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What would be the advantage over a purely cable driven brake?
they were played with sometime in the mid to late '90s and some companies still produce them but i believe with MTB "V" brake pull compatibility.
http://www.szleechi.com/products_d.html
even with ABS !
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there is the drop out, not at this moment planning on using any tensioners BUT the frame came with some and has cut-outs to locate the bolt, but using then would effect the rear hub bearings as they would not be pressing fully on the spacers.
So it may be back to the drawing board for a shorter axle but with screw in stub axle ends to allow the tensioners to be used.
but lets see how Mk1 goes first.
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the hub is a Diatec 20mm front MTB hub, but any 20mm front hub will give the same results.
the axle material..... I really should have mentioned it to them when disusing the sizes and tolerances. well I forgot but it ended up as a not bad error as they used some chrome steel from a hydraulic piston assy (like you see on the front of a JCB).
Note the axle finishes inside the frame the 2 Allen bolts are what site in the dropouts.
VĂ©lo just a generic frame with Horizontal drops. Well they cab be swapped out for vertical if wanted.
more pics later.
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TBH sounds like something is bent.
can you clean the inside of the steerer and the quill stem and then insert till friction is met and look for contact points.
so marker or engineers blue could help identify the contact points. might not help to much as i know they are a nice snug fit so it may not be easy to see.
the other option is try another fork for fitment.
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cheers Hippy not seen that topic. But i was looking to see more of an issue with bearings etc..
the axle is the easy bit. Lathe and some ally stock sorted. make up a couple of spacers 5 and 10mm and job is a good one.46mm chain line and a couple of allen headed Bolts screwed into the axle sorted.
cheers.
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wheel building tomorrow.