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then some test rides

Shimano were there

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First visit to the out sales area.

worked it out.

does not like 20 as it says it is happy with.

I think if there are lots of images sometimes they get marked as spam.

i was thinking that. as when i first tried it said no to the number i had included and said 20 was the max. but it will not post that either.

and it will not post in here either.

better recheck the posting rules.

Sign in.

First visit to the out sales area.

then some test rides

Shimano were there

as was Sram

ok just tried again and up pops a message saying that the post will not appear until approved by a mod.

odd.

must be to do with links and images.

Ok that is strange. i wonder why two earlier post have not appeared yet.

just wondering.

Sign in.

First visit to the out sales area.

then some test rides

Shimano were there

as was Sram

Malaysian but in the days of the internet many people forget about popping into the LBS.

well built the wheels today

just need to sort out the bars.

Tape or grips?

and a bit more friction on the rear axle bolts.

then look to connecting and bleeding the brake.

jesus, beefy! what frame is that? can we get a side on picture to see how the tension works?

Mmm need to make something or increase the friction on the drop outs.

thanks for the ish heads up.

You seem to be labouring under a misapprehension. Larger rotors actually decrease the calliper mounting bolt shear load (and indeed the wheel ejection force, for traditionally positioned callipers) for a given amount of deceleration.

correct.
a bigger lever reduces the load. but it also increases the load.

it all depends on where you are standing. and the mounting holes stay in the same place.

so what sort of bike is it going to be? singlespeed/fixed? drops / risers? looks like it's gonna be interesting.

fixed, and the bars are not risers or drops or bull horns.

usage is a very short commute and to the pub and back.

i need to get the wheels built and then i can try out bars ( of the cycle type) before committing. Dont forget that to change the bars/stem/headset will require a brake bleed! so I need to get it right before bleeding the brake so there maybe a few trips without the brake working.

That's why they put them on the back of the fork leg. The earliest CB750s had the calliper in front of the fork, but since then it's been one way traffic. The problem is that putting the calliper behind the fork pushes the wheel downwards when you apply the brake, which is fine with through axles but it is trying to push at an open door with conventional dropouts. As nicklouse points out, well documented cases of properly installed wheels being forced out are few and far between, but nobody who understands mathematics would argue that it isn't an accident waiting to happen, and one which can be easily avoided by an existing alternative design which has several corollary benefits and practically no downside for the majority of riders who don't need to repair punctures under race conditions.

and the funny thing the fork that the wheel came out of was on a Tandem.

PS the main reason i did it was that I could, and the forks were the original ones that came with the frame but were also threaded headset fitting, they are now Ahedset fitting.

MT that's way too technical
i have an easier question - what frame is that? :)

Bratavus cant remember the model, but quite a generic Taiwan frame form a few years back, the wheel and nexus hub went on an other bike and i attacked the rest of the bits.

See i remember a formula disc brake I saw pretty much just as discs were starting to appear in DH. Think it was the first bike i ever saw with one. It was mounted to the front of a rigid fork and I always assumed they were better off mounted to the back of the leg so that when applied the force pushed them towards the forkleg, rather than pulling away from? is that not a factor?

I missed that Formula version the ones i was thinking of was a dual set up with the "mounts" bolted around the fork legs ( to use a road font mech term they were band-ons) I think the fork was an RS.
As to the forces yep there is always the opposite and equal force to consider.
When i was putting it together i did think about the top mount bing ripprd out.

but then there are some nutters out there running alloy bolts holding their IS mount caliper/adaptors onto their DH forks, and when they get too bent they just replace the bolts.

but as this will not be going that fast and the forces will not be that great only 160mm more of an emergency brake for the peds out here. (not to mention my old knees).

It's a different compromise from the traditional position, only really viable with steel forks. The correct solution to the wheel ejection issue is a through axle.

but how many wheels have you come across that have ejected?

yes there are a few that have been documented on the net but the main one did not even have tabs on the fork drop outs.

and those tabs have been there since the year dot.

and i have a nagging feeling that the First disc kit had two calipers on the font of the fork legs. But that was when i was still rigid and cantis and did not believe in suspension.

yes disc mount on the front of the right leg so that a standard caliper can be used and fitting the mudguards is easy. Also it is where I believe they should have been in the first place ,)

hose routing will be internal to the lever.