defined gradient smoothing.
BikeRouteToaster was hands down the best route planning website (with upload to a Garmin device) I found and I tried loads and loads of them. When it went into hibernation a couple of years ago, I ended going with Bikely.com, but the directions tended to glitch on my Garmin 705.
Toaster's interface looks a little buggy, but just hit F5 to refresh and it sorts itself out. I'll test out a couple of routes and report back.
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Garneau shoes received. Great comms, well packed, quickly despatched and dare I say, a fragrant little package. Even better, they're a stonkingly wonderful fit for me!
William1984 is obviously the kind of guy I'd want around if I was in a plane crash in the Andes or on the run from the Gestapo. He'd get shit done and although he probably wouldn't take a bullet for a pal, he'd probably hang around to make sure the body got buried and had a couple of twigs to mark the grave. Maybe he'd even stomp the sniper if he got a chance. Solid, recommended.
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Who breaks and reassembles the chain on the bike? You? Do you really know how to do this?
It's easy to damage a chain when removing a rear wheel and letting it drop out of the dropouts and swing downwards, torqueing the chain nastily.
If the chain has "magic links" (ie you can join the chain without using any tools), then that's usually a weak point in the chain.
KMC are a reputable brand of chain, so mebbe you'll fare better now.
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Err, that sounds like you're hoping people will post loads of ass pics, non?