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IPV2 50W
It's bulky. I haven't tried it but I'm told that the IPV2 Mini is good too, and it's a bit smaller...
Just got a ZNA30 clone too ant that's rather nice too!

There shouldn't be any compatibility problems...

Just bought another iStick after losing mine last week and it works well with my new ErlPrinz clone:

The mobile version has improved so much! It had been a while I hadn't used it on my phone and it is very good! Nice work!

You've won the thread.>
Agreed. Move along

I think it looks rad as it is. How about a quill stem? That stem looks a tad too thick compared to HT and forks
[Edit] Didn't see all following post, but I'm with Acliff

That looks ace! I'd put a black stem and seatpost but that all looks extremely tidy as it is.
And the decals look fine.

Awesome build! Looking very good indeed!

Such a lovely bike! That looks like a lot of fun.

you're right! 3.8 seems to be nominal voltage for most batteries. 4.2 is fully charged 18xxx battery. Apologies!

@apollo is that with DNA and Kayfun? What VG ratio?

3.3v is rather low.
4v to 4.2v is normal battery level for almost any charged e-Cigs. The article does mention 5v as a problematic voltage, and it was already known that high temperatures do create formaldehyde and acrolein which are very carcinogenic. But this problem only occurs when the voltage is far too high, like 5v, or when the resistance or the ecig are faulty, but it really tastes awful so if it doesn't taste "caramelized" or burnt, you should be fine.

Stunning frame! Looking forward to the build!

I just got an Atlantis, and I have a Mini, and they're both so nice, I might just try the Nautilus as well. I'm also tempted by the Joyetech eGrip when the RBA base is released. I heard good things and after using the iStick for a while, I find it a bit hard to go back to big mods... How does the DNA fares @apollo? Is it that good?

That is extremely nice!

@apollo That's nice! I am a tad jealous...

Exactly those indeed! I didn't want to link to the Bay. I'll get picture when I can...

Edit: You can see them in action there

I use them both ways: shortening reach on the front and lengthening at the back

I had the same problem on my last project, and resorted to use AICAN Aluminum C Brake Shoes on my long reach tektros. They're pads housings with a 10-15mm offset. They're probably not the best solution but I haven't had any issues and I'm sure you could get similar pads housing cheaper... At least cheaper than a pair of new brakes.

Do you get the heinous "Check Atomizer" on your DNA30?
Technically, the positive post, i.e. the little flat head screw is adjustable on Kayfuns. I can't think of anything else...

I'd get rid of the paint on the negative post? and then I'd have a look at the spacer/insulator under the positive post... Could it be that the 510 adjustable screw isn't making contact? I thought that a 1 meant no connection rather than very low resistance/short? I don't have a ohm meter so it's just a wild guess

They're pretty much the same as far as presentation is concerned: the cotton fibres are oriented the same way. It's the pad format that makes them easier to use: you just cut/tear a strip of the appropriate width and thread it in your coil as opposed to faff about trying to make an uniform wick out of tangled cotton... I bought Bacon Pads because they were the only available stuff in my shop but Muji pads should be exactly the same...

I bought a organic cotton ball thingy that was half the price and half the weight of that a year ago and haven't gone through it yet. But as I said, it's easier to use and I have less dry burns or flooding issues. It is expensive but worth it IMO; I'd happily spend 100 quids on a nice mechanical mods so it's not a major expense compared to some of the stuff I bought in the past... It makes wicking easy, so it's a justified expense for me. Taste slightly better once you broken a new wick in too.

Depends on what juice I use; it varies from a few days to a couple of weeks...
On that note, I can't recommend cotton pads enough like Bacon Cotton; I started using them a couple month ago and it makes rewicking much easier once you know how much cotton to strip.

As far as airflow is concerned, it really depends on the device you use. For example, in the clearomizers department, the Kanger Aerotank and the Mini nautilus both have Airflow control.
The popping/Firzzing is normal; it's the sound of the liquid being vaporized.
I don't usually press the button too early personaly, and it might not be recommended as it could make your resistance dirty?

I went to the custom route because I wanted something with more vapour and taste. Although there are now a lot of clearomizers available that are on par with my first rebuildable atomizers.
I'd recomend Nautilus with BVC resistance, it's very impressive!

Unless you have some liquid with a high VG Ratio, I wouldn't recommend direct lung inhale...

I usually smoke my daily e-cigs like a normal cigarette, i.e. Mouth to lung, since none of my daily atomizers have a high enough airflow to do so.

I have a couple of drippers with high airflow that I only use with 90/10 VG/PG liquids (no nicotine) and even that is a bit harsh when direct lung inhale (hookah-style).

You could just go for an Aerotank Mega; it uses the same resistances and, as far as I am concerned, delivers the same taste/performance.

I just bought a Eleaf iStick, and it's quite the amazing little device... I still use my mech mods, but the size and battery life are very impressive with a nautilus mini. Well recomended!

Silly question, but have you checked that the 510 adjustable screw wasn't too deep for your ato on your roller? I happened on my Dingo and took me a while to figure out...